make your own? that should be interesting
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Only reason why i ask, i've been considering making my own for a while and wanted to decide on a direction...
If you want some direction, tell me what your horse power goal (at the wheels) is , and what motor you have.
I ll tell you what dimentions the propper 4 into 1 header should be.
Ive spent the last 2 years studying exhaust and intake theory. It would be very hard for you to make a guess unless you were an engineer.
There are also some companies that offer a consulting service (for a cost) if you want thier advice on building your own header.
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The 4-2-1 header will give you gains from low to mid powerband. The 4-1 Header (most popular) will help mostly up top.
This is somewhat true but its not really a rule of thumb.
Interference type headers (tri-Y) tend to help mid range BUT most of the tri-Y headers sold for our cars are not built propperly.
If you build a 4 into 1 long tube header DEPENDING on the length and the size of the runners it can be made to help top or bottom end power but this is dependent on the use of sound wave an resonance tuning to help with scavenging.
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Some things you need to consider when building your own header:
1)Tube size (header tube diameter, collector diameter)
2)Tube length
3)collector size
4)collector length
5)wether its true equal length
6)collector shape
7)port matched flange
All of the above effect power.
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Those who understand the subject, which is better?
By the way, to answer your first question, a propperly designed 4 into 1 header is a better header. Tri-Y has alot of believers but after reading research papers on the subject, it is much more difficult to produce consistent results with a Tri-Y design. If your building it yourself there are alot less variables to consider with a 4 into 1 header.
For tri Y some additional considerations are; propper firing order and the length of the branches before the Y joint.
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I'm not going for anything big, i really only want around 145-150 whp out of a 96 ln2. Nothing exotic, just something to get my pink dialy driver a little more up an at em...
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OK, well heres some specs based on 145-150hp
1)Tube size-1 1/2 O/D
2)Tube length-44 inches, (this will focus on power in the 4600 rpm range) This is measured from the valve to the collector (not from the flange)
3)collector size-collector O/D 2 1/4inch (this will focus on bottom end power)
4)collector length- use a 5inch taper *(collector body should be at least 5 inches long)
5)wether its true equal length- This is very important, the header from the flange to collector must be within an inch of varriation between runners.
6)collector shape- the merge of the 4 tubes should be formed to a + pattern like this:
http://www.headersbyed.com/carhdrs.htm#Cross+Entry1
7)port matched flange- You dont have to go too crazy here, just make sure your flange is propperly matched to the ports.
The tube size and length is matched to the bore and stroke of your motor as well as your expected HP number. Good luck with your project.
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Jegs sells an item called an o2 sim... Surmspedlw it's required to keep the cel off after equipping headers or a high flow cat. It plugs into the aft sensor and i was wondering if it really does what it claims or if it's not necessary... If i wasn't posting from my phone i'd have the p/n...
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When I had 2.5inch exhaust on my 2.4 with a high flow cat I didnt bother with the O2 sim. I just used an adjustable FPR to get the propper fuel ratio and then I didnt get any check engine lights.
People have used these sucessfully.If you have to pass a visual emisions test for OBD2 you will probably fail if they see it. As well from what Ive heard a check engine light will also fail you.
I dont know 100% though. There was no emissions testing where I lived.
Basiclly my point is you do not have to run a sim just because you have a high flow cat. It really depends on how your breathing mods effect your air fuel ratio.
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