His powertrain is out now so He can rotate it and make a few more "upgrades"
BuiltNBoosted wrote:did I recently see a picture of your car on a lift replacing ANOTHER oil pan?
How soon til you start the plans you were talking about to remedy that issue? Still going with rotation and up with the motor?
Yep, as Darren said, she's all tore apart again. Engine is getting rotated, we're fabbing up a raised pan, and the Saab turbo setup is for sale.
Like the wheels, not the color. #obligatoryhate
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
You might look into other Eco oil pans, there might be something with a shallower pan.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
As far as I know tho, no other Eco oil pans come with the provisions for mounting the lower engine mount bracket.
This is why guys that do the LE5 swap have to run the factory J-body L61 oil pan.
That being said, something could always be fabbed up, although in the case of the LE5 pan, its very similar to the L61 pan.
Looking forward to see what you come up with Jeff!
^Thanks dudemar.
I know for sure all Eco pans are within millimeters of the same depth, and newt is right, this is the only pan with the mounting holes for the dogbone mount.
First order of business is to get the engine rotated and back in the car. I dropped an oil pan that I cracked previously off to get bead blasted, so I should hopefully see that back mid-week. I'm not 100% sure the path I'm going to take with the oil pan, I know it's going to get cut apart and modified extensively. It will be made to hold ~5L of oil still.
Mostly playing this by ear as I go, but so far so good.
Just raise the engine/trans. It would also help level your axles.
MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:Just raise the engine/trans. It would also help level your axles.
And make the use of a hood impossible.
The engine is being rotated... I'll say it again.
This will bring the back of a stock pan (which is where I keep breaking them) up, as well as bring the diff up, which is also dangerously close to the ground.
From there the pan will be modified.
If I have to type that out one more time I'll cry.
gtpsunfire wrote:MRThompson (jrthompson) wrote:Just raise the engine/trans. It would also help level your axles.
And make the use of a hood impossible.
first i thought it was cool to run hoodless. second. the clearance to get it flush with the subframe is close to the same as the distance to the hood. its not like he is running a supercharger that is close to the hood. if he is rotating it your taking the only thing close to the hood(throttle body) away from the hood. have you guess tried to use a 2200 factory mount to see what clearance you get?
Pretty sure Jeff knows what he is doing, rotating the motor forward should raise the pan/diff above the sub-frame, thus problem solved.
I had to raise the front end of my car up for this exact reason, with my 22" slicks, the back of my oil pan was scary close to the ground.
didn't say he didn't know what he was doing. just giving ideas of what i would do. he can take them or leave them, thats up to him. i'm sure i will be running into the same issue he is when i actually get to my car.
Ill admit upfront I ha e little knowledge of the eco motors.
On that note, is the.pick up part of the pan? Only reason I ask is I was wondering about possibly having to make provisions to keep the.oil flowing towards the.pickup and not just slosh front to back.
I'm really surprised with breaking multiple pans the motor hasn't been run dry yet.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
Jeff Wybrow wrote:-Z Yaaaa- wrote:go dry sump!
no
why not? not only would you get more power from it, better oil pressure AND you could basically do a completely flat pan with a small pickup trough in it... but it'd just be flat out cool lol
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, June 13, 2012 6:17 PM
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^Trust me that was the initial plan of attack... after pricing it out though, the pan itself is ~$700.
I'd wind up losing A/C, which for the life of me, I want to keep.
It just isn't totally worth it.
Yeah. On a car you daily drive. Or even occasioally drive, I never understood people trying to justify any mod that disables a feature like AC.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
JLAudioCavalier wrote:Yeah. On a car you daily drive. Or even occasioally drive, I never understood people trying to justify any mod that disables a feature like AC.
I prefer an open window in a car to AC and 90*F is rare up here, so it isnt important to me. Just one guy's veiw on AC.
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For u guys in the mid and southern States that would be dumb on a dd cuz I kno it's gotta be hot as fuk (must be nice lol) on another note I seen a VW Jetta here with vette wheels on it, I gotta grab a pic and post it, everytime I see it I think of ur car just because of the wheels, love that wide azz tire look, just SICK!! get her done man
Skr8 Goodz in tha hood
I drive with my windows down everyday, A/C is rarely on, but in the rare situation where I'm stuck in traffic, etc, it's nice to sit there with the windows down and A/C on while everyone else is sweating their life away.
I'd like to keep it, just cause I've managed to keep everything else completely functional thus far, so I'd like that trend to continue. If I can't, then so be it, but as of right now, I don't see why I can't make it work with A/C.
ah, totally understandable man. although, you could mod a stock pan for a hell of a lot cheaper than $700 and there are ways of mounting the pump other than the ac pump location... hell you might even be able to get it to run off an axle if you were real creative LOL
i like my ac, too.
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