yeah props for going at the projects for not doing this before, but its not something you can 'wing'. these supercharger setups generate a lot of heat. they generate a lot of extra hp/tq that was not intended for these specific builds. and the car can take the extra power (to a limit to be safe)...but you gotta respect doing things the right way. Im surprised that hammering the pulley causing the shaft to give even just slightly isnt going to cause it to move in and out and cause other issues.

youre also going to want to set up a catch can because that air filter on your PCV port is going to get oily, fast..and drip down onto your valve cover and into your injector areas. Its not a question of 'IF' but 'WHEN'. It will happen. so start looking into that too.

but congrats on getting it to run and make sure you are NOT driving around without a wideband and running lean. your adventures will be over very quickly if youre boosting lean.


04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.

Well, Im going to be removing the pulley thats on the blower soon with a new hub and pulley, and go a little smaller. At the same time Im going to get a dual pass and a new alternator, because the lsj one I have, the volt regulator is bad. Im also working on getting some more gauges to watch over, and a wideband will be my next one. And thanks about the pcv, Im thinking about routing it back to the intake..

pyromechanic wrote:And thanks about the pcv, Im thinking about routing it back to the intake..

I wouldn't take too much time to think about it...move it back to the intake sooner than later. Our PCV systems needs vacuum to properly function. Blu04Dd mentioned how oil will start backing out the filter on the valve cover (and it will), that's the result of the system backing up from excessive pressure (which will lead to things like rear main seal leaks and other issues).





Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, August 25, 2012 9:15 AM

I know, I remember reading that, but my question is, where is the new intake for the pcv? It used to be the holes in the head, next to the intake ports correct? And now we blocked them? One other thing.. I dont have problems with anything, but Im not feeling any power.. When I first started it, it was great, or at least somewhat. But now it doesnt even feel supercharged. Its about 88 degrees here in Ohio, and I do not have my pump running yet for the heat exchanger, all hoses are hooked up though.

Well if the heat exchanger pump isn't running, that could be why you're not feeling power. If the blower is getting heat soaked, and if it's almost 90* ambient out and you don't have a functioning h/e system, it's most likely heat soaked. The tune will pull timing at a certain IAT to prevent knock and causing damage.
For comparison, my first tune would pull a little timing when IATs hit 150*, and then pull alot of timing as the temps got closer to 200. I originally ran a stock endplate and cobra h/e, and in 90* weather I was heat soaked and pulling timing after two back to back hard pulls (on a 3.1" pulley). The Eaton generates a TON of heat, and doesnt take much to heat soak itself.

As far as the pcv, you don't NEED to block off the port in the head, but people do it if they suspect the manifold's built in check valve to be failed (if the check valve isn't working properly, it'll allow pressurized air from the manifold into the head when under boost, in turn pressurizing the crank case. Blocking it off prevents that). So when you block it off, there isn't really an "in" for pcv through the manifold...you're now just pulling out the gas via the valve cover. Again, I'd only do this if you suspect the manifold check valve being bad. If it is functioning, it'll allow the PVC system to work normally (though a catch can system is still recommended since you'll be building extra pressure regardless).

On an n/a setup, the nipple on the valve cover is used as the crankcase "vent"...but it uses the line attached to the air box on top of the throttle body to help pull the gases out, via vacuum in the manifold (which is why I mentioned the breather filter being a no no...the gases then have to drift out as opposed as being pulled out).
On boosted application, you want the nipple on the valve connected to a constant vacuum source so it can operate as normal. The catch can in the line will catch any unburnt blow by so it doesn't trash up your intake track where you'll be pulling vac from. A simple setup would run a line from the valve cover into a catch can (used a good baffled can, not a cheap eBay can), then run the catch can to your intake.
My current setup is two 8an lines from the valve cover (1 intake side, 1 exhaust) run into a baffled can, through a check valve, and into the first pipe of my intake (right after the filter). You could also tee it into somewhere like the brake booster that sees higher vac consistently. There's a great write up from SweetnessGT (I think) in this forum.

