Got the struts out of the car, but poked a little hole in my right outer CV joint boot.
Looks to me like just some clamps once I would get a new boot on, but do I need any special tools to get the old boot off and make it possible to slip the new boot on?
You can get a boot repair kit at most Auto parts stores. It's made to do exactly what you need with no special tools.
You mean I could just patch the hole instead of replace the boot?
It's a small hole at the top of the boot, no big rip or tear.
Just a heads up on the busted boot there. You'll have to separate the shaft from the CV joint to get the boot off and replace with a full one. They used to sell a 2 part boot that you kinda laced together many, many years ago - but it was trash. Be extra careful how much grease you put in there as it will bust the boot to if there is too much of it in there. I had bad experience trying to replace a busted boot many years ago and nowadays just bite the bullet and replace the whole shaft. You get a lifetime warranty that way as well.
.
If the hole is say dime size I recommend using permatex The right stuff gasket sealer! This seals up quick and is well grease,oil,atf,fuel resistant and I have done this in the past on the exact problem being the damage was so limited and fixed.Unless your cv joints are way old and want to upgrade now would be the time to do it.
Get a boot for $5 or so and 2 3-4in hose clamps. When I made hybrid axles a few years ago that's what I did. Problem solved for $10.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
The hole isn't even dime-sized, it's really a pinhole at the top, near the clamp.
No idea how old the boots are, but they all look good (except for this new pinhole), and I know boot and clamps are under $20; do I need a special tool to separate the boot from the shaft?
So this is looking like the axle comes out to replace the boot, lovely...
I tried searching for the CV Joint at both NAPA and Autozone, but came up empty. Then I tried searching for it on the 2008 Mazda 3 and also came up empty.
I also tried searching "drive axle", but that didn't help.
What should I name the part?
Cut or break the old clamps off. Cut the boot off. Go to any parts store. Most of the carry cv boot repair kits or quick boots. The boots are in half and the go over the axle and get clamped on. No need to remove the axle.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Haven't heard much good about those quick boots. Just MHO.
.
There is no need to remove the axle and also if for what ever reason you want to remove it you do not have to disconnect the strut or anything in the suspension. If its the driver side turn the wheel all the way to the right or passenger side then turn to the left and remove the 30mm nut the hit th axle in toward the engine and bam it can be removed without needing alignment. Did this a few times. You can even watch YouTube videos of it. Works on 1st 2nd and 3rd gens and most other cars too.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Orlen Brown wrote:Haven't heard much good about those quick boots. Just MHO.
.
I haven't heard anything bad. For $10-$20 it's worth a shot and 5 mins to install. Just make sure it seals.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Also to save you a headache. Before removing the axle if you break the clamp on the inside boot closes to the tranny then you can pull the axle out of the cup and keep your transmission fluid and output shaft seal good an not have to worry about adding fluid or prying the old seal out and replacing it. They are a pain. Just put a bag or something over he axle to protect it from dirt while working on the other end. Then put a new clamp on it when reinstalling it.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Same process as that. Just remember you should be able to get the axle out by maxing out left or right. You may have to jack up on the control arm so it is level I don't remember but I broke 3 or so axles in one day on my car do to an incorrect body mount so I found a quick way to get them out.
On the inside my car looks like a fighter jet.
Looks to me like the best thing I could do is take Ron's suggestion of permatex and seal the little hole; then if I have a problem, I'll try one of those slip on units.
If the hole is that small that's the way I would go. Get it in black if you can or cover the permatex with a coating of real black 100% Silicone.
The permatex (The right stuff) product is black in color.It sets up quick and cures stupid fast.No other product is necessary because this is by one of the best products imo made for sealing tough leaks,and or areas that the normal silicone sealers tend to leak,peal or fail under pressure.Plus just clean the boot with brake clean first for a debris free surface then apply.Done and let it sit for a day and it will be cured for sure.Easy
So I used that Permatex on the right side where I made the pinhole, looks like it should do fine.
Something told me to take the flashlight and get a better look at the left side...glad I did because I found a big tear in that outer boot. Nobody saw the tear because it is in the fold of the accordion shape of the boot.
I think I'll be going to NAPA on Monday to talk to them about the slip on or two piece boots, as that seems to be the way to go for me. If I have a problem after that, my local mechanic can say "ca-ching" when I visit him.
Well I’ve looked up all I can find about CV boots and kits and split boots, etc.
It appears there is no good solution other than just biting the bullet and getting the job done right. From everything I can find, the split boots always break and are a real mess, so that option is out.
Since I don’t really want to bite the bullet, of course I had an idea to run by everyone here:
On the right side where there’s a tiny hole, I took Ron’s advice ad got Permatex The Right Stuff Gasket Sealer. I cleaned up the area around the hole, put on the goop and I’m sure it will be fine.
On the left side, I found that large tear along the edge of the accordion ripple. Since the car hasn’t gone anywhere and no grease was lost, I know my axle is still fine inside there. I’m thinking I can just use that sealer stuff and it should hold just fine as well.
Any thoughts on that?
Really, that is what I’m going to do to get the car back on the road to get the alignment I need so I can drive it while I get other stuff done, then I can get a real repair done at a later date. I’m just wondering if anyone thinks this repair won’t last long, or if anyone thinks it could last thousands of miles.
Well if the tear is not longer than two or three inches the gasket sealer should hold for a while.However with a lot of flexing it may leak it just varies on the crack and conditions.keep in mind if it gets worse you would just be better off buying a new axle and then you would still have to get the alignment done for a 2nd time.The permatex works great and should last for a reasonable time,but if it were my car I would go ahead get a new axle and be done with the time,expense and a 1 time alignment while working in this area.The pin hole is ok for a good while and see no reason to worry about that one.Just my take and just replaced a cv on my nephews Honda it was toast and grease on everything.Up to you at this point.Look on the thread about mowing I popped a pic of how bad his boot was split almost half way around so lost cause and original axle on his 98.
From my experience those repairs in flex areas never last long. If you don't like the price of a new one you could always go used. Axles should be the same all the way to 3rd gens.
