I have a 2005 ls sedan,with bomx air intake,dynomax muffler,lower engine mount.I won't to get more top end out of the eco,what would you guys recommend doing.I'm not on any budgit so anything will be very helpful.
nasty04cav wrote:Larger bore tb (rsm or revco),4-1 header (rsm or pacesetter) or if your really not on a budget, nitrous, turbo, supercharger. any of those will give power in the whole rpm band.
what he said... definately headwork and a stand-alone engine management like an AEM EMS... high-compression pistons...
prolly the biggest thing would be upgrading the valvetrain after all the typical bolt-ons... upgraded springs, valves and fuel mapping...
since you're not on a budget, that is...
Hey Tim what exactly are you switching to when updating the springs and valves in that Eco. I would be interested in such but have heard a few having problems with matching valves/springs with current cams.
I guess everyone forgot one of the most important bolt-ons to getting more top end... get a new converter and catback. Eco catbacks are very slim, oh and so are the headers. I would do the converter and catback first. If you decide to go turbo, then work your way from there. If you decide to stay N/A, then next thing should be a 4-1 header. Main thing though, get your high-capacity air-flow going first before you do anything else. Just my opinion if you want to unleash your top-end what sooner. Keeping it stock and upgrading will only limit your gains.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2208703
well, dario, in my post I said "after all the typical bolt-ons"... I assumed he knew about intake/exhaust stuff. and Wayne, I wasn't specifically stating any springs and valves as I have not actually gotten that far on mine. I simply was stating that better springs and lighter valves would be needed to get the most out of a fuel mapping to the top end as more than our pititful 6400RPM would be needed...
Decide whether or not you're gonna turbo it. If you do, then do a hi flow cat and exhaust, but if you're going to stay N/A or blow it, do a header at the same time. It'll be cheaper that way.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2265283
you should try an aftermarket intake manifold w/ shorter runners
living a lie since 1988
you should also buy my RSM rank pulley
where can I get a aftermarket intake manifold w/ short runners at:
Well the suggestions that you guys are giving in fact can help his top end but you guys are missing a key element about some of the things you have stated...he'll lose low end power.
A bigger throttle body and a big port job on your cylinder head (mainly talking about a 5 angle port job)...these will yield better top end but your low end will suffer. I know this from personal experience. Velocity is the biggest issue. When you have these upgrades that are much bigger than stock, it's going to take longer to reach the full potential of the bigger size. With our RPM band being kind of short compared to high revving import motors (like Hondas for example), we aren't going to use the full potential of bigger parts like these (Higher Revs = More Air Needed).
My suggestion is not to just try and gain specifically power in 1 area of your powerband but try and have a strong powerband from start to finish. Our motors were meant to be "torquey" and geared to gain power in the lower RPMs, to throw it off and try and shift it upwards you might hurt your performance without properly upgrading.
Tim wrote:our pititful 6400RPM
Our 6400 RPM limit isn't that bad and honestly, unless you have a great deal of modifications, you're not even going to be making much power past 5800 RPMs. From the dynos I've seen with people who had bolt ons, they start to drop off power in that area, so there would honestly be no reason to rev that high.
You were stating that if he did change the springs and valves that it could help his top end and help him rev higher, which is true but you would need to change 2 more factors in order to rev higher than that and actually make power:
1. A source for more air being supplied to the motor - If you're running naturally aspirated, you would need a "bigger" camshaft grind, something more on the wild side. If you're turbo'd, you would need a turbo that is big enough to still build boost above those RPMs. If you're supercharged, the higher you rev, the faster the turbines spin in the supercharger, the more air is supplied. The only thing I would check is what your supercharger can safely rev up to without causing any heat-soaking issues.
2. You need to find a way to bypass the fuel cut off (limiter) - Standalone is usually suggested or you would have to do the "three letter" switch modification (if you've been on the JBO long enough, you would know what that is).
But especially #1, if you can't find a means to supply more air, it's worthless revving that high.
Quote:
where can I get a aftermarket intake manifold w/ short runners at:
Instead of getting an aftermarket one that would cost alot of money compared to the gains, go to your local Saab dealership and tell them you want the intake manifold and gasket from a 2003-2006 Saab 9-3 with the 2.0 Turbo Motor. The motor that it comes off is an 2.0 ECOTEC motor (the same ECOTEC motor you see in the Cobalts and Redlines except it's turbocharged). This is a perfect fit onto your cylinder head. I would suggest having it ported before installing it. Not many have tried this idea (I will be one day when I get some cash and other things taken care of) but the gains on it should be alright for someone who is naturally aspirated.
This is just a suggestion...
Last thing I want to say is don't do anything until you are sure of what your goal is as far as power (and a realistic goal) and how much money you are looking to invest in your car. Going out and buying parts and not having a set plan will just lead to gratuitous spending. Do some research, ask some questions, than spend your money. This is probably the best thing you can do at this point.
Good luck. If you have anymore questions, just ask.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