If its that hot out and you dont have you exchanger working it will feel dead and as slow as stock if not slower. Especially if you have the a/c on.

But the temperature outside was just the same as it is now, when Im not feeling anything.. It ran so much better, could barely keep traction in 2nd, but now, I dont heere the louder exhaust tone (big suggestion that Im not getting boost), Im wondering if I could be having leaks from the by pass valve or the cores. And yes, I am going to try to route it to the hole for the lsj's map sensor, if not, to the brake booster. (I was actually wondering about that, too so thanks lol) And depending on whatever other people did, I wont cut holes in the intake gasket for the pcv intake ports if no one else did and didnt have issues.

But.. I have a story to tell thats making me very confused. I did this conversion with my father. When we were done, I had that pencil sized port on top of the intake manifold routed with a boost gauge hose and used the T at the end of the hose, with the one end capped, and the small pin size hole unplugged, not thinking it would do anything. Also.. Before we started doing this, I had about 3/8ths of tank left of regular unleaded 86 octane I think, fuel. I wanted to empty the tank and run full 93 octane but my father kept saying no and forced me not to do it cause.. Well he wanted to do @!#$ his way. We got a 5 gallon tub of 93 octane and diluded it with the unleaded gas already present.. Also, installed the heat exchanger but not the hosing. It started, ran so strong. Then I noticed the lights pulsating, need to replace the alternator,I have a new one that I have to put in. 2 days later in heavy traffic, cylinder 3 misfired. Just once. Continued on, no other misfire happened. Then this thursday, began installing gauges, but took all day to get the pillar together, so I left them out and that port on top of the manifold unplugged.. Drove, the gas tank was empty, filled it full with 93 oct, then a few hours later.. Misfire after misfire. The CEL started flashing, got worried, stopped driving it. I plugged that pencil sized plug, almost forgetting about it, and no more CEL or misfire, smooth idle and everything. But now... No power. You hear the blower whine, no CEL, everything smooth, no over heat, just no power, exactly the same power as N/A, same exhaust tone as N/A too. Im thinking no boost.. the blower has 88k on it.

Hooked up the boost gauge, reads 5-6 psi or so at wot, so no vacuum leaks or anything, neither the by pass valve. Just disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes, started it again, but still no power.. and seems to be getting worse.. idk. I remember reading that the pcv system will build pressure and rob power, but not this much. The only other thing I can think of is the alternator.. the thing had 100k on it, got it for a good price haha shouldnt have gotten it, it has a bad volt regulator. Maybe not enough power to the coils? killing the battery?

No.....if your not getting around 10psi id venture to guess there is an issue with your bypass valve.

did u read the install instructions before you did this? what pencil sized port are you talking about. it sounds like you dont have the map sensor in, or have the right one in. im so confused because you are not using proper terminology when talking about things.

Ill look into a new bypass valve then.. Lol yes I read all instructions. It never said what to do with a few things.. Such as the evap port on the intake manifold, just showed a picture, which is what I am talking about. It never said what to do with the pcv port on the valve cover. I used the opening on the intake manifold that GM supposedly designed for the evap tube, for my boost gauge. I have my evap routed back to the AEM CAI.

ok....u have it all hooked up wrong.

the nipple on the manifold needs to go to the fuel pressure regulator. and you can "t" into it to run to the boost gauge. then the evap solinoid needs to be hooked up to the throttle body adaptor. you take the nipple off the stock manifold and put in on the adaptor. then run the evap to that.

take some good pics of your setup, so we can see how you have all yoru vaccum lines run.

Alright, it seems I do have the wrong terminology.. Sorry, my fuel pressure regulator is routed to the AEM CAI, and my evap sube, a little deformed from the twisting and turning, is connected to the original intake manifold's connector that is now seated in the tb adaptor. And I took a few pictures, not the greatest, it is 925 over here and there is no light.

Wow we need pics and a grammar book stat! lol

..Im getting a new bypass valve.

Haha no I have grammar, just not the correct definitions on engine parts. Correction from previous comment of "sube" is "tube."

