DSMskyline wrote:Don't forget you also added a length of EXTRA rubber hose to the mix, you basically doubled the rears ability to expand and cause the low pedal feeling.

if a system is fully pressurized, 100 ft vs 50 ft of liquid or air pressure in a cabling setup shouldnt make a difference though...You may have to add a tad more volume of brake fluid to the system when bleeding to fill the extra length, but once pressurized, the brake system doesnt lose or gain fluid...the touch of the pedal should instantly grab unless theres a leak or you have low fluid levels. or am I wrong in the understanding of a pressurized system?


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

He's talking about the rubber line expanding. Like why you replace the rubber with braided stainless.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

so im thinking i have an effed up wheel bearing... i'll confirm this tomorrow

confirmed... wheel bearing was toast... replaced and claimed warranty on the one i had... National Brand Bearings suck... i've killed more of those than any other brand...

Mystic02VA (GME Chat) wrote:confirmed... wheel bearing was toast... replaced and claimed warranty on the one i had... National Brand Bearings suck... i've killed more of those than any other brand...

That's strange, usually National/Moog parts are of great quality. So does your brake pedal feel normal now?

yep... completely normal now... actually it feels a bit better than normal...

Ive gone through so many national wheel bearings... the next bearing i need to replace will be with an OEM one...

I was going through fronts like water until I discovered that the seals werent getting put on/what the seals in the box were for.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

im having all these same issues now and it only seems to be getting worse, this morning i tried to stop an when i did press the brake my backs instantly locked up (i was going 40mph then stopping at a light) when the pedal went all the was to the floor, now i never had the problem of mushy brakes after i installed the rear discs, so i guess imma bleed the brakes first and see what happens, wish me luck lol.



2010 Lonestar Bash 2nd place J-Body Street Class
2011 texas heatwave 2nd place american compact street class

New calipers or old ones? The saturn calipers have a bad habit of the bores the sliders run in rusting up to hell if you dont lube them right or drive the car at least once a week.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

mines a dd and to inform yall my car is down, brake has no stop it all when all the way to floor and idk its making horrible sounds on both front sides, i dont even know where to start lol.



2010 Lonestar Bash 2nd place J-Body Street Class
2011 texas heatwave 2nd place american compact street class

i would think there would be more problems with these since stock our cars have a 10lb residual valve for the rears to keep pressure for the drums and typically on disc brake setups you wouldnt use a residual valve due to the gravity effect that comes out to be around 2lbs. Also our stock proportioning valve was also designed for drums and that too could be having some effect idk i am no genius when it comes to brakes.


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Trey Reed wrote:mines a dd and to inform yall my car is down, brake has no stop it all when all the way to floor and idk its making horrible sounds on both front sides, i dont even know where to start lol.

That sounds like it would be a problem with your front brakes, not Teh Jeffie!!! rear swap....

cavi2sunfire wrote: i would think there would be more problems with these since stock our cars have a 10lb residual valve for the rears to keep pressure for the drums and typically on disc brake setups you wouldnt use a residual valve due to the gravity effect that comes out to be around 2lbs. Also our stock proportioning valve was also designed for drums and that too could be having some effect idk i am no genius when it comes to brakes.

I thought the same thing too with the residual pressure valve, but I haven't experienced any problems at all with my rear brakes. But then again I used all new parts with my setup and IDK if everyone who did the swap did. As far as the prop valve I think it works just about perfect with our cars since they are similar to the saturns in overall setup and weight. Any more rear bias with our crappy weight distribution and the rears would want to lock up every time you press on the pedal.




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Roofy wrote:

Trey Reed wrote:mines a dd and to inform yall my car is down, brake has no stop it all when all the way to floor and idk its making horrible sounds on both front sides, i dont even know where to start lol.

That sounds like it would be a problem with your front brakes, not Teh Jeffie!!! rear swap....

cavi2sunfire wrote: i would think there would be more problems with these since stock our cars have a 10lb residual valve for the rears to keep pressure for the drums and typically on disc brake setups you wouldnt use a residual valve due to the gravity effect that comes out to be around 2lbs. Also our stock proportioning valve was also designed for drums and that too could be having some effect idk i am no genius when it comes to brakes.

I thought the same thing too with the residual pressure valve, but I haven't experienced any problems at all with my rear brakes. But then again I used all new parts with my setup and IDK if everyone who did the swap did. As far as the prop valve I think it works just about perfect with our cars since they are similar to the saturns in overall setup and weight. Any more rear bias with our crappy weight distribution and the rears would want to lock up every time you press on the pedal.

god i hope its just the front messing up i love my jeffie rears



2010 Lonestar Bash 2nd place J-Body Street Class
2011 texas heatwave 2nd place american compact street class

a follow up, it was a very very very bad wheel hub, so bad i almost lost my wheel, rotor saved my wheel and car from a nose dive at an intersection, changed the hub and brake stiffness is back



2010 Lonestar Bash 2nd place J-Body Street Class
2011 texas heatwave 2nd place american compact street class

so you replaced both right? arent wheel hubs like brakes, if you're going to do at least one corner, do the opposite side at the same time.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

do in pairs



2010 Lonestar Bash 2nd place J-Body Street Class
2011 texas heatwave 2nd place american compact street class