So on our fully built 2200 which fired up on the first crank seems to be having issues getting the damn oil pan to seal against the block. Rubber Gasket, Cork gasket didn't work... Then went directly to GM and got their now Grey gasket maker/ sealant i don't remember exactly WTF it was called but when we took the stock pan off the motor is was a just a black gob of goo all around it. So we used this method which had to let sit for 24 hrs for fully curing. Mind you we have a big show to be attending this weekend and time isn't on our side. After 26 hrs of sit time we fired her back up again and the god damn thing still leaks out of the back corner near the tranny. Its just dribbling. Were pissed off and made sure all the bolts were to spec 89ft/lbs...
which they were. So we drop the pan once AGAIN... and come to find out the inside gasket was still like cake batter. It had its 24+ hrs to harden.. What gives? We took the pan off our stock motor and i made sure the surface was clean and dry to both mating surfaces again... We have to trailer the sunfire to the show tomorrow, but if it doesn't work this time what has everyone else used? This GM stuff is $20/ tube and its a small tube.
Anyone else having/ had this damn issue? This is the only thing stopping us from breaking in the engine.
Thanks in advance.
Errrr.... maybe that was Inch/lbs then. I don't remember for sure anymore, it's just been giving us a pain in the ass.
three days
the shop that fixed my 2200 would give me my car back any less than 3 days after they did the oil pan.....
now I see why
I just cant drive 55
Well, were probably just going to let it keep setting then. Its not my call tho, since its chris's car. Any others have their wait times for this crap?
89 ft/lbs...lol, Cody.
Well, like Cody said, this is a stupid problem that's keeping the car from running, but we're working on it. We bought another tube of the stuff and applied it before the show. We're going to let it cure all weekend and try'er again on Monday. I think we'll be alright this time around. I know there's more guys on here who've dropped the pan on their motors, though...same issues?
Ok we let this @!#$ sit for 7 days....
We still have a @!#$ leak. Anyone got any ideas to try now, because we are flat out of them.
Have you looked at the pan? or the block, for any surfaces that are not fully flat? You could buy a new oil pan from GM. I did that a while back, and it was like $90.
Ive always used 3M block High temp silicone (Black), Cure time was quick, Never had a problem with it. Even when using cork gasket.
Are you sure its the pan leaking and not the rear crank seal?
Just a thought.
So... you'd think you could get a pan sealed, right? It's easy enough on most engines. What if you are sealing the pan?
Like mentioned, check for bent / raised areas. Check rear main. Was the engine sealed before, or is this a fresh rebuild? Check for leaks above the flywheel.
I use rubber gasket. GMS or GMRTV isn't my first choice by any means. Pull down pan, clean everything. Don't leave a single spot of oil on the block. Get some 3M weatherstrip adhesive (I don't mess with cheaper brands). Put some dabs of RTV in the areas where the rear main cap meets the block and where the timing cover meets the block. Then put the weatherstrip adhesive on the gasket and raise it up to the block. Using washers for spacers, gently screw the pan bolts into the block to hold the gasket tight while the glue dries. Give it an hour or so and it should stick to the block when you pull the pan bolts out. Put a few more dabs of RTV on the gasket but the same areas as before. Then install the pan.
An old trick when you have to use RTV is to tighten the pan until the RTV starts to squeeze out, then stop for 15-20 minutes. This allows the RTV to start curing and to form a skin. Finish tightening as normal. RTV won't cure if there's no oxygen so sealing it up in the pan right away can cause it to take longer to cure.
-->Slow
sounds like the pan may be warped.
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in case you are wondering...that little bottle of grey stuff is the same as permatex ultra grey. you can get a BIG tube for about $8 at a parts store. I am hoping I dont have this problem.....well see shortly.
Did you have to actually run the motor to see the leaking, in the car, or is this like a trial run on a bench?
the motor was just fully rebuilt with everything you can name on it done after we blew up the stock one last fall due to oil pump failure. Were going to drop the tranny and try to see exactly where its coming out of. Its coming from what we think the rear part of the pan near the tranny and fly wheel. Ryan is getting very good at pulling trannies out of this sunfire.... lol. This is going to be the 4th time i think.
