I have a 2.2L and i was looking to get around 180Hp, So the plan was to get new rods, new pistons, lighter crank pulley, lighter flywheel. and a new clutch. Also once i hit that 180Hp mark i want to add around a 50 shot of nitrous. Any suggestions to what else i should do to attain my goal. And i dont wanna do a swap at the moment because i would rather buy a new car and start from scratch again, but im learning right now so i think ill stick to what i have right now.


It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

your talking about the 2200 or ohv or eco? im assuming 2200 maybe? if so I dont think you will reach that much hp with that unless you add a port n poilsh to the head, a cam swap, and valves, springs etc, especially if your going to spray. jmo

that should get you around that mark. I agree with the p&p head......thats about it though, unless your budget allows.

Get some 1:6 roller rockers instead of a cam and entire valve train.....unless as said, your budget allows.

Good luck on getting a N/A LN2 to 180hp. You'll be better off with a turbo or swapping it out.

On juice, I think it is possible.

ya its the 95 2.2L and there is no budget really, its whatever i save up to get, and yes im doing a port and polish and valve train, so im looking at upward of $3000. which wont bother me that much cause im buying a second head to do all the work on, so that i still have a car to drive, probly a whole new engine but im gonna start at the top and work down. Thanks for all the help guys, and i was thinking 170 to 180 Hp then hit it with a 50 shot of N20 so like looking around 210-220 Hp.

Any more ideas would be a lot of help, or even where to get good parts online. And I live by Winnipeg Manitoba(if you know where that is) I wanna know where i could get some machine work done.


It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

dry or wey spray

and its gonna be easyer to work form the bottom up
good luck

turbocharge it. cheaper and you should be able to get 200hp without spraying it.

Well i dont want a turbo cause this is a daily driver, so im just gonna keep it N/A other than the spray , and jimmy roberts i will be using dry.


It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

TheBeast wrote:Well i dont want a turbo cause this is a daily driver, so im just gonna keep it N/A other than the spray , and jimmy roberts i will be using dry.

high effort n/a engines aren't a good idea for daily driver use. Not only that, but I highly doubt you'll ever come close to your goal naturally aspirated with the OHV.
putting a turbo on it will actually stress the engine less. You don't need high rpm, high compression, or bumpy cams to make power with a turbo.

Also, the turbo only makes power when its spooled. So if you cruise normally, its just like if you had a stock engine. But drop the hammer, spool the turbo and you have the power you want.

it takes money to do stuff right though. Don't think because its n/a it'll be cheaper to get power.. its actually the complete opposite.
for the power you want look into setting up a proper turbo system and be done with it.

and I won't touch the dry nitrous comment with a 10 foot pole... I think you need to do some serious reading into how to do this kind of stuff.

'95, eh? That means batch-fire injection, as opposed to sequential-injection that's found on '96-later engines. Not to mention side-feed injectors, which you will be looking at replacing with a top-feed conversion since side-feeds only came in one size of flow-rate. And as you build power you'll reach the point where the stock injectors won't flow enough.

The biigest problem you'll have is with the management (i.e.: The computer) since '95 got the goofball OBD-1.5 system. It a OBD-I ECM with a OBD-II style connector, and it can't be flash-tuned like an OBD-II can. It will require an intergrater box, which is costly & seldom seen these days, since chip burning was expensive & time consuming even before OBD-II systems were introduced. Which means it was left to the pros, and there aren't many pro tuners out there that deal with OBD-I anymore. It also means long periods of down-time for your car as you send-off the chip to the programer & wait for it's return with a tune programed in that might not be perfect for your car since it couldn't be there for them to interact with, which would give them immediate feedback as to how it'd react so they could get it perfect.

I'm not tryin' to be a hoser & discourage you, just give you a heads-up as to what you're gettin' into, eh? I wish you luck on this & hope it turns out well.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

180 whp is definitely possible. 180 hp @ the flywheel is possible to, but will require a bit of work to make it a street-able motor (i.e. smooth idle).

