Just wondering if you guys have any suggestions on balancing a crank pulley..
My friend has a nice 5 axis CNC among some other nice toys in his shop and has been making lots of nice billet aluminum parts for me
(some you will see with my new twin charged engine..)
Any way he is making me an aluminum Crank pulley but in stock diameter as i have the Supercharger on my car.. but I am wondering if some one on here from a shop like Turbo Tech or any others who have made these, could help me out on how i could get this balanced properly as i just got the new engine which is all balanced and i could only imagine the troubles or fun i would have if this thing is out of balance...
Even being made of aluminum and quite a bit lighter then stock as well as being spun at an insanely high speed i want it to be properly balanced..
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
To be 100% correct I would have it balanced on the crank. You can get it or balance it yourself, but I have found, at least with my crank pulleys. They are VERY close to completely balanced. When they are properly machined. If your friend has a 5 axis CNC and knows how to use it. I will promise you the pulley will be VERY well balanced just being machined. None of mine or any other billet aluminum crank pulleys are balanced, because they come of the machine so balanced. Also, I guess you never checked to see how OUT of balance our stock crank pulleys are.
I'm running my second GP on my LD9 crank pulleys right now if you interested at all.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
I second -MD- LD9's statement,
On another note ANY machine shop should be able to balance that pulley for you. The crank and pulley do not need to be balanced together.
-Chris
..... unless you want to build the motor like a race motor. spin the whole thing and X RPM and then ballance it.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
Chirs is right...to be 100% correct crank and pulley should be balanced together. This would be the BEST possible balance that you can get.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- LD9 wrote:To be 100% correct I would have it balanced on the crank. You can get it or balance it yourself, but I have found, at least with my crank pulleys. They are VERY close to completely balanced. When they are properly machined. If your friend has a 5 axis CNC and knows how to use it. I will promise you the pulley will be VERY well balanced just being machined. None of mine or any other billet aluminum crank pulleys are balanced, because they come of the machine so balanced. Also, I guess you never checked to see how OUT of balance our stock crank pulleys are.
I'm running my second GP on my LD9 crank pulleys right now if you interested at all.
are yours stock diameter?
also this by no means is a full out race engine... im shooting for 400whp which is a fair bit.. .but i know what you mean by the stock pulley is not ballenced the greatest... so im sure even if this aluminum one is out slightly its still going to be better then any stock one...
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
Mine are stock diameter, just lightweight. I have sold 34 Ld9 cranks before, about a year ago now. I'm looking for about 15 more cranks this Group Purchase.
I have also sold about 90 alternator pulleys. So if you ask around I'm sure people will tell you how they feel about my pulleys. If you are concerned.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- LD9 wrote:Mine are stock diameter, just lightweight. I have sold 34 Ld9 cranks before, about a year ago now. I'm looking for about 15 more cranks this Group Purchase.
I have also sold about 90 alternator pulleys. So if you ask around I'm sure people will tell you how they feel about my pulleys. If you are concerned.
oh its not that I am concerned if your products are good... you have always seemed like a level headed guy on this site who wouldn't BS around... I am just wondering if your just making them pretty well the same as my buddy (no real balancing procedure) just machining them and putting them on, i might get it from my buddy...But i might take a alternator pulley from you...
How much for just the pulley separate? and how much if i got them both?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
From the GP.
Quote:
Prices:
Alternator Price: $50
Crank Price: $125
Both the alternator and crank pulley $165
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Okay, but what about crank pulleys for the LN2 (2.2L/2200)?
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
Thy are going to be made last...the alt pulley works on the 2.2 though
Okay, PM me when they're ready.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
-MD- LD9 wrote:To be 100% correct I would have it balanced on the crank. You can get it or balance it yourself, but I have found, at least with my crank pulleys. They are VERY close to completely balanced. When they are properly machined. If your friend has a 5 axis CNC and knows how to use it. I will promise you the pulley will be VERY well balanced just being machined. None of mine or any other billet aluminum crank pulleys are balanced, because they come of the machine so balanced. Also, I guess you never checked to see how OUT of balance our stock crank pulleys are.
I'm running my second GP on my LD9 crank pulleys right now if you interested at all.
Agreed. The pulleys when machined properly should be balanced or very close to. But if you'd want to have it balanced I'd think you'd want to do that with the whole rotating assembly. Since our engines are internally balanced, it shouldn't matter a whole lot unless that pulley balance is off by a lot, or you're spinning to some insane speed like 10,000+ rpm.
