I noticed how some people were confused on how to do the check valve. So i took a couple of pictures of mine. I am running two check valves. Here ya go

<img src="http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/509000-509999/509956_6_full.jpg">

<img src="http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/509000-509999/509956_7_full.jpg">
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<b>---------------------------------------------------------
2001 Z24
T3 Super 60 Intercooled Turbo
That's all that matters</b>

<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/buffaluphagus/personal_pic.gif">

What exacltey do they do? And why do you need two?


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_________________
That thing got a hemi?

It releases the air pressure when the car is under boost, so the map doesn't read the boost. I put two in, because i had two. Some people put 3 in and some only put in one.
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<b>---------------------------------------------------------
2001 Z24
T3 Super 60 Intercooled Turbo
That's all that matters</b>

<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/buffaluphagus/personal_pic.gif">

Yeah I used 3 because it seemed my MAP sensor was really sensitive <br>

Alex
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uh folks i honestly don't think you guyz know what check valves and blow off valves do, uh for a check valve to work it has to be run inline, the picture up top the install is completely wrong, i think you are confusing them with bov, which is wat releases air pressure into the air, um your map pressure is seening boost, u need to actually run the check valve inline from the map sensor to the plug, check valve just stop flow in 1 direction, like a diode, they don't release air pressure, like a bov, sorry but if u put a vacum gauge on that u would see boost since nothing is stopping the air to the map sensor

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Its not how fast your car goes....its how much nerve the driver has to push it that fast.

that is how everyone runs the check vavles on the 2.4's

if u run it inline the map sensor gets all goofy .


some ppl dont run check vavles on the 2.4l some do.

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=GreenZ= wrote:that is how everyone runs the check vavles on the 2.4's

if u run it inline the map sensor gets all goofy .


some ppl dont run check vavles on the 2.4l some do.

Yeah, if u run it inline it doesn't work right. <br>

<b>---------------------------------------------------------
2001 Z24
T3 Super 60 Intercooled Turbo
That's all that matters</b>

<img src="http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/buffaluphagus/personal_pic.gif">

alright nm, i see how the system i guess would , ill be honest i still think some boost is getting there, i apologize about my statment before as that is a very unconvetial way of running a check valve, i don't know why the check valve doesn't run with it inline as thats how it really should work, is it getting stuck u really should use a guage to figure that out, i don't care how fast they open, map is still seeing it, again i apolgize

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Its not how fast your car goes....its how much nerve the driver has to push it that fast.

i can probably see why its causing errors, maybe the vacuum is not enough to open the actual valve in the check valve, where exactly are u getting these check valves are they even designed for this type of application <br>

Its not how fast your car goes....its how much nerve the driver has to push it that fast.

it looks goofy though, but as long as it works . eh '


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Yeah, I've heard that everyone has been putting their check valves on t's with the map sensor line, but I thought they were supposed to go inline as well.

What's the problem with them when they're inline? Is the valve not opening and letting the vacuum through?

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<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/sizapo/cavsig.jpg">
"Radar about to be.......JAMMED!"

thats what im thinking , probably doesn't have enough strength to open it <br>

Its not how fast your car goes....its how much nerve the driver has to push it that fast.

do u have to run a check valve on the ecotec motor?

It seems to me, going from just intuition, that the entire inside of the tubing will have to pressurize before the check valve will release. Following this logic, the MAP sensor, however short of a duration, is still seeing the spike. I have no proof, but it seems logical to me.

The other idea I was toying with is this. If you hook it up inline with one check valve and you're idling, you're pulling 17-20 inHg, and the vacuum acts "through" the check valve. Now, how does the vacuum get counteracted if the check valve fails to allow any positive pressure through it? If you have a vacuum from the check valve to the MAP sensor, when you have a lesser vacuum (higher pressure) from the TB to the check valve, it would seem the valve would not allow that pressure to equalize the tubing from the check valve to the MAP. Therefore, you would have a constant vacuum acting on the MAP and the MAP would have no way of understanding you just floored it and want to haul azz.