Starting with the PCM, you can get a '97 or '98 PCM (programmable w/HPT) with the wiring harness, but this will require a '96 or '97 block (cam position sensor for SFI).

The injectors will be fin with the N/A application. With the nitrous you can run a wet kit or do a top feed injector conversion (can be found by searching in the boost forums).

As for the air flow, a short ram or long ram intake will be needed. The TB is cast intrigal with the upper plenum. Get a 2.3 TB (56mm as opposed to 52mm stock)remove the butterfly and have the throat of the 2.2L TB bored to match the 2.3 TB's and install the 2.3's butterfly. Make a 3/4" to 1" plenum spacer to increase the plenum volume for the rpms needed. (will be needed if you do the top feed conversion anyways!) Blend the turn-ins on each of the runners for a smoother transition and port match the diameter to the intake gasket used (a few thousandths under sized would be best.)

A full P&P will be needed on the head. Look into getting a set of custom +2mm (1.811") intake vales made. (1.84" intake vales are possible too.) You should be fine with the +1mm exhaust valves that are available. (Be sure to check for valve-to-piston clearance, so you don't grenade the motor.) Aftermarket studs and rocker arms will be needed. Rocker ratio will be determined by the cam profile and the max lift your valve spring can take. If you machine the valve spring pockets 0.090", you can use any of the LSX/ L76/L99 valve springs (GMPP or CompCams) with the stock locks and retainers. Surfacing of the head will need to be done to help establish the needed compression ratio.

You'll need pistons to build help build the compression. Something in the 10-10.5:1 range should be good (after surfacing the head and block), but you'll most likely need to run premium gas. The Eagle forged rods will be great for durability. While no necessary Total Seal Piston (or C&A's ZGS)rings will help, they seal the cylinder a little better than standard gap rings for creating top end power and creating higher vacuum at idle. The Melling M98 ('93 & older OHVs) oil pump will be needed, it provides approximately a 10 % increase in volume and higher pressure. Do the '82 1.8L OHV true roller timing chain conversion.

As for the cam, you'll need to do a regrind by your favorite cam company (Crane Cams, CompCams, Isky Racing Cams, etc....) you'll want something in the range of 212-224 degrees @ 0.050" intake duration and about 5-10 degrees more exhaust duration. Lobe separation should be about 112-113 degrees (either/or both the intake and/or exhaust center-lines moved one degree, max you can do w/ a regrind.) Look for total lift (including the rocker arm ratio) of about 0.495" to 0.525".

Since you have a manual transmission, look into a Stage 2 or 3 clutch. Also get the final drive (differential) from a Z24 (3.94:1 instead of a 3.58:1 ratio) to better match your power band. Your torque peek should fall in the 4000-4500 rpm range and the horsepower peek in the neighborhood of 6000-6500 rpm. Expect to raise the rpm limiter to about 400-600 rpm above the hp peek (6600-7100 rpm).

This is just a quickie(?!) review of what should be done to reliably build an OHV for that power range. The more work you can do yourself the less expensive it will be. N/A isn't necessarily the easiest way to get that kind of HP, but if you do you research to get the in depth details of all the above, you can build it. The power a motor make is a sum of all the components and work put into it. Take a shortcut somewhere and the power will take a dive and/or the motor will self destruct (this is true of any build).

Just thought I'd add: The S-truck intake for '94-'97 seems to have longer runners than the J-car version does. So that can be handy, if it's what you're lookin' for.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

MadJack wrote:180 whp is definitely possible. 180 hp @ the flywheel is possible to, but will require a bit of work to make it a street-able motor (i.e. smooth idle).

Starting with the PCM, you can get a '97 or '98 PCM (programmable w/HPT) with the wiring harness, but this will require a '96 or '97 block (cam position sensor for SFI).

The injectors will be fin with the N/A application. With the nitrous you can run a wet kit or do a top feed injector conversion (can be found by searching in the boost forums).

