hey, i was looking at car customs and they have a set of intake and exhaust valves for 200 dollars with free shipping. i was going to get them after i got a pulley, but thats not bad. i was wondering if putting these into the block would be beneficial with no other engine work done. i do have an intake, and full exhaust on a side note. for those who are building ur eco let me know if these work w/o other head work. thanks,
AkA joe m.
Ricer ELIMINATOR!
yes they would be beneficial just for the fact they allow more air in might not be dramatic but it will definitely help and yes the valves go in the head not block hahahaha
The one, the only, ME.
not trying to threadjack or anything but i didnt want to start a new thread for the same question. what about on the 95-97 2.2 ohv? are they still beneficial without any other type of engine work|? is there anything else i need to install these or is it just taking out the old ones and putting in the new ones?
04eco (roy) wrote:yes they would be beneficial just for the fact they allow more air in might not be dramatic but it will definitely help and yes the valves go in the head not block hahahaha
lol head not block, sorry
well ya common sense says if it lets more in, then it will work. but i was just waiting to see if someone would call me stupid for wanting to put them in w/o other head work. lol.
AkA joe m.
Ricer ELIMINATOR!
I wouldn't call you stupid, but you'd be wise to have head work done at the time you
install new valves. While the valves themselves may have some beneifts, to get the most
gains from them, you would want your head machined (i.e. 3 or 5-way valve seat cutting,
polishing, port-matching).
Remember that most engine components, particularly performance upgrades, work in
conjunction with many other components. For example, your higher-flowing air intake
and exhaust will benefit from better engine breathing, such as what you'd get from
some basic head work and new valves.
Again, it's not stupid to put them in without additional work, but you'll be better off if you
only have to tear the head apart once.
While not an exact comparison, think of it this way...
You can put a higher flowing muffler and/or cat on your exhaust and perhaps get some gains,
but if you also replace the exhaust piping, you will get more gains.
-Ferrite
they are just a stock replacement stainless steel valve, they are not a bigger diameter or anything and with no other head work you wont see a differance at all.
Now if you get bigger than stock valves, like 1mm oversize and have the head ported and polished and better valve springs, and then bigger cams, yes you will see a very nice power gain.
But nothing from the valves alone. The stainless steel valves are basically designed for higher temps caused by boost, or N2O.
Mike
1992 GMC Sonoma GT #492. Oh, Its just a stock V6!
1999 Cavalier Coupe, daily driver, 2200/M5. Mods and pics are in my registry.
+
That pretty much says it all.
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so basically theyre a waste of money if i dont plan on doing any head work? what if i just port and polish the head? would it be the same thing if i use my stock valves? thanks alot
Orlandomon wrote:so basically theyre a waste of money if i dont plan on doing any head work? what if i just port and polish the head? would it be the same thing if i use my stock valves? thanks alot
if you port and polish your head, you might as well spend the small amount of money for Karo's awesome valves (available from Carcustoms.net)
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
Orlandomon wrote:so basically theyre a waste of money if i dont plan on doing any head work? what if i just port and polish the head? would it be the same thing if i use my stock valves? thanks alot
no they are lighter and flow allot better than stock valves. you could have the machine shop remove the valves and install the new seats (uncut) and take the head home and blend in the bowl's. Then take it back and have them finish up the job. It is not all that hard
he// you can type then you can blend in the bowl areas.
see ya!
How do they flow better? is the shap different then the stock valve? does it flow better just because its swirl polished? I'm trying to understand here.
Now, lighter might be a nice benefit, cause then the cam wouldn't have to work as hard to push them down, freeing up some power there. (rite?)
spotabbe do u mean the regular valves or the + 1 mm valves? i dont know anything about this thats y im asking, if i get the +1 valves what else is necessary for my car in order to run good? a cam? dang i have alot of questions.
Orlandomon wrote:spotabbe do u mean the regular valves or the + 1 mm valves? i dont know anything about this thats y im asking, if i get the +1 valves what else is necessary for my car in order to run good? a cam? dang i have alot of questions.
stock size valves unless you are machining your head
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
ok thanks, so the stock size valves will give me gains? even if their minimal? some people say it wont, others say it will..... im lost.
just get the thign p&p'd since your already going to have it off
Save a Tranny, Roll-on
15.3@88m.p.h.(I/E)
15.2@94m.p.h.(S/C'd)
15.5@89m.p.h.(Stock GTP)
