too winey-
Why the ignition switch????????????????? I understand the fuel pump is "kicking on", so given the information (OP stated no voltage during crank and run) - there is an open ckt on the grey wire to the injectors (CKT# 120). Not sure where your coming from with the "grey wire doesn't mean anything" - if thats the case remove the wire from your vehicle and give us a report on your vehicle's performance - it's just extra weight, right?
Mike-
Be careful running a ground to the injectors (simulating an injector pulse) - don't hold it to ground for too long of a period. I would rather see you run a temporary jumper wire with 12V to the Hi side of the injectors (cavity A on the injector) and let the ECM fire them.
Just to be sure... lets make sure you are checking the voltage on the grey wire (CKT #120) properly. Unplug one of the injectors. Using a 12V test light, ground one end to the battery (neg) and securely probe the terminal of cavity A of the injector connector. Watch for a solid light during crank and key on.
Mike
The reason I say the switch is because I have had this happen in Ecotec swapped cars. On first start ups. Fuel pump would kick on but no fuel, no injectors working. Swap ign switch and bam get theft lock, do relearn and running car. I'm not saying the switch he put in is bad, but I do not think the system is reconizing it.
Reason I said grey wire does not mean anything is the pump is running.
FU Tuning
m dailey wrote:too winey-
Why the ignition switch????????????????? I understand the fuel pump is "kicking on", so given the information (OP stated no voltage during crank and run) - there is an open ckt on the grey wire to the injectors (CKT# 120). Not sure where your coming from with the "grey wire doesn't mean anything" - if thats the case remove the wire from your vehicle and give us a report on your vehicle's performance - it's just extra weight, right?
Mike-
Be careful running a ground to the injectors (simulating an injector pulse) - don't hold it to ground for too long of a period. I would rather see you run a temporary jumper wire with 12V to the Hi side of the injectors (cavity A on the injector) and let the ECM fire them.
Just to be sure... lets make sure you are checking the voltage on the grey wire (CKT #120) properly. Unplug one of the injectors. Using a 12V test light, ground one end to the battery (neg) and securely probe the terminal of cavity A of the injector connector. Watch for a solid light during crank and key on.
Mike
I was going to have the electrical engineer at work make up a simple Pulse width modulation circuit to test them.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Get noid lights and check to see if your injectors are electricity while cranking. They can be rented at O'reillys.
Also have you checked for continuity of your injector wires? to the fuse block? Im looking at the diagram right now and if your pump is running that eliminates a lot of possibilities as the injectors are on the same circuit as the pump. I could possibly be a wiring issue in the engine harness.
Wrench Monkey wrote:Get noid lights and check to see if your injectors are electricity while cranking. They can be rented at O'reillys.
I purchased a set from autozone......and they do not light at all.
Yes I have checked the continuity with a ohm meter, I'll recheck them back to the fuse block again.
My fuel pump kicks on fine, and I can turn it on or off inside HPTuners.
Tom thanks for the help.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, March 04, 2010 6:36 AM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Check for power to the common injector wire, then check for continuity from the injector to the pcm.
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Wrench Monkey wrote:Get noid lights and check to see if your injectors are electricity while cranking. They can be rented at O'reillys.
I purchased a set from autozone......and they do not light at all.
Yes I have checked the continuity with a ohm meter, I'll recheck them back to the fuse block again.
My fuel pump kicks on fine, and I can turn it on or off inside HPTuners.
Tom thanks for the help.
Wait! a year ago when you first made the post about your car not starting, I told you to check the injector circuit with a noid light and you said "Cranks like hell. Noid lights light up fine. "
At that time I had injectors but no spark......now I have spark and no fuel
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Jake wrote:subscribed'.
good luck!
x2
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Unfortunately or fortunately there are 7 of us with 99Z's that are having the EXACT same problem.
Mike Nahodil
marshall smock
shane sarna
Greg B
and a few more, but forgot there names.......I believe everyone's z24 is from the lordstown plant. 11th digit in VIN is 7.
This is how it goes for most.....
Replace fuel pump because it died......
Replace Crank Position sensor, after tach goes to 8,000rpm and stays there.....
Replace PCM, after nothing else makes sence.....
Everything goes crazy.
A few have sold their cars, because they can not fix the problem. One guy rewired his entire car to a 2000 to fix the problem.
This is the start of the craziness for me.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, March 10, 2010 11:51 AM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
@!#$, this scares me! I better check my VIN!
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Wow, just checked my VIN. 11th digit is a 7. I'm taking a 5000 mile trip with the Cav in a week. *Crosses fingers*
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Luke, you would happen to have an extra 99 gauge cluster with digital odometer would you.......
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
I know i could figure it out if i was there
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Luke, you would happen to have an extra 99 gauge cluster with digital odometer would you.......
I don't...although there is a huuuuge junk yard a few hours away that I could almost guarantee to find one in. I'm headed that way in 3 or 4 weeks.
2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R
Keep me in mind if you head that way.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
check this out...
Also. Maybe there is a problem with your racetronix wiring harness?????
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Roofy wrote:check this out...
Also. Maybe there is a problem with your racetronix wiring harness?????
His fuel pump is working.
FU Tuning
I know that, but the harness is different from the factory one. Maybe there is a fault in the harness not letting it start???? Also another thought. Check the oil pressure switch and wiring. I believe these cars have a safety override that will cut fuel injector pulsewidth if there is low oil pressure.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Roofy wrote:I know that, but the harness is different from the factory one. Maybe there is a fault in the harness not letting it start???? Also another thought. Check the oil pressure switch and wiring. I believe these cars have a safety override that will cut fuel injector pulsewidth if there is low oil pressure.
The harness simply plugs in between the stock wiring at the pump and the pump. It does not affect anything else in the system.
Now that oil pressure switch is interesting. I have heard of that years ago, but never seen anything to support it. hmmm.
FU Tuning
If it ends up bing the oil pressure switch or circuit, I want a cookie!!!!
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
I replaced the oil pressure switch months ago, and at that time checked the wiring.
I was going to go over and work on the cav....but it is now snowing.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
^^^ If you could tow it here, I'd hook up my Snap-On Modus scanner and figure it out. Sux that you are over 100 miles away!!!
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!