awe man i just read that sucks hope they come thru. do u mean if u cant ur parting out the motor or the whole car? u know i got top dibs on the old eco. and i wanna call dibs on any blower parts that u may have.
all parts will be going to a worthy cause.n trust when i say the parts would be upheld to the highest regaurd in there places with me
Sucks man, I really hope zzp comes through and does something to take care of you. Id to see all that hard work (and money) go down the drain.
ZZP sucks I doubt theyll cover it. Thats just from my previous experience with them.
But I really hope they do. Sad to see a fresh engine go down like that.
Sucks to hear, Ryan. I say toss the L61 back into it for the time being. You know the swap works so just toss a set of rods and lower CR pistions in the LE5 and try it again later.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, July 29, 2010 5:50 AM
Boost > N/A
180hp in 1989 or 260hp in 2008, you decide. Quad < Ecotec
hands off my eco wayne, I need it for a build...
Ryan - you got my number if I can help let me know
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
sorry phil that eco is MINE been set since way back in the day when this build was just a idea.
Tinks ur already boosted let me step up
All i need is his S/C, you can have everything else.
Boost > N/A
180hp in 1989 or 260hp in 2008, you decide. Quad < Ecotec
hmm but that leaves me sc less still. maybe toss urs in maybe,lol
If you can wait until i get the other engine together....
M62s go for a couple hundred on CSS.net and ebay.
Boost > N/A
180hp in 1989 or 260hp in 2008, you decide. Quad < Ecotec
^ x2 - you can always find an M62 on css.net.
I still don't know how this will play out. I called zzp and they claimed they never heard of one breaking, so i referenced the Paul K. guy here. (cavillac on ecoforums). The guy on the phone also said there was nothing he could do for me and that i had to email customer support so that they could escalate it to the owner. However he would not give me the owners number to contact directly despite my persistance. They can either come out of this with a reputation of excellent customer support, or I can curse their name on every forum to which i belong until my dying day.
And all i ended up asking for was a complete refund on their springs/retainers, OR a supertech upgrade at no add'l cost. I think that's more than fair considering the damage done. Hell i don't even know if i can use the head or block until a professional looks at it. The piston is in one piece but there is a score where the valve hit, and there is a score at the very top of the sleeve. So the block can probabaly be used, but who knows it's lifetime now. The valve seat is damaged , and possibly the guide. I found an entire LE5 locally for $500 - 25k miles. I'm tempted to start all over and do it right, but the bash is coming up as well as other occasions that cost somewhat (weddings, bdays, ect) + no daily driver. I hate myself for choosing those springs now! The car was so sick!
Cliffnotes - not much is salvageable without additional machining cost. The only free option at this point is to put the L61 back in.
oldskool wrote:^ x2 - you can always find an M62 on css.net.
I still don't know how this will play out. I called zzp and they claimed they never heard of one breaking, so i referenced the Paul K. guy here. (cavillac on ecoforums). The guy on the phone also said there was nothing he could do for me and that i had to email customer support so that they could escalate it to the owner. However he would not give me the owners number to contact directly despite my persistance. They can either come out of this with a reputation of excellent customer support, or I can curse their name on every forum to which i belong until my dying day.
And all i ended up asking for was a complete refund on their springs/retainers, OR a supertech upgrade at no add'l cost. I think that's more than fair considering the damage done. Hell i don't even know if i can use the head or block until a professional looks at it. The piston is in one piece but there is a score where the valve hit, and there is a score at the very top of the sleeve. So the block can probabaly be used, but who knows it's lifetime now. The valve seat is damaged , and possibly the guide. I found an entire LE5 locally for $500 - 25k miles. I'm tempted to start all over and do it right, but the bash is coming up as well as other occasions that cost somewhat (weddings, bdays, ect) + no daily driver. I hate myself for choosing those springs now! The car was so sick!
Cliffnotes - not much is salvageable without additional machining cost. The only free option at this point is to put the L61 back in.
That sounds like the ZZP I know. Its never their fault and even if it was they wouldnt admit it.
Well, they agreed to refund the price of the springs/retainers, i just have to ship them back. Better than nothing, because, hell, stock springs have lasted longer on cammed engines than this.
I need a drop-in spring than can handle 0.436" lift. Apparently supertech isn't it either after doing some reading.
