whres a good place to get a 150amp in line fuse
Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:
Sorry that you aren't fond of me... I guess you seem to be a loner in that crowd bud.
...i beg to differ
local audio shop........sticky
I have a 2005 sunfire and im having alot of problems getting the nut off the post so I can run a wire from my Alt to my Batt. Any suggestions?
Oliver Kadrija wrote:I have a 2005 sunfire and im having alot of problems getting the nut off the post so I can run a wire from my Alt to my Batt. Any suggestions?
try a wrench, i'm totally serial
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why was this de-stickied??? STICKY!!!
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this useless post brought to you by the alcoholic known as LUNDiS
lundis wrote:why was this de-stickied??? STICKY!!!
I don't recall it ever being stickied in the first place...not that it matters anyway.
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Labotomi wrote:lundis wrote:why was this de-stickied??? STICKY!!!
Copyrighted material?
Far from it.
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Cavi in KC wrote:Labotomi wrote:Copyrighted material?
From where?
It was published in a now defunct car audio mag a few years back. I'm not sure if Strangeriffic on Sounddomain was the original author and it was picked up by the mag or he copied it from the mag.
Here's his post on SD (From 12-26-2003)
Topic: The OFFICIAL "Big 3" Upgrade Thread, With Pictures
do i need to run a fuse in the alt to battery positive wire?
Brad Rogers wrote:do i need to run a fuse in the alt to battery positive wire?
yes
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anyone have better pics of the finished upgrade?
Shaggy wrote:anyone have better pics of the finished upgrade?
what else do you want, the pictures on the first post show exactly what needs to be done.
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can i get a pic of the pos connection on the alt? i dont wanna F this up
question regarding this:
Quote:
6) Run the wire either through your fuse box if applicable or through a fuse. The fuse should be sized to match the max ampacity of your wire, not the output capability of your alternator. 150A fuse for 4awg wire..and 300A fuse for 1/0awg wire.
I understanding not wanting the line to catch on fire, and thus matching the fuse to what the wire could hold... but why wouldn't you put in a fuse that will keep the Alternator's regulator from burning out?
For example, If your alternator can handle 150 amps, and 200 runs through the fuse, it's going to go to the alternator and possibly burn out the regulator, correct? So why not install a 150amp fuse and have it blow before you get to the alternator?
With this nice write up shouldnt you include that an optima yellow top is for a non charging system
Thats what my optima dealer told me anyway
hey can some one re-post the posotive to alternator pic.. it's not showing up anymore ... thanks.
Brandon03 wrote:With this nice write up shouldnt you include that an optima yellow top is for a non charging system Thats what my optima dealer told me anyway
wuts that mean? this is useless with a yellow top?
it means that his dealer is giving him false info. yellow top can be used for starter battery or deep cycle.
What happened to the 2nd and 3rd pics in the first post? Anyone want to add some too help me out?
I know the yellow top optima's have the side and top posts but do you lose any power by just using the top?
I have my sound system set up so that I have about 3 power wires, on the top; and two ground wires, on the top.
Would I benefit more from using the top and side posts?
- 2003 CHEVY CAVALIER LS SPORT ECOTEC -
- Current Mods -
-- Vibrant Exhaust & DC Sport Header --
-- Lower Motor Mount & TTR Upper Motor Mount --
-- B&M ShiftPlus & Vibrant Front STB --
-- K&N Typhoon Short Ram Intake --
RIP DAD<3 We love & miss you so much!
just finished up with the big 3...what a differance! wish i would have done that first!
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