Well something bad happened and the block cracked on the 3rd cylinder. It seems like the aluminum collapsed and the sleeve gave way with nothing supporting it. I don't know if it from 2.0 used to 8:1 compression and shorter stroke, to much boost, or not structurally sound.
I do have another block and I got GM LS1 TB to go straight turbo. The cylinder head looks new still. I am going to rebuild it and should have it running in a month or 2.
Here's pic of the damege:
Holy shi%!!! That sucks, good luck with the rebuild
Damn, I really hate to see this happen. Are you going to change anything to your new setup besides dropping the supercharger? Same stroke, compression, etc...?
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To much heat and boost in a stock sleeved block it was only a matter of time the first gen blocks seem to be cracking sleeves close to 400hp mark your combination with the supercharger was to much heat for it.This is the reason i went sleeved and gen 2 block.
Yeah he was using a LSJ block and it seems ot me they are the worse.
With driveline loss he should have been around 405hp at the weak point of the LSJ block.
FU Tuning
Yeah there not made for all the boost members are claiming better safe going gen 2 or sleeving it. Pretty impressive with the block damage that the head is ok.
im confused???????????????
27 psi boost
pump gas
10.5:1 compression
and you wonder why it blew up??????
JOE L wrote:im confused???????????????
27 psi boost
pump gas
10.5:1 compression
and you wonder why it blew up??????
The block failed, not like it busted a piston.
FU Tuning
Addicted to meth wrote:JOE L wrote:im confused???????????????
27 psi boost
pump gas
10.5:1 compression
and you wonder why it blew up??????
The block failed, not like it busted a piston.
with that much boost and compression on pump gas something was bound to fail. in this case the cylinder. this engine had to have been detonating pretty badly on pump gas.
The valves seem fine they were not stuck open I cleaned the valves off easily on the culinder that the damage happened. I still had to pry the head off; the head gasket was still holding. It might need a resurface. Gonna check it out.
I am floating the idea of using the 2.2l rods & pistons with the 2.0L crank. Using rough measurements: the 2.0L rod / piston is longer than the 2.2L rod / piston. The stroke on the 2.0L crank is shorter than the 2.2L stroke so it should work mechanically.
Problem then is can the different crank gears for the timing chain interchange; does the crank position on 2.0L read timing like 2.2L or is it off the cam position that the 2.2L doesn't have?
I want to see if 2.0L crank with 2.2L rods / pistons will work. In hopes of lowering the compression some.
Now sure how you can have an issue with crank gear when running the same crank. The 2.0 uses both the crank and the cam, the 2.2 uses the crank and a faked cam.
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