Is any one out there running Clevitte 77 bearings in the 2.2 ecotec? I have been looking for them and not found anything on them. just wondering if there was such a thing for the ecotec or if i should be putting replacement stock bearings back in the bottom end.

I have heard from ryne that the stock bearings are tuff enough as i was looking at going with clevittes as well in mine..phil

I remember reading in the GM atricle for their 800hp ecotec that they used the stockers up til about the 700hp range, then they had to change them out. So you should be good to go.

GM stock bearings are the best bet. Clevite doesn't even make bearings for it because theres no need.

My stock ones, main and rod, looked perfect even after all the abuse I put to them.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

Does any one know were to find some new stock bearings? I work at a parts stock and they dont carey they for my engine only stuff for the 2200/2.2 and the 2.4's
I have these stockers that came with this spare engine and there are scratched to all hell! with oil on them and free spinning the crank on have of them ... it has extreme resistance. and its almost seased up when the crank is fully inclosed in the block.

Main and Rod bearings from Parts America / Advance Auto Parts.


Edit: They are also available in oversizes, is you need to turn and/or polish the crank.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, October 08, 2006 1:19 PM

GM dealership. Doesn't cost too much and you'll get the real deal. I wouldn't trust ANY aftermarket bearings after seeing my stock ones vs. the Clevites that came out of my buddies motor with 4K on them. His had already worn all the way down to the bronze.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:GM dealership. Doesn't cost too much and you'll get the real deal. I wouldn't trust ANY aftermarket bearings after seeing my stock ones vs. the Clevites that came out of my buddies motor with 4K on them. His had already worn all the way down to the bronze.

Holy Hell!! thats insane!

now sounds like a newbie questions but i cant tell from my spare engine. Are there wriste pin bearings? and is there any way to get new main bolts? like upgraded or no need?


Hypsy, here are some questions for you. Were did you tap inot on the block for your oil feed for your turbo kit? and can you give any idea on were i should put the oil return hole or will the instructions show/tell me were to do that with the stage two kit?

also you have a PM comeing your way.

Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote: I wouldn't trust ANY aftermarket bearings after seeing my stock ones vs. the Clevites that came out of my buddies motor with 4K on them. His had already worn all the way down to the bronze.

Nothing against the OE bearings, but all I've ever used has been Clevite or Speed Pro / Sealed Power bearings, with nothing but good results. The only time I've ever seen any wiped out bearing was due to assembly error, this being insufficiant / excessive bearing clearance or a dry start.

I always check the bearing clearances before assembly, preferrably with a micrometer and dial bore gauge / snap gauge. I have used Plasi-gauge, which is okay, but prefer to use a gauge and mic.

When assembling an engine, I always prelube the bearings with a red assembly lube. It's heavy enough and sticky enough to stay in place for a few weeks and won't clog you oil filter like moley based cam lube does. The shop I worked at use Lucas Oil Stabilizer, which is heavy and sticky like assembly lube and just as effective, but less expensive to buy in bulk quntities. I also like to prime the oil pump. On the 2.2 I used the oil pump shaft from a 2.8L V6 as a pump primer. It's a hex shaft the same size as the 2.2's oil pump drive, but long enough to reach out of the oil pump drive shaft hole. You have to do this before you install the intake runners, or use a 1/4 drive extension and socket (forgot what size it was) and turn the pump till oil starts comming out the rocker arms, turn the crank 180* and turn the pump again and finally repeat this two more times. This will ensure you got oil in all the lifters and pushrods and over each rocker arm, let alone through all the main journal and to the rod journals. ( YAWN!! I know this proceedure wont apply to the GM DOHC motors, since the oil pump is driven off the turning crank, but you can see how critical I am with my motor assembly proceedures. Attention to detail!)

I haven't seen it, but have heard of a crank being polished in the wrong direction, causing the bearing to be wiped out. What happens there is the polishing proceedure leave "scales" like on a fish. These scale point in the direction of polishing and, if polished in the wrong direction can strip the top layer off the bearing, just like rubbing a fish in the wrong direction.

This motor was built 100% right. It did this to two sets of bearings from Clevite. They put in GM ones and they worked perfectly. No bronze showing even after 45 12 second passes on the motor and like 10K on the street.



I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26

ok look... go to gm because i just went through all of this not too long ago. you can get all the bearings and bolts from them. give them 2-3 days for delivery. shouldnt cost more than $70 for both bearings, and i think the main bolts are $4 a piece or something. thats what i paid for them atleast. im doing probably the same build you are.