FPR needs to go to manifold....probably solve ur issues

EvoFire wrote:FPR needs to go to manifold....probably solve ur issues

This.

The only things that should be seeing vacuum at all times are the pcv, evap, and brake booster. The MAP sensor and FPR need to feed off the manifold so they see boost (and of course the boost gauge needs it too).

Hooked the regulator to that manifold nipple and.. I got another misfire. Cylinder 2 this time. And let me edit my story, when I had a misfire after misfire and had a blinking CEL, they were cylinder 2. I really dont know what else it can be.. Im going to get teh alternator replaced and get the heat exchanger hooked up and gauges and the new by pass.. Idk. And btw, it was heavily raining here today when I got it, and its 70 degrees out.

I think there are probably a lot lot lot lot of things this could be. lets start cheap.

spark plugs,
spark plug boots
ICM
coil pack
bad grounds
bad/wrong fuel
incorrect vacuum plumbing


are you 100% sure the alternator is bad? check the wiring to it, both the plug and the power wire on top. I forgot to tighten the power wire on top when i first did mine, worked fine for a few days, then gave me issues like a bad alternator, but once i tighten it havent had any issues sense....

I would double check EVERYTHING before i started buying parts.

it took me 3 years of collecting parts, and talking myself into it before i installed my blower. and when i finally decided too, my dad and i went through the instructions step by step about 2-3 times before hand to make sure we didnt miss anything. from bolts to hoses to belts, to RTV, i had everything i needed BEFORE i installed it, because i planned. I think you need to take a step back, and re read the instructions again, and make sure you didnt miss ANYTHING...

I had the same issues with misfire and blinking CEL. Without reading too much into this thread.. my issue were the spark plugs. One was even slightly cracked. Bought the correct NGK under the M62 write up and done! Like mentioned above, icm/coil pack would be next to check.

and re reading the last few threads, i would replace the HARD plastic line from the evap to the TB adaptor with rubber vaccum hose. that pinched and bent and stupid looking hardline might be causing issues too.

Changed plugs to NGK plugs for a cavalier/sunfire with the ecotec.. No difference in power, but no more check engine..yet.. I let it idle for about 6 minutes, at a stop. But for a note, the plugs were covered with carbon, especially the second, had it all over the tip. And also, for a boost example, I am in second gear about 2500 rpm, no throttle, about 21 vacuum, then when I go WOT in same gear and speed, I get about 4 PSI, and it slowly rises to about 6. Then change gears, and it repeats. Got to about max of 7. And its no longer humid and about 72 degrees. And evo, I know, I was wanting to get a new line for that as well when it got bent like that but havent gotten to it.

pyromechanic wrote:Changed plugs to NGK plugs for a cavalier/sunfire with the ecotec.. No difference in power, but no more check engine..yet.. I let it idle for about 6 minutes, at a stop. But for a note, the plugs were covered with carbon, especially the second, had it all over the tip. And also, for a boost example, I am in second gear about 2500 rpm, no throttle, about 21 vacuum, then when I go WOT in same gear and speed, I get about 4 PSI, and it slowly rises to about 6. Then change gears, and it repeats. Got to about max of 7. And its no longer humid and about 72 degrees. And evo, I know, I was wanting to get a new line for that as well when it got bent like that but havent gotten to it.

how can you be in second gear at 2500 RPMs with no throttle. I am going to say this nicely, back away from the car, and let someone who KNOWS about this setup look at it or test drive it. Some thing is DEF not right, but you dont seem to know what it what enough to describe the issues, or how things are hooked up.

are you a automatic trans, or manual? if auto, then both nipples on the bypass valve are supposed to be connected. not sure where the second one gets connected to though.

...you accelerate to about 25-30mph and get in second, with no gas.. Do you expect it to stall or something? I have a manual transmission. And who am I supposed to bring it to? A mechanic at Midas and have them tell me that my sunfire is incapable of getting supercharged and Im a dumbass? Because Ive already been told that from the guys at Midas whom I tried to have take the stock pulley off the blower.