Sounds like you need ot get the car tuned.
FU Tuning
Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:Sounds like you need ot get the car tuned.
The tuner who is tuning it knows his sh!t, but from what I have gathered from all of this, the car needs its mechanical issues worked out before the tune can be completed. I would also advise you to STOP pressure washing your engine...
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
QWK LN2 (P&P Tuning) wrote:Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:Sounds like you need ot get the car tuned.
The tuner who is tuning it knows his sh!t, but from what I have gathered from all of this, the car needs its mechanical issues worked out before the tune can be completed. I would also advise you to STOP pressure washing your engine...
^this... i really dare to say the car is running like it was prior to sunday again... (because something else will sure to come up)... i found the correct tps sensor for the 60mm tb and was able to get it same day (who knew a tps sensor for a pre 95 quad engine would still be sitting in a local gm warehouse). I disconnected the battery and jumped the terminals to reset the adaptives. The car struggled to maintain idle at first, but by the time i got on the interstate, it was idling normally, and did not stall for me at all during stop and go traffic.
now hopefully i can get back to figuring out my random misfires, i think thats the key at this point of solving my issues.
Mystic02VA (GME Chat) wrote:QWK LN2 (P&P Tuning) wrote:Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:Sounds like you need ot get the car tuned.
The tuner who is tuning it knows his sh!t, but from what I have gathered from all of this, the car needs its mechanical issues worked out before the tune can be completed. I would also advise you to STOP pressure washing your engine...
^this... i really dare to say the car is running like it was prior to sunday again... (because something else will sure to come up)... i found the correct tps sensor for the 60mm tb and was able to get it same day (who knew a tps sensor for a pre 95 quad engine would still be sitting in a local gm warehouse). I disconnected the battery and jumped the terminals to reset the adaptives. The car struggled to maintain idle at first, but by the time i got on the interstate, it was idling normally, and did not stall for me at all during stop and go traffic.
now hopefully i can get back to figuring out my random misfires, i think thats the key at this point of solving my issues.
I never said the guy tuning it did not know how to. I thnk you have different things going on because of different things. Not all related to one issue. Seeing as the car is not fully tuned I could see the stalling issues being the tune. That's all.
FU Tuning
the car is acting "normal" again... no driveability concerns again, but still the misfires code...
as far as i know the following things lead to misfires
spark (ignition module, coils, coil housing, plugs, boots, etc)
fuel (pump, injectors, regulator, etc
Tune
Compression loss
Spark so far can be ruled out as i replaced plugs, boots, housing, and coils with brand new OEM (plugs being Delco platnums),
Fuel.... im running LSJ injectors, low milage when i bought them. The injector constant was changed to what they should be for them. I only have a random misfire code, so i could rule out individual injectors... beyond this, any other suggestions for what i could test to see if fuel is related to my issue
Tune: ive been told its in the ball park...
Comp loss: i ran a compression test when i assembled the motor, they ran about 260 PSI across each cyl... i'll see about running another comp test this week and make sure they are still on point.
beyond this, im out of ideas...
When are you getting the misfires now.
FU Tuning
Isnt it running quite rich? I thought I read that a while back. too rich can cause misfires.
BTW my battery died and my above 5mph thing started up really bad. If I pop it in neutral driving above 5mph it revs to 2700 rpm. Yesterday I blipped the throttle while it was doing this and it really quick revved to 4500 and stayed until I dropped it back into gear. Its really pissing me off now. I suppose it could be in the tuning but im really leaning more towards the cam sensor. Im strongly considering flashing to the S/C program and fake 1 baring it until I slap on the turbo since its been proven to run fine with no cam sensor. I need to get my HP tuners back and mess with it more a bit first.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, March 27, 2011 7:25 PM
the car itself doesn't seem like its misfiring... but it gets set in the Pending DTCs within minutes of startup, and sets the CEL after a couple keycycles within minutes of the last keycycle.
and the car is running lean... i have video of the wideband ... let me see if i can upload it...
Also, my reving above 2 grand issue went away with the new TPS... i think something is wrong with the TPS on my 95 quad TB because its acting up when its on the car (the holding rev above 3000 rpm above 5 MPH)... Z's Z... try swapping out your TPS and seeing if that fixes your issue
EDIT:
My phone camera blows, but you can see it bouncing around but mainly hanging around in "---" which is above 17. You can also see im maintaining 65 MPH in 5th gear.
It doesn't always do this and when it doesn't. it hangs around 14.7 while crusing. Regardless of whether its hanging around 14.7 or jumping around, the car acts/drives the same.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Sunday, March 27, 2011 7:48 PM
Ya know come to think of it the throttle body and sensors were used spares I had in my shed cus some kid stole my intake and throttle body that was on the car. I never used them before this setup.
Hmmm I wonder if you have a bad injector causing the fluctuations in the AFR and in turn misfires?
now if i have a bad injector, wouldn't that be a cyl whatever misfire and not a random cyl misfire?