Am I missing something? I'm currently tackling this issue for the first time, so if anyone in the "know" could help us out, that would be kickazz. Protomec? Protonus? <br>

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<img src="http://home.nycap.rr.com/xenox/jbody/jbody_shocker.jpg">

I really need to know the part numbers for those check valves ,where did you get them ,and how much did they cost?
Please help me <br>

horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, Torque is how far you push the wall with you

Xcidium wrote:It seems to me, going from just intuition, that the entire inside of the tubing will have to pressurize before the check valve will release. Following this logic, the MAP sensor, however short of a duration, is still seeing the spike. I have no proof, but it seems logical to me.

The other idea I was toying with is this. If you hook it up inline with one check valve and you're idling, you're pulling 17-20 inHg, and the vacuum acts "through" the check valve. Now, how does the vacuum get counteracted if the check valve fails to allow any positive pressure through it? If you have a vacuum from the check valve to the MAP sensor, when you have a lesser vacuum (higher pressure) from the TB to the check valve, it would seem the valve would not allow that pressure to equalize the tubing from the check valve to the MAP. Therefore, you would have a constant vacuum acting on the MAP and the MAP would have no way of understanding you just floored it and want to haul azz.

Am I missing something? I'm currently tackling this issue for the first time, so if anyone in the "know" could help us out, that would be kickazz. Protomec? Protonus?

your close or right on top of it

the vacuum will get traped on the map side of the sensor and cause problems , the map thinks your still at idle with 15-20

with the check valves its a mini blow off valve so to speak , cause it svent small amouts of pressure off and keeping the map from seeing full boost

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Any pet store dude. Most of us are using fish tank check valves. What a piss poor way of doing it but it works. Believe me. tried it both ways ,inline and the way pictured above is what finally worked. Pet Smart fish tank check valve dude. Thats it. and hook it up how you see above. Take our word for it. one of you other guys might want to specify which way the airflow should not flow on the checkvalve because I don't feel like explaining anymore. <br>

<src img=www.j body.org('/members/image/dragracemyz24/DSC00011.JPG/','533','400');>

those look like the valves you can buy at any auto parts store.

from what i "hear" they dont last long.

some people also poke pin holes in the tubing.

i tried a bunch of check valve configurations.

the only one that worked (for me) were the way it is pictured above, and w/o a valve.
(running w/o a check valve may limit teh life expectancy of the MAP sensor)
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- When I was young we used to go "skinny dipping," now I just"chunkydunk."

Does the Ecotec Need a Check Valve?
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<img src= "http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/super2200/myecotec.JPG">

how does the car act when the MAP sensor sees boost or when it doesnt read correct vac?
also.. can Check Valves go bad??
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Turbo @ 5psi... Timeslips coming soon MSN: Senior (thesenior@hotmail.com) AIM: S3nior
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/thesenior/S3NIORS1.jpg">

Konstantinos wrote:how does the car act when the MAP sensor sees boost or when it doesnt read correct vac?
also.. can Check Valves go bad??

hmmm, maybe that is your problem Konstantinos, i know w/ the 2.4's they cant see boost anyway but the check valve helps keep the map sensor good. I know that sometimes the 2.2's need 3 check valves to make sure the map doesn't see boost, if it does the ecu doesn't know what it is and may make the car act crazy.

never needed a checkvalve on my setup, but i cant see how that little dual check valve setup is doing anything.

as far back as i can remember check valves simply close (stop) as they see boost, and therefore the opposite side of the line will only see atmospheric pressure. therefore inline they must lie. perhaps you have turned the check valve the wrong way intialiy when you first attempted an inline setup? i dont see how that setup will stop the map sensor from reading boost anyway.

bottom line: take the check valve off in that setup (with the picture) and see if the car acts any different. i am pretty confident that it wont do anything different without the checkvalve. <br>


________________________________________________

...dont encourage

I have no check valve on my 2.4. Never an issue.

I hear the 2.2's need them, though. Never understood why. <br>

O noes!

Geekd24 and Smokey, do you guys get any CEL?

Got any occasional ALMOST stalling when comes to a stop?

well.. the prblem is my car acts funky now even without boost. open TB. so that would rule out the check valve and MAP sensor. and it ran great before with the check valve in line.
<br>

Turbo @ 5psi... Timeslips coming soon MSN: Senior (thesenior@hotmail.com) AIM: S3nior
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/thesenior/S3NIORS1.jpg">