does the resistior idea for the wir intake air sensor acuttaly work like the ppl on ebay say
soo the resistor donst make the air flow more a seem colder to the ecu
Coorect me if I am wrong but the whole point of it is to trick the ecu into thinking it has colder air. When it has cooler more dense air it adds more fuel, but does it change the timing advance any when tricked into thinking it has colder air. If it runs richer it would be less prone to detonation and then the knock sensor would not sense as much knock and pull timing accordingly right or am I missing something here?
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
Running rich doesn't keep you from detonating. At the point you detonate you've probably already broke something. Pinging is what the knock sensor listens for and is like a low level detonation. If you have your car running right it won't be pulling timing from the knock sensor anyway.
The point is, fuel is pointless unless you have the oxygen to back it up. The density difference between 40 degrees and 80 degrees certainly doesn't account for the 15-30hp increase that those resistors claim. The resistor doesn't do anything, and can actually damage your engine. Running TOO rich is just as bad as running too lean, it washes the oil coating off the cylinder walls and leads to premature ring failure (of course this is over significant time).
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
Wade Jarvis wrote:Coorect me if I am wrong but the whole point of it is to trick the ecu into thinking it has colder air. When it has cooler more dense air it adds more fuel, but does it change the timing advance any when tricked into thinking it has colder air. If it runs richer it would be less prone to detonation and then the knock sensor would not sense as much knock and pull timing accordingly right or am I missing something here?
A healthy motor will have no KR. When the ecu starts dumping more fuel into your engine, without the sufficient air, you get major power
LOSS and very very very poor gas mileage. The resistors are a plague to the automotive community.
DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON RESISTORS!
I race at a circle track I was told by the dealer that if I unplugged it that the ecm would think its 40 degrees out and richin the fuel up. Witch is great if you don't care about your engine like I do. If you drive it daily DON'T do it. But it is cool because my manifold is glowing and when I let off I get some big flames shooting out the side
throttle response is better and it shifts like a madman
^ Its running rich and shifting "like a madman" because your ECU is running in limp mode. You're also running on your lowest timing table with as much retard as possible. Plug it back in and leave it hanging somewhere out of the way and I bet your car will run faster.
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
Wow... this thread... is bad.
Lock please?
Hey quicklilcav... you really need to increase your text size a little man, it hurtz my eyes trying to read it.
NONE of these gimmiks work, thats all you really need to know. If you could trick the car into increasing the timing without effecting the mixture it would work, but none of these "tricks" seem to do that. You wan't to have your fpr close to 14.7 no matter how much power your making, wich the computer already does on it's own.
Power isn't created just by adding more air and fuel either. It has to be done efficiantly too.
A car with a mild cat back exaust, cool air intake, and some good street cams, will run better, and out perform a car with every ricer inspired bolt on piece of crap on the market. There's not a cheap or free way to make horsepower on our cars.
Even an intake and exaust really doesn't make ours any noticabley faster, it just increases throttle response.
Quote:
You wan't to have your fpr close to 14.7 no matter how much power your making, wich the computer already does on it's own.
Actually thats very incorrect. Best power is made at an AFR MUCH richer than 14.7:1. 14.7:1 is Stoichiometric, which means its the ratio at which fuel burns most completely, its more of an emissions thing than anything else. Best fuel economy is much leaner, around 17:1, best power is around 12.5-13:1. And the ECU doesn't hold an AFR, only during cruise, other places it calculates it based on how much air is going in and if you are accelerating or decelerating.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, August 22, 2007 11:56 AM
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
Leaner = power
My IAT sensor hangs in the engine bay... thinks the air is nice and warm... less fuel... more power.. more fuel economy too
(and no, I'm not kidding... I've done this for years now...)
...j
WTB: 03 Cavalier centre trunk silver bowtie bar... email me!
I don't like to refute your opinions Lenko, but in this case, Ron is correct. From what I have been told in the past though is that , chemically, the optimal AFR to extract the most HP from a NA motor is around 13.5-13.8. Air isn't what burns, it is the fuel in the presence of oxygen that burns from an initial activation energy (ala the spark). Running leaner than stoich can only reduces the amount of HP you make, because you run out of the needed potential energy.
-
"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
Not opinion, fact. You forget that J-cars usually run rich from the factory. Lean 'em out a bit, you get stoich. I have a wideband to back me up
Ron's right too, we're essentially saying the same thing in different ways
But to the original poster... Ebay mods are just about always crap... there is no such thing as cheap reliable horsepower.
...j
WTB: 03 Cavalier centre trunk silver bowtie bar... email me!
I digress on that fact, as I have seen, dyno proven, that using your leaf blower to supercharge the air into your engine can increase the power by at least 10 WHP.
------------------------------------
We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
We're getting off topic here
But while we're at it.... was the leaf blower powered by the car?
...j
WTB: 03 Cavalier centre trunk silver bowtie bar... email me!
John Lenko wrote:Not opinion, fact. You forget that J-cars usually run rich from the factory. Lean 'em out a bit, you get stoich. I have a wideband to back me up
Ron's right too, we're essentially saying the same thing in different ways
But to the original poster... Ebay mods are just about always crap... there is no such thing as cheap reliable horsepower.
...j
that's fine... It was pretty much this statement that I misinterpreted then:
John Lenko wrote:Leaner = power
Sorry John.
-
"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
No, it was gas-powered, but someone bungee corded it into their F-150 and took it to the 1/4 mile track. It shaved off a second or two on the runs.
------------------------------------
We all drive in a yellow Cavalier...