Looks like Ferrera, GMPP, or PSI. Bates is in there too i guess. Suggestions? I don't want to do this again.
Supertech 94lbs springs are suppose to be the same specs as GMR springs.
Boost > N/A
180hp in 1989 or 260hp in 2008, you decide. Quad < Ecotec
oldskool wrote:Well, they agreed to refund the price of the springs/retainers, i just have to ship them back. Better than nothing, because, hell, stock springs have lasted longer on cammed engines than this.
I need a drop-in spring than can handle 0.436" lift. Apparently supertech isn't it either after doing some reading.
Looks like Ferrera, GMPP, or PSI. Bates is in there too i guess. Suggestions? I don't want to do this again.
What's wrong with the supertech springs?
Here's what a broken valve spring does to a 2008 VW touareg V8.........
The motor locked up because the face of the valve broke off and jammed in between the head and the piston so the motor would no longer turn over. The stem of the valve was no where to be found. I put a complete motor in because a $5 part broke. Like $20k was the cost to VW.
13.3 @ 106 mph Cammed
Yea, my piston looks nothing like that. I described it as the piston and valve had a fist fight, and the piston won big time. There is a slight score where the valve obviously made contact, but it doesn't look bad after cleaning it up.
In the GM build book it recommends the bates up level valve spring kit it will accept up to a .500 valve lift. It does not require cylinder head modifications, but does require replacement of the spring seat and the retainters.
part number
spring ESGV002
Retainter ESGV0150
Seat ESGV0065
I'd get some 78lbs Supertechs....lots of people are running them with the blower cam or Stage 2 cam with no issues.
Only issue I know of are mine, with the rocker rubbing on the edge of the retainer, but that seems to only be an issue with mine, so i think the issue is on my end and not with the springs.
newt wrote:I'd get some 78lbs Supertechs....lots of people are running them with the blower cam or Stage 2 cam with no issues.
Only issue I know of are mine, with the rocker rubbing on the edge of the retainer, but that seems to only be an issue with mine, so i think the issue is on my end and not with the springs.
THANK YOU for clearing that up, I have supertech 78lb springs and ryan had me worried about using them with the turbo grind
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
The only reason i shy away from supertechs are the measurements that Airtonics did a while back. The installed height of the supertechs on the eco head is different from how they rate the maximum lift. When they are actually installed, they are more compressed than how Supertech measures them, so some of the available lift is gone. I believe the measurments Airtonics did showed that they were good for ~0.400" lift with like a 0.060" margin for coil bind. Dont quote me on that but its close.
On the other hand, you do have people using them as you said without problems, so they are probably fine. They are a heavy duty spring that you can maybe get away with running closer to coil binid w/o issues.
I'm paranoid after this incident. I KNOW the gmr spring kit is good for 0.499" lift without head modification, so that's how i'm doing it. I'd just rather not have another spring failure down the road - repeat - I'm paranoid after this incident.
I would definitely go with the gmr springs and play it safe.
very sorry to hear this project came to an abrupt end...trust me i feel ure pain.
good luck trying to get ANYTHING from ZZP. i got a free one shipped to my place, but it took 3 weeks to show up. told them it was an extreme rush as the car was stuck out of town at a buddies.
i cant believe they claimed to not know of any other problems. i spent a week argueiing with them for some kind of retrobution. they told me i was the only one who has had problems. perhaps we are not the only 2 who have had problems.
let this be a lesson to anyone buying those springs. DONT!
14.04 @ 101 ALLMOTOR
Paul K wrote:very sorry to hear this project came to an abrupt end...trust me i feel ure pain.
good luck trying to get ANYTHING from ZZP. i got a free one shipped to my place, but it took 3 weeks to show up. told them it was an extreme rush as the car was stuck out of town at a buddies.
i cant believe they claimed to not know of any other problems. i spent a week argueiing with them for some kind of retrobution. they told me i was the only one who has had problems. perhaps we are not the only 2 who have had problems.
let this be a lesson to anyone buying those springs. DONT!
If rumors of how word spreads on the web are any clue, I'd say you two have two things in-common: You're probably the only ones left who want
anything to do with ZZP at this point!
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Two things I know
1 - I haven't seen anyone run these successfully with an aftermaket cam that should work
2 - i haven't heard of them breaking with any stock cam build - which means they are strictly for high revs, not add'l lift
