building a turbo 2200 ohv and am doing the timing chain and gears, anyone had problems with their timing components under say 12-15 lbs of boost and when do you need to retard timing? i called cloyes and they were going to sponsor the tensioner and the chain and gears but said their parts would more likely fail under boost than clevites, true? should i stick with the clevite stuff, i am not going to do the pre 95 swap.
thanks
jason
Do the 1982 1.8L roller chain conversion as seen here. See page 2-4 Timing chain tensioner boss and pages 2-14 and 2-15 CAMSHAFT DRIVE. What is not mentioned is that you'll need to bore the center of the cam gear to fit the snout of the hydraulic roller camshaft. This would be the most durable set up available. The timing chain kit is available at Advance Auto Parts for approximately $110.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, June 26, 2008 2:38 AM
I have never heard of the timing components FAIL just because is boosted......they will most likely wear faster.
As far as retarding timing....it all depends on your tune, and your car. you want to retard to aviod knock basically. there is no preset retard "phase"
I would definitely follow MadJack's advice on that '82 double-roller conversion. I've seen the factory "quiet" chain start to slip & fail at around 100,000mi on all-stock S-trucks (Even sooner with the "Cheapo" chains not made by GM or Cloyes or Dynagear or, you get the idea). I imagine it would only accelerate the wear & failure of the less-than-desirable Timkin-link "quiet" chain if one were to build-up the torque the engine is able to produce at the crank, so go double-roller on it. Or any LN2 for that matter, just to be safe. I have a feeling that the timing chain is the only part holding the LN2 back from being a 300,000mi engine like a EFI Small-block Chevy V-8 is.
Go beyond the "bolt-on".
is the parts list on page 2-14 or 15 the complete list for the swap?