As for the air flow, a short ram or long ram intake will be needed. The TB is cast intrigal with the upper plenum. Get a 2.3 TB (56mm as opposed to 52mm stock)remove the butterfly and have the throat of the 2.2L TB bored to match the 2.3 TB's and install the 2.3's butterfly. Make a 3/4" to 1" plenum spacer to increase the plenum volume for the rpms needed. (will be needed if you do the top feed conversion anyways!) Blend the turn-ins on each of the runners for a smoother transition and port match the diameter to the intake gasket used (a few thousandths under sized would be best.)

A full P&P will be needed on the head. Look into getting a set of custom +2mm (1.811") intake vales made. (1.84" intake vales are possible too.) You should be fine with the +1mm exhaust valves that are available. (Be sure to check for valve-to-piston clearance, so you don't grenade the motor.) Aftermarket studs and rocker arms will be needed. Rocker ratio will be determined by the cam profile and the max lift your valve spring can take. If you machine the valve spring pockets 0.090", you can use any of the LSX/ L76/L99 valve springs (GMPP or CompCams) with the stock locks and retainers. Surfacing of the head will need to be done to help establish the needed compression ratio.

You'll need pistons to build help build the compression. Something in the 10-10.5:1 range should be good (after surfacing the head and block), but you'll most likely need to run premium gas. The Eagle forged rods will be great for durability. While no necessary Total Seal Piston (or C&A's ZGS)rings will help, they seal the cylinder a little better than standard gap rings for creating top end power and creating higher vacuum at idle. The Melling M98 ('93 & older OHVs) oil pump will be needed, it provides approximately a 10 % increase in volume and higher pressure. Do the '82 1.8L OHV true roller timing chain conversion.

As for the cam, you'll need to do a regrind by your favorite cam company (Crane Cams, CompCams, Isky Racing Cams, etc....) you'll want something in the range of 212-224 degrees @ 0.050" intake duration and about 5-10 degrees more exhaust duration. Lobe separation should be about 112-113 degrees (either/or both the intake and/or exhaust center-lines moved one degree, max you can do w/ a regrind.) Look for total lift (including the rocker arm ratio) of about 0.495" to 0.525".

Since you have a manual transmission, look into a Stage 2 or 3 clutch. Also get the final drive (differential) from a Z24 (3.94:1 instead of a 3.58:1 ratio) to better match your power band. Your torque peek should fall in the 4000-4500 rpm range and the horsepower peek in the neighborhood of 6000-6500 rpm. Expect to raise the rpm limiter to about 400-600 rpm above the hp peek (6600-7100 rpm).

This is just a quickie(?!) review of what should be done to reliably build an OHV for that power range. The more work you can do yourself the less expensive it will be. N/A isn't necessarily the easiest way to get that kind of HP, but if you do you research to get the in depth details of all the above, you can build it. The power a motor make is a sum of all the components and work put into it. Take a shortcut somewhere and the power will take a dive and/or the motor will self destruct (this is true of any build).

you forgot the first step.

since the OP states this as his only car, he needs to buy another car so this work can be done.

and just out of curiosity, has anyone hit that much power N/A on an OHV before?

Nickelin Dimer wrote:Just thought I'd add: The S-truck intake for '94-'97 seems to have longer runners than the J-car version does. So that can be handy, if it's what you're lookin' for.

A longer runner would help the low end torque, not develop the upper rpm horsepower. That and the runners are angled differently and won't allow for the mounting of the power steering pump on FWD applications.

DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:you forgot the first step.

since the OP states this as his only car, he needs to buy another car so this work can be done.

and just out of curiosity, has anyone hit that much power N/A on an OHV before?

Trying to play catch-up, I confused him with someone who said their car was going to be down for a while. If he's got a shop to work in, he can pick-up a spare motor, pcm and wiring harness till he completes everything. (BTW, I'll be the fist to admit that this isn't a build for the feint of heart!)

