ok so i just finished my 5 spd swap and I'm having a few issues..... I put a new timing chain tensioner on it because before my auto trans blew it made a loud clacking noise near the timing chain assembly. it still does it now but even louder, so was i supposed to preload it? Also if i monitor the timing on my OBDII scanner that reads it in real time what should be around? Also i didnt swap my engine harness so how do i get my Vehicle speed sensor to work now?
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It would be a big help if you metioned what engine you are working with. I checked your profile and for others who are wondering it lists a 1997with the 2.4 engine.
Yes you need to preload it. I would tell you how but I have heard it is different between 95-99 2.4 tensioners and 00-02 tensioners. I do not know if this is true and I do not want to give you bad information.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, June 03, 2008 8:05 PM
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
sorry man.... i work at autozone and our alldata says something about using a wire to hold it in place... i dont really understand if anyone knows that would be great
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According to my haynes manual you push it down, hold it down with a small piece of wire bent n a U shape and inserted into the 2 holes. To release, remove the wire. I believe this is how its done on the pre 2000 models. When i had my '00 2.4 apart you pushed it down and it would stay down on its own. To release it you had to push the plunger as far down as it would go and it would release the spring thus giving it tension. If i was at my parents place i could snap some pics of the tensionner i have sitting there to show what i mean
sleepy sunfire wrote:According to my haynes manual you push it down, hold it down with a small piece of wire bent n a U shape and inserted into the 2 holes. To release, remove the wire. I believe this is how its done on the pre 2000 models. When i had my '00 2.4 apart you pushed it down and it would stay down on its own. To release it you had to push the plunger as far down as it would go and it would release the spring thus giving it tension. If i was at my parents place i could snap some pics of the tensionner i have sitting there to show what i mean
This was the understanding I have as well. I know the part he mentioned about the 00-02 tensioner is right since that is how I did mine.
FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!
thanks... does anyone know what my timing should be around if i monitor it with my scanner?
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Search the maintenance forum for "tensioner".
The differences between the years has been discussed in detail. I run a tensioner from a 96 2.4 in my cavs. Its spring loaded & doesn't rely on oil pressure to operate. I don't like the newer style tensioners at all...
I don't know what the timing looks like on a scanner.. But, If youre car is making a loud clacking noise, I wouldnt be running it anyway until you get that timing straightened out.
i have a 96 2.4. when you buy a new tensioner, it comes pressed down w/ a "U" shaped piece in the holes so all u have to do is bolt it on and then pull the "U" out of the holes and your good to go
Hamburger Helper..One Pound, One Pan, One Disfunctional Family!
sorry summer classes been busy......ok i think i might just order a 96 tensioner for my car then... it sounds easier and more reliable
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Me and my buddy used a zip tie on that style tentioner on his 2.3. After we got it installed we just cut the zip tie and was good to go.
I however use the oil pressure type tentioner.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
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so does the old style tensioner just bolt up?....
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Robert Williams wrote:so does the old style tensioner just bolt up?....
yes, and to answer ur vss ques, just wire the old autotrans vss wires to the new pigtail for the 5 speed one and u will be set
All the 00+ ones I've done you push (hard!!) on the cylinder to pop it in once.. then you install it... then you push it a second time, using a screwdriver or 1/4" handle and it pops back out, applying pressure on the tensioner shoe.
Had a hell of a time figuring it out on my own... but once you get the first one, they're all the same.
thanks guys... i just used a 96 tensioner and now i have absolutely 0 clacking.... although my starter has been acting up since i did the swap. when i go to start it i hear a almost electric sound or grinding kind of and the starter turns alittle slow. My old relay would just allow the starter to just keep turning, so then i put another one in it that i found at a junk yard and it still makes the same sound and today one time it would just make the starter keep turning. I'm almost wondering if that relay is bad too and not allowing enough power to go to the starter and thats why it sound like it does. Is this a good assumption?
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So I just rebuilt my motor, and I have the oil style of tensioner... I pressed it down and slid it in, and when I released it, it only came out half way, so it doesn't really put any pressure on the shoe yet and I can't get it out any further... should I get it replaced, or will the oil push it out the rest of the way? Thanks for the help
Take the tensioner back out and compress it harder and it should pop out all the way when you let go. It just means you only semi-loaded the spring when it needs to be fully loaded.
It that doesn't work, then i've go not clue. Quite possibly could just be a faulty tensioner
Robert Williams wrote:sorry summer classes been busy......ok i think i might just order a 96 tensioner for my car then... it sounds easier and more reliable
LOL
thats why GM stopped using them and went to the more expensive 2 piece one, right?
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
13.7 @102.45 MPH Third Place, 2007 GMSC Bash SOLD AS OF 01MAR08
