Just thinking after designing the rough sketch and template ones for my car, but this is something low priced and easy for anyone to take advantage off....
mainly for those withy bumpers with alot of extra air holes and such, and do race...
what do they do? mainly focus, or directs air to where its needed, instead of just letting it go everywhere into every opening.
has anyone else done or thought about this?
ive thought about turning my foglight holes into brake ducts but havent really gotten around to it yet. i kinda need to leave my front open for the IC and rad though. LOL
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
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Actually, I've been in the planning stages of just such a project. I was planning on using an air box such as you have, and running a fresh air tube to it. A friend of mine is an AFCO Dealer and I was looking at the AFCO #70875 Air Duct-Angle Type(5"X9")-Black and mounting it somewhere on th front, probably in a section of the front air dam. Next would be # 70885 Brake Duct Hose 3"X10' and running that up to the air box. I will probably have to trim the lower flange on the Air Duct, and section part of the air dam to get it to fit. Also looking at some screening to cover the Air Duct, to keep debris out of the Duct hose and air box.
I know the air that close to the road surface would be warmer than someplace higher, but it would still be cooler than what would be picked up from the engine compartment w/o the air box. Another option is to mount the Duct behind the grill in the front bumper, which would have a slightly higher frontal pressure at speed. A frontal mounting point should give you a positive pressure at any thing above 35mph. The frontal area is the point of greatest pressure on a vehicle in motion, next would be at the windshield cowl. Most hood scoops actually would need to be mounted moderately high to get any real positive pressure, just look at the Pro-Stock Drag cars for example.
I don't think this mod alone will net any great power gains, but if combined with a coated header, air box and intake wrap, combined with the other air-flow mods allot of us N/A ppl have it could net us a tenth or so and a little more speed on the top end.
I have actually thought about doing this with my IF front once I boost my car. I was thinking of a way to take one of the vents and running some type of ductwork to the wheel well to keep the brakes cool.
When I still had my 2.2 bumper I cut out the left bumper light and did a quick ducting job to work around the intake. I actually saw around 25-30 more miles on a tank of gas.
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Event you saw the front of my car right? I took the stock front end and cut the grill holes bigger well behind themI have ducts that feed toward the calipers to keep them cool.
I think this is what your talking about isn't it? I'm also ducting air up and into the hole where the air filter bong went thu to help direct cool air to the Injen intake.
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your brakes are so freaking huge you shouldnt have any fade
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
jackalope wrote:Event you saw the front of my car right? I took the stock front end and cut the grill holes bigger well behind themI have ducts that feed toward the calipers to keep them cool.
I think this is what your talking about isn't it? I'm also ducting air up and into the hole where the air filter bong went thu to help direct cool air to the Injen intake.
actually that is what i am talking about. i was wondering did the bumpers switch to a bigger opening style, even though it was still a stock look.
MadJack, exactly. Zach hilton has the same bumper as i, and when you look at the opening in the front, its like, the radiator isnt as wide as the opening. which got me thinking about converging and directing the air flow more towards the center instead of where it can just go around the sides....
mainly because
transcooler---then ac condensor----then radiator.
dont have a cooling prob or anything as i have the fan override switch if need be, but just looking at smaller thing to make it more efficient. i also upgraded my old one to welded aluminum.
Zach, that could def benefit alot of people, especially with the stock size brakes.
the more and more i learn its the small things alot of the higher end cars have, that make small differences that add up...
not sure if anyone noticed, but even hyundais are starting to get louvers on the insides of the wheel wells on the backsides of the front bumpers.... releases any trapped air that gets caught from the front accoding to their dealership.
With that front bumper, you should be able to put in the brake ducts, an air duct and still have room for some air deflector panels to direct the air through the radiator. Most aftermarket bumpers are styled after racing theams, thats why all the openings, so why not put them to use.
The outer openings would work great for the brake ducts. Next to that at the radiused edge of the center opening, you should be able to fit the air inlet. With whats left of the opening, shape the air deflectors to force the air through the radiator. I'd get some black roll plastic(such as used on racecars) to make the air deflector. It bends almost like sheet metal, it's pliable, flexable and light wieght. To hold segments together drill and pop rivet it, just make sure to use backing washers and rivets long enough to go through 2 layers of platic. The hardest part is going to be attatching it to the inside of the bumper, with-out the rivets showing, but I don't think that would be too difficult to do.
Event,
I've looked at a few cars that have this type of duct work and it seems that there really wouldn't be too much too doing that. I'm not sure which would be more beneficial, running it from the two openings directly beside the opening for the radiator, or the two rectangular opening at the bottom of the bumper.
I think it would work better using the bottom two vents because it would allow the middle smaller openings to re-direct air to areas you were speaking of.