Maybe so I wasn't thinking bout that.
You said before that you had to "slot" the TPS. What exactly do you mean by that? You aren't talking about the old NY-Jbody way of using the LD9 TPS on a quad4 throttle body, are you? If so, ditch it and get the TPS for the throttle body you are using (i.e quad 4).
I have no signiture
i had to slot the bolt holes... i have the correct tps for the tb, i ordered the replacement for a pre-95 quad4 with 90degree bolt holes (vs the 180 degree bolt holes on the 95 tb)... i think my computer interprets the voltage differently hense needing to slot it....
eventually i'd like to bore the 95 tb to 60 mm and swap the throttle plate over
so FML... the car was running great for almost a week. Joe called me and said he thinks the p0300 that ive had since the motor was put in is due to the lightweight flywheel. ... last night the car starts running like @!#$, the exhaust started making loud popping noises, and the CEL started blinking. Cyl 2 misfire is the code that popped up. I swapped out coil packs, housing, and boots with my spares. this made the popping go away, but it still ran like @!#$... so i swapped in plugs with only 5k miles on them. cyl 1,2,&4's plugs looked normal, cyl 3 was jet black. With the new plugs in, the car idled right, but still ran like @!#$, randomly losing power and the wideband stayed above 17. I looked under the car and my 3" high flow cat that is 6" months old is glowing red on the back side of it...
so my cat isd jacked, but i need to figure out what exactly jacked it up.... the only thing i did yesterday related to the motor was put about 10 gal of Shell 93 octane gas in... i was originally thinking bad gas until i saw the cat....
at lunch today imma pull the cat off and investigate.
That's weird, a glowing red cat usually means its clogged.
yeah... i wonder how it got clogged so quickly though
My guess is, and god knows I could be way off, the one cylinder with the black spark plug is rich for some reason causing the random misfire and the extra richness can clog a cat.
The popping exhaust could be the extra fuel from the screwy cylinder igniting in the exhaust pipes. If im not mistaken --- on the AFR gauge also is for when it goes below 10-1, at least with mine thats what I read.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, March 30, 2011 10:34 AM
so removed the cat, found it burned to hell... i rememberd that two weeks ago i noticed cat material in the street in front of my house... i really didn't put two and two together at the time.
so i gutted the cat, put it back on the car... it runs a little better now, but sounds too raspy for me... as soon as i get this @!#$ right, i'll be putting another cat back in.
found the following codes in both pending and confirmed codes
p0203 injector 3 open (found plug came loose, this had to have happened last night when i was switching ignition peices out real quickly)
p0301 cyl 1 misfire
p0336 crankshaft position sensor circuit range / performance
i intend to clear the codes and idle it and see what comes back, as well as replace the spark plugs with brand new ones...
so now the troubleshooting begins... joy...
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, March 30, 2011 2:08 PM
Ok I'm gonna pretend to know what's going on now and deduct the the random cyl misfire was 1 and 3 but with the injector problem it was only showing in cyl 1. Which makes me now think its spark related.
last night, i cleared all the codes, and restarted the car. the tach is acting up, the p0336 code came back. I replaced the crank position sensor, the code still came back, i swapped out ICMs, the code still came back, i pulled the ecm to make sure it hadn't split open, no sign of damage... today i plan to check continuity at the wires... i am at a total loss if the wiring isn't foobarred... i dunno what to check next.
Are you still running the stock IDI setup? I know when I was running the stock IDI setup, my car ran like poop and I replaced everything with only a slight change in performance. When I did the Neon coil swap it was like a whole new car.
I guess what I am tryign to say is, the coil housing could be crack or bad, even though its new. Or you could have a bad coil, even if its new. The Neon coil swap costed me 50 bucks including wires(MSD). I would almost try that and see if it helps.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, March 31, 2011 4:12 AM
but would that rectify a P0336 crankshaft position sensor circuit range/performance code?
we put a borescope down the crank position sensor hole and found no issues with the reluctor wheel... thank god
i also had continuity between all my wires... at least up to one strand of copper
we put my stock injectors in and my spare ECM and restarted the car... the p0336 did not come back, leading me to think the old ECM took a dump...
Joe told me to drive it around with the stock injectors and make sure it runs half way decent, and put a few miles on it before we reload the tune on the new ECM
Atleast this way if it runs normal on the stock tune/injectors and you put the other tune/injectors and it starts up again youll be down to either tune or injectors.
300 miles on the new ECM now...
the car runs halfway decent. idling sucks but thats because its trying to idle at 700 on .430 lift .222 dur cams... the car also loses power above mid-throttle at certain RPMS... it feels like its running out of injector, which it probably is on the stock injectors with the high comp pistons and aggressive cams. otherwise it drives completely normal, and while crusing at 65 MPH, 2500 RPM in 5th gear, the wideband hangs out around 14.7
so far everything seems right... We're going to do the supercharger reflash on the new ECM and then tune from there...
Glad to hear the bugs are finally working out!