Currently, Bob Guptill has more than likely reach these levels and more, with some of his odd ball combinations. At least he's got the b@!!$ to do such a builds! Byron Clemons did so on his build (more than listed on that link), before HP Tuners.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, October 24, 2008 5:03 AM

i read it as the op was going to start building a motor and keep driving his car until he was ready to put it in. i would buy a stock 97 motor and go from there. i will give him a parts list if he is ready to run vp red hahahahahahahahaha

Yes im just going to buy a motor and build it up in my garage, and im gonna try and do all most of the of the fun stuff my self but if it gets too hard or i dont have the right tools im going to let a professional do it and take it to a shop. Wow madjack thats 2 threads in a row you have gave me inspiration and lots of info to do this build. And to everyone else thanks as well.

Bob- Why should i use the 97 motor, is it cause of the obd 2?


It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

why not do a 2.4 swap and some simpler mods? its going to be alot easier to get that 180whp number from that engine, and most likely cheaper.



just a thought.,..................


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mike wrote:The auto to manual swap is not as involved as you would think.
Get all the parts you need in a pile, and drive the car into it.
They will find their way into the correct places.

MadJack wrote:

Nickelin Dimer wrote:Just thought I'd add: The S-truck intake for '94-'97 seems to have longer runners than the J-car version does. So that can be handy, if it's what you're lookin' for.

A longer runner would help the low end torque, not develop the upper rpm horsepower. That and the runners are angled differently and won't allow for the mounting of the power steering pump on FWD applications.

I kinda figured that, since the last time I saw the way the accessories were laid-out in the J-car they were completely backwards of how they're arranged in the S-truck. Oh, and I can't help notice that the header on the car in the link runs alot like the way an S-truck header for the same engine does.

And I'd imagine (although it isn't by much of a stretch of one) that since OBD-II can be flash-tuned, that'd be a good part of the reason why Bob recommended going with one. Plus, it's the last year of the side-feed injection system, since everthing from the head mating surface up got changed for '98, so it'll be familiar to you if you worked with it before.


Go beyond the "bolt-on".

ya i recommended the 97 because ot os the obd2 version of what you have. therefore i can still help ya with the pistons and fab work like i have been

You can actually use the '98+ PCMs also, as long as you use a '98+ crank (timing notch in the crank). On the '98 you have to adjust for the location of the ignition module. On the '99+ make the needed adjustments for the ignition module and remove the EGR valve and block off the ports (you won't have to shut it off for racing). A plug might have to be swapped here or there, but overall they use basically the same stuff.

K well this Monday im going to the salvage yard to find a low kilometer engine, and start tearing it apart to see whats good in it. Thanks for all the help again everyone, i will most likely be asking alot more questions.


It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road

Pozr wrote:why not do a 2.4 swap and some simpler mods? its going to be alot easier to get that 180whp number from that engine, and most likely cheaper.



just a thought.,..................

JerseyJayLN2 (Scarab) wrote:Wait... So... You're telling me all you have to do to make your engine more powerful,
is to order and install a bunch of parts made SPECIFICALLY FOR IT? Off of a website?
No measuring? No fabrication? No experimentation?
Well, where's the fun in that?

MadJack wrote:Every one allways asks "Why a Cavalier (and a 4 door at that)?", "Why the 2.2?" and "Why the 3 speed?" We'll, because thats what I've got and I can't leave well enough alone! I love to tinker with cars, especially if it's the "Under-Dog!" Anybody can get the "me to" car, that has all the parts you could ever want and make it faster. Me, Ill take the car no one expects, then supprise you with it! Yeah, it takes more work, you have to do some research to find anything to fit, or just make it yourself, but I like doing all that!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, October 26, 2008 10:48 AM

if you need any oddbal parts or brackets or anything let me know i should be tearing apart a couple more in the next few weeks, gonna build a full tube chassis cavalier next

I will let you know by tomorrow, after i go check out the donor car.


It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road