o2 sensor is lawling at you

i think it was my spark plug wires not firing right. so i stopped today and b ought a cheap set from advance.

any updates here?

ummmmm well its still running lol noting really just getting it ready for the sonic meet if there goin to still have it this sunday

well you got an extra week now lol

nope cant make it next weekend its my girls birthday so im spending the day with her

well since the show got canceled im just sittin around all day so heres a crappy pic of the gauge pod after fixing it.

ryan txt me what you have to trade for the TRD kit and when you gonna make me a sweet gauge pod lol.

installed the pod yesterday. Fits 100% better now

looks tits man

don't punch this one ryan

so i know i havn't updated in awhile. Been busy workin 6 days a week and paying off some bills. I did buy this tho off a fellow on DSMtuners. Its a carbon fiber wraped stock fuel door.

oooo me <3 carbon fiber lol

today i had the day off so i worked on the car and fixed a problem and installed the fuel door:

Problem i was having started beguning of this week. Everytime the car would idle i would get a grinding noise that would start and stop but would get worse everyday. Well on friday i was messin around and speeding home and everytime i shifted the grind would start as the RPMs dropped but then stoped when i got on it again. Well i stopped at my grams for awhile and when i went to leave the i started the car and yes the grind was massive and wouldn't stop and i could actually fell the engine hittin somethin and wanting to stop. Well when i got out and looked i found out my crank pulley came loose and i could wiggle it back and forth. So it sat for that last 2 days. Today I went and got the right size tap and bolt i needed for the crank. Took me like 30 mins to fix the problem and get the pulley back on and tight. From what i can figure is since its getting warm out the alumin. pulley expanded enough to slip on the crank and after it slipped over and over again it wore out the pulley inside. But all is well now. On weds im goin to take the valve cover off. drill and tap the bolt holes for it and torque down the vlave cover so it stops @!#$in leaking.

If your having problems with oil leaks, you might also want to check the cam sensor O-ring. Its a real common place for Chrysler 2.0l's to leak massive amounts of oil from.

Thanks ozzie963 i'll have to check that out when i actually get the time to look it over. I know the valve cover is leaking and its as tight as it can be without stripping the threads in the head (witch is extremly easy on them). so im goin to drill and helicoil the threads sometime and clean/degrease the surface and seal it with gasket sealer and hopfully it will seal right and not leak. Trans needs pulled the the input shalf bearing/seal need to be replaced too but thats for anyother time.

Got some more work done. Yesterday i deicided to wash the enigne off for once and actually find the leaks i was having. Seems all the oil was from the valve cover on the back pass. side cornor. So i removed the valve cover again and didn't find anything and then i found what i think was the problem. There was a build up of old gasket sealer on the cam hold down right behind the cam gears. so i removed it and cleaned it up all nice. Then while reinstalling the valve cover i snapped a bolt off. God @!#$ Damn It!!! So today i removed the cover once again and drilled the bolt out, retapped it and helicoiled it for a bigger bolt.


Also the other day i was passed a truck somewhat to close and the wind got under my hood and the frame i made for the underside kind aleft go. So at higher speeds the hood would move to much for my liking so i rmeoved that. I used my angle grinder with a sanding bit and removed all the old glue globs under the hood and then reglassed the frame to the hood.

......IM BAAAAACCCCKKKKK!!!! I'll be posting pics up all week or work i'll be doing on the car. But heres a sneak peak:

Woot! Looking forward to more progress...lol

pictures up tonight

It's been a long time since i worked on my car. Left it go to hell had more importent things in life to deal with. Since i last really worked on my car the trans started leakin hardcore, car started to burn oil and leak somewhere out the back of the motor, And when i pulled my plugs to clean them, they were a white powdery color. But im back now. Put up the garage with a new frame to hold it down and keep it straight, ordered a AEM Wideband, Input shaft bearing/seal, and a new diff pin. Plans are to take the trans out, open her up, replace the front input shaft seal/bearing, install the new bearings on the diff., Repalce the diff pin, then put the diff with the LSD in the trans, seal it all back up and reinstall. Then drill and tap the head for the valve cover with bigger m8 bolts to tighten the valve cover down tighter to stop it from leaking, and find where the oil is coming from on the back of the block.
Onto pictures:
Garage up:



I ran out of wood so the front isn't finishted yet
now the car. This is starting to be a common sight at my house:



Only took me 2 and a half hours to pull it this time.

You still having problems with the crank pulley? I doubt it had anything to do with temperature since the aluminum changes 13.7*10^-6 in per degree F while steel is about 8.6*10^-6.
Say if the temperature outside changes 70F, the aluminum is only going to grow 0.000959 in, not enough to cause the problems you described. Also you gotta remember that it's growing that much in all directions so it's really minimal.
That pulley probably sees more temperature variation from you driving the car than from ambient conditions,
I would think that it wasn't torqued properly in the first place or you didn't use any thread-locking stuff on it.

That being said, props on the car and doing everything yourself. Good work and i love seeing all the updates

Yea the problem was that the bolt came loose and it spun once then twice then jsut kept spinnin witch bored out the center hub making it loose.

more pictures from last night. I took my down pipe over to my buddy to get welded. I wasn;t thinking when i first started. I drill a hole in one of the 2 pipes then realized that i wanted the sensor to read all 4 cylinders not jsut one. so we had to welded the hole shut and weld the bung down lower. He also put some kinda of exhaust past on the weld too to make sure it sealed:




Then when i got home my stuff finally showed up:

Then this morning when i woke up i started taking the trans about:



Whats left of the speed gear:

and the lower half chillin out till i get stuff done:

dropped the diff off at the shop tonight to get the bearings on. Pick it back up tom at noon. Heres the thing i dont get. The leak was coming from a bolt hole in the bell housing that seems like it goes no where near the inside fo the trans.... im lost on that one.