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I completely stripped my fender lining out from the car and air gets through nicely now hehe! Rear bumper was designed with those openings in the back so that covers that area. Only thig I have to really mess around with is stabilizers for the sides of the bumper(front) as they have a small sway in the wind when going over 50mph........
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What Zach spoke of would work also, but by the looks of the opening, the upper openings might provide more surface area to collect more air. Really it all comes down to where you want the most air flow; the radiator, the brakes or the intake and whether or not you want/have fog light in the lower openings.
Bballjamal (Cav-AtL) wrote:I completely stripped my fender lining out from the car and air gets through nicely now hehe! Rear bumper was designed with those openings in the back so that covers that area. Only thig I have to really mess around with is stabilizers for the sides of the bumper(front) as they have a small sway in the wind when going over 50mph........
Tell me you at least have the fender liners left from the behind the front wheel. Leaving those exposed can cause dirt/salt/ and anything else you can think of to get up in there and cause things to rust over time. I've seen it happen on alot of cars.
MadJack,
I agree with the better surface opening but duct work could be ran much easier from the bottom and give you more room to play with the area you have left over for other things.
Really it would be a trial and error, I don't know if I'll get a chance to try it out this year or have to wait till spring to really start on it.
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I used to have a duct into my stock airbox years ago. It seemed to work alright. The filter got alot dirtier than without it, but thats to be expected.
I have all the brackets and tubing to run my brake cooling ducts from the center of my bumper. I just have to install it all.
I toyed with the idea of a shroud in front of the radiator, but it wouldn't have done much, considering I'm already running the 6cyl radiator which dropped temps by 20+ degrees.
i thought about doing this as well, Brake ducting, but, i found that since i live near the water, And regularly drive through flooded roads, Something about water blasting my brakes bothered me.
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James Cahill wrote:I used to have a duct into my stock airbox years ago. It seemed to work alright. The filter got alot dirtier than without it, but thats to be expected.
I have all the brackets and tubing to run my brake cooling ducts from the center of my bumper. I just have to install it all.
I toyed with the idea of a shroud in front of the radiator, but it wouldn't have done much, considering I'm already running the 6cyl radiator which dropped temps by 20+ degrees.
thats my main ordeal right now... the radiator i am about to put in is a griffin aftermarket.
but from the pic of your car, it seems like the opening is exactly the size of the radiator...
the 95-99 rksport one is slightly wider. thinking about closing off the excessive....
Dam-it Muffins (Event) wrote:thats my main ordeal right now... the radiator i am about to put in is a griffin aftermarket.
but from the pic of your car, it seems like the opening is exactly the size of the radiator...
the 95-99 rksport one is slightly wider. thinking about closing off the excessive....
The 4 cyl rad is just a tad smaller than the opening, while the 6 cyl is just a tad bigger. I don't have A/C, and no trans cooler, so there is nothing between the rad and the bumper. Even after I cut the opening in my grille, I noticed an improvement, and that was with the 4 cyl rad. I still run the stock 4 cyl fan, and it keeps temps right around 200-210 driving, 220-230 at idle. If the Griffin is alot wider than the opening, I would do something like a shroud if I were you, especially since you've got the condenser and cooler in there.
James Cahill wrote:Dam-it Muffins (Event) wrote:thats my main ordeal right now... the radiator i am about to put in is a griffin aftermarket.
but from the pic of your car, it seems like the opening is exactly the size of the radiator...
the 95-99 rksport one is slightly wider. thinking about closing off the excessive....
The 4 cyl rad is just a tad smaller than the opening, while the 6 cyl is just a tad bigger. I don't have A/C, and no trans cooler, so there is nothing between the rad and the bumper. Even after I cut the opening in my grille, I noticed an improvement, and that was with the 4 cyl rad. I still run the stock 4 cyl fan, and it keeps temps right around 200-210 driving, 220-230 at idle. If the Griffin is alot wider than the opening, I would do something like a shroud if I were you, especially since you've got the condenser and cooler in there.
yeah i have a FAL tranny cooler now, but will be upgrading to a BM stacked plate cooler once the rad goes in.... and the AC condenser will still be there as well. so def should be something i am planning to do.
what thermostat do you run?
I don't know.....whatever the stock one is for a 95
Maybe 160? I think thats about the only piece under the hood not swapped or modified
The only time I ever had a cooling problem was when I first put the old body kit I had on. The airflow under the car was terrible. I watched my trans temps go up maybe 40 degrees and coolant went up maybe 20. Then I added a PermaCool trans cooler and they dropped back to an acceptable level.
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the one i have in my view looks better and was cheaper
thing is, its not COLD air... its merely a heat sheild.... but someone will think they will get arctic air from adding it....
i garuntee.
