well, i was looking at doing some head work on my car on a spare head (so i dont put my car off the road for too long).
i was thinking of doing some basic stuff:
- port and polish
- secret cams (exhaust cam at least)
- new valves and springs
- cometic .030 head gasket (to bring the compression up a touch)
then i was going to do some basic maintenance stuff such as:
- new timing chain, tensioner, gears
- new head bolts (if needed)
- plane head true (if needed)
is there any thing anyone else can think of that i should look at doing, either maintenance wise or performance wise. i would prefer not to deck the head, hence why i want the thinner gasket. i dont want to bore the block or anything like that, just the valve train i want reworked.
keep in mind that the current block and head have 220 000km on it and run absolutely great, but im just debating on if i want a bit more power out of it and have something to toy with for the fun of it. i dont know too much about valve jobs and what they entail,so if someone could explain that too me too,that would be great.
thanks in advanced.
rob.
1997 Cavalier Z24 - 16.3 1320 - Times are falling...
I would swap to ARP studs over the stock head bolts. Besides they say the stock head bolts are not re-usable.
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote:Besides they say the stock head bolts are not re-usable.
ive re-used the stock head bolts on more than several occasions without issue.
but since you are going with performance in mind, yes... get the ARP's.
z yaaaa wrote:John Higgins wrote:Besides they say the stock head bolts are not re-usable.
ive re-used the stock head bolts on more than several occasions without issue.
but since you are going with performance in mind, yes... get the ARP's.
Well I have as well, just saying they say not to.
FU Tuning
yeah i have heard both. realistically, the work im planning i dont expect the ARP studs will be necessary and i think the stock ones will hold up to it.
if anyone has any more suggestions i might over look, please let me know.
1997 Cavalier Z24 - 16.3 1320 - Times are falling...
OE headbolts on these cars are "torque to yield". Essentially, the bolts are torqued to the point that they will not return to their original state once they have been used, therefore the clamping force they can generate will be reduced.
With that in mind, if repeated head removals are in the plans, then yes get the ARP studs for the re-usability aspect. If this is going to be a "one & done" job, the OE....new OE head bolts will be perfectly adequate at the power levels generated with this engine in NA trim. Now I don't what sort of price difference there is between OE & ARP, if they are close, then absolutely get the ARP's, but if there is a major difference, the money could be better spent on other things.
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Pricing between OE head bolts and ARP studs isn't going to be in the same sport, let alone in the same ball park.
What are your plans for lifters as well?
i remember you mentioning that to me in the past now shane. must have slipped my mind.
as for my plans for lifters, i havent decided. might just go OE on those. im looking for most of my gains to be had by the port and polish and the cams. for lifters, springs, and valves, i was thinking OE replacement. depending on what other work i do on the valve train, i may get lifters, retainers, and valves to match.
i dont have any experience with this type of thing, which is why i want to get my hands dirty and do something like this. best way to learn is hands on...
1997 Cavalier Z24 - 16.3 in 1320 and falling...
z yaaaa wrote:John Higgins wrote:Besides they say the stock head bolts are not re-usable.
ive re-used the stock head bolts on more than several occasions without issue.
.
that's just stupid on so many levels.
-Trailblazer SS - not so custom 6.0L - custom intake - custom tune
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SpyhunteR wrote:z yaaaa wrote:John Higgins wrote:Besides they say the stock head bolts are not re-usable.
ive re-used the stock head bolts on more than several occasions without issue.
.
that's just stupid on so many levels.
x2
I gotta say that I did it too. I did it with the current W41. I sure feel dumb for doing it. They are still holding. I measured them and they all mesured the same. They had 1000miles on them so I didn't want to buy another set.
I wouldn't do it again.
Mind you they are on the 12:1 engine.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
SpyhunteR wrote:that's just stupid on so many levels.
Mfk-223 wrote:I gotta say that I did it too. I did it with the current W41. I sure feel dumb for doing it. They are still holding. I measured them and they all mesured the same. They had 1000miles on them so I didn't want to buy another set.
I wouldn't do it again.
Mind you they are on the 12:1 engine.
stupid on an engine that makes over 400whp, yes. stupid on an engine that has high compression, yes.
on a bolt-on only mild n/a setup, not stupid. it works and works just fine.
regardless, with the mileage my motor has, they will be replaced with at least an OE replacement bolt.
1997 Cavalier Z24 - 16.3 in 1320 and falling...
In my personal opinion I would not reuse them. They are torqued to yield, and could / should stretch slightly and deform. Would reusing them hurt, probably not, but your just asking for trouble soon or later.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
I would atleast get some new OE bolts. The last thing you want is the head bolts snapping into the block... Ohh, as far as the head work goes you might try and ask about a three-angle valve grind and that will help the valves seat better for a little more top-end power... I have an LN2 motor so I'm not sure how sturdy the bottom end of a LD9 is but after I got all my headwork done it was no comparison to stock and it ended up over-revin and it spun one of my rod bearings... you've got 220K on that motor a set of Rod bearings wouldn't be a bad idea... atleast from my experiences...
