Aaron Donnelly wrote:Going to start stockpiling parts for this. Gonna order some polyurethane bushings for the front (not sure they make them for the rear). Gonna figure out my lowered suspension issue. Gotta fix the PS leak and clean the engine bay. Oh, and also need new CV axles and front brakes.
PST used to make a whole front end suspension bushing rebuild kit for Jbodies, not sure if they still do though.
Orlen Brown: it isn't the belt squealing. It is the pump itself whining. Almost like it is out of PS fluid and running dry. It is full and doesn't seem to lose any fluid.
Spike J: it doesn't seem they still produce that kit. I know I can get a polyurethane kit from Andy's Autosport.
FWIW - I was able to get poly sway bar bushings for the rear. I did not try and source any others. I can post the part# info if you would like.
Aaron Donnelly wrote:Spike J: it doesn't seem they still produce that kit. I know I can get a polyurethane kit from Andy's Autosport.
Figures, seems after the recession alot of places stopped making parts for alot of different older cars, especially ones from the 70's & 80's except for Fbodies and mustangs. Did happen across
this set on Ebay .
Yeah, that is too expensive for me. The ones from Andy's Autosport are Energy Suspension pieces and much cheaper.
since it is 25 yrs old and no longer requires an emissions test I'm thinking about removing the emissions crap in the engine bay to clean it up a bit. Probably going to work on that later today or tomorrow. I'll have pics up of it later.
You might do a quick check at a local garage before you start yanking away.
2 reasons
1 - Here in Virginia, we don't have emissions tests, but if you are missing original emission equipment is missing, we can flunk the standard state inspection. You might have a similar issue in your area.
2 - A lot of the emission equipment is tied back to the computer, and if removed can at least adversely affect performance. At worst it could trip your CEL. Again, here in Virginia a tripped CEL will flunk an inspection. They got us too, that CEL has to come on upon turning the key, and then go back out again after the engine starts. You can't just put a piece of electrical tape over the CEL, or remove the bulb.
A quick stop by your local garage could save you some grief later on. Just a little heads up!! :-)
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Orlen Brown wrote:You might do a quick check at a local garage before you start yanking away.
2 reasons
1 - Here in Virginia, we don't have emissions tests, but if you are missing original emission equipment is missing, we can flunk the standard state inspection. You might have a similar issue in your area.
2 - A lot of the emission equipment is tied back to the computer, and if removed can at least adversely affect performance. At worst it could trip your CEL. Again, here in Virginia a tripped CEL will flunk an inspection. They got us too, that CEL has to come on upon turning the key, and then go back out again after the engine starts. You can't just put a piece of electrical tape over the CEL, or remove the bulb.
A quick stop by your local garage could save you some grief later on. Just a little heads up!! :-)
Definitely take Orlen's advice here as it being fuel injected and mostly everything run by the computer you unhook one thing it could screw up perfomance, mpg's and possibly reliability. Now if it was carbuerated I'd say go for it but it isn't so be careful what you wish to unhook and as orlen says also check your local & state laws. Just because the car is 25 yrs old or older doesn't always give owners free reign to do what they want if they wish to keep it street legal.
Yeah, there is no inspection here for cars this old. No emissions and no inspection. Nothing will be left open. All vacuum lines will still be closed. I'll check with a garage and see. Was going to follow
the vacuum diagram and make sure I keep all lines still in thier order (just without the can). I appreciate the feedback. Some background on me though. I have half an automotive degree so I'm not necassarily going at anything blind.
Oh, I do have one question though. Are the gauges tied into the ECU?? I want to do a custom gauge setup since the digital dash is crap and doesn't work.
I definitely know if you unplug the MAP sensor - you'll trip the CEL. I did this by accident when I was putting everything back together after a rack replacement.
I believe you can send the 1st gen ECU's into safe mode - which will hurt performance.
I believe there is a sending unit to the ECU for oil pressure - no pressure = no signal and the engine will shut down. There is also one for the IC - either an idiot light or a gauge.
Should be 3 circuits for temp. 1 for the ECU, 1 for the fan relay, 1 for the IC - again an idiot light or gauge.
1 Vacuum line should feed the damper door controls on your heater, so you'll want to keep that one.
I'm thinking there probably won't be too many vacuum lines you'll be able to plug off. You might be able to bypass the EGR.
There is always the possibility, you could toss the factory ECU and go with an aftermarket ECU and then you can dial in exactly what you're wanting. I think PaulZ28 has been in that neck of the woods and could give you some pointers.
I can easy understand your digital dash woes - heard of many a nightmare. I think John Masson is sitting on a very nice Cimirron with the same issues. I not sure if swapping in an IC with the basic speedo & gas guage would be a direct fit, but would be about as an easy solve as you could go. You should be able to get a regular speedo cable when you get the IC - cable ought to fit right in the transmission. If that gauge pack doesn't fit , you'll be looking at a whole dash refit - doable, but not a weekender.
I'm by no means a pro on here, just happy to share my odds and ends
Whatever you discover the the digital dash, I'm sure John would appreciate. I'm kinda getting he is somewhat disheartened with his Caddy :-(
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In short your ecm like ours runs ALL the sensors,emissions equipment.IF you change anything drastic it will def hurt your performance,mpg and how the car will run.IF you change anything go with a high flow cat if you remove and go straight pipe it reduces backpressure and could cause it to run rich or lean.Not saying things cannot be changed but,these ecms do alot based on temps,pressures, and etc.Tired so I may revisit this when I am not toast after working all day
I won't be pluging any vacuum lines thats for sure. I guess its hard to explain what I had planned. I need to get a repair manual for my car. That would help a lot with some of my ideas.
Aaron , you can pick up a GM shop manuals off of EBay for a reasonable price if you are interested!! :-)
I got one for the Cavalier & the Sunbird too!! Got a lot of good stuff in them!!
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I'm definitely getting one that is for sure.
Ok, scrap the idea about the emissions equipment. Most I'll prolly do is replace all the vacuum lines with new stuff. Still looking into my options for lowering it as low as I want.
Tracked my PS leak to the pump. Gotta get a new one soon. Got the car on jack stands awaiting new brakes.
Front brakes are done. Seems I need to bleed them too. Will work on that when the wife comes home and I have someone to pump the brakes for me.
Ok, I have looked into my suspension options as far as I can and with my budget the plan is:
Upgraded struts/shocks
lowering springs (Sprint for example)
polyurethane bushings
wheels and tires.
Power Steering pumps will squeak/ whine, like they are low if you ran the pump low or out of fluid until all the trapped air comes out. May take a week or so. This happened to me after my engine swap.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
I wish that was what was going on with mine. I figured out that it might be the PS reservoir cap causing the leak. The spring is really loose on it and I think it might seep out of the top.
wow man thats a nice first gen. i currently have a 2nd and 3rd gen and i would love to have a 1st to complete the family
