Well after doing a good deal of reading and watching some videos, i think i understand how a regrind works. The base circle is ground down so that the "lump" is bigger vs the closed position.
Now, my question is, does anyone have experience with eco cam regrinds? how much meat do we have to take off the base circle, and how much can we take off before affecting valvetrain geometry? Cam regrind prices seem to range from 100-150/cam. Seems to me if you're going to run a mild grind (like comp stage 1 or LZM triflows) you would be better off financially with a regrind.
Thoughs, opinions or experiences?
Thanks!
www.colt-cams.com
ask for geoff.
We all need somebody to believe in something...
z yaaaa wrote:www.colt-cams.com
ask for geoff.
Have you had this kind of work done? If so could you PM me the price? I sent colt an email yesterday
no, not me personally... however, ive looked into it. i know they are cheaper than what LZM and JBP always marked them up for...
All I want... is a little of the good life
I dont really unterstand how you can remove metal from a cam shaft and get a better cam. I figured that any time you remove metal you will be losing lift/duration; never a plus for performance.
it moves the base circle.
its hard to explain but it works.
All I want... is a little of the good life
Michael Richardson wrote:I dont really unterstand how you can remove metal from a cam shaft and get a better cam. I figured that any time you remove metal you will be losing lift/duration; never a plus for performance.
You take more material away from the base circle and less from the lobe profile. When you grind down the base circle, your hydraulic lifters pump up and take up the otherwise resulting gap. That's how you change the profile without using blanks.
I have no signiture
Yes like everyone said - you take material off the bottom of the lobe and it makes more of the lobe "lift". It helps if you can find an illustration - that's what helped me and it makes sense now. I just wonder how far you can go before affecting geometry.
Just got a price on these - it's not worth it compared to a fresh set from comp
And I'd rather not be a gunea pig for a local company doing it for the first time on our cams.
how much was it?
for what i'm gonna do with my eco(road racing) i'm not sure if i shoudl og with a turbo grind, or tri-flow...maybe i'll talk to comp about a tri-flow like turbo grind.....idk....
idk if you were talking about colt but they have been grinding eco cams for years...
pj's tri-flows came from them and we all know what that car did...
All I want... is a little of the good life
actually i don't know anything about pj's tri-flow cammed car....what did they do for him? good or bad?
well it ran a 14.001 with like 140whp, so yeah.. i'd say they helped.
All I want... is a little of the good life
wow...i like the sound of that!
They wanted 425 for the tri-flows.
Just to keep things real, PJ was also running a patriot ported head and full bolt-ons with an aggressive tune. His car was a light base model, he ran drag radials, the temps were cool and he was an excellent driver. I'm not dismissing these cams, just saying they were more of a limiting factor for him from back in those days - PM him, I'm sure he will tell you the same.
well, i like the powerband they support and the straighter torque curve they allow. i just am not sure if it will be too small of a grind.
Dave De Stefano wrote:well, i like the powerband they support and the straighter torque curve they allow. .
No Doubt. They are a great "street" cam for that reason. I was just saying that making the implication that you can run 14.0 because PJ did with these cams is not accurate because there was so much more to his build, conditions, tune and ability than just the cams.
