Its been awhile since I've posted here. Anyways I have a rod knocking in my Z-24. How do I go about getting the oilpan off. Does anyone have a how-to for this? When I remove the lower motor mount, where do I support the engine?
I have done several motor and tranny swaps and turbo installs. What I'm asking is for some advice on what needs to be removed and what doesn't. The only bolt left minus the motor mount bolt left is the one under the pan to tranny stud. Having trouble getting that one out. I don't want to pull the motor to remove the oilpan. I know on some cars you have to pull the motor to remove the pan.
you dont have to pull your motor to remove the pan. just remove lower motor mount and all pan bolts. if you cant figure it out buy a hanes manual from the parts store. has a step by step and cost under 20 dollars.
thanks ill pick up the manual tomorrow
i dont think he is talkin about the same car as in the reg. because reg is 2.2 eco and hes seems to be asking about a z so im guessing a 2.4
If you have a rod knocking then you should just pull the engine. There are really good odds, if you can hear it then the damage has already been done, to the crank journal and connecting rod. The knocking oblongs the connecting rod end and beats the hell out of the crank resulting in the need for a new crank and rod.
Then again I would have to agree with Shifted, If you need to ask, dont mess with it. Its not that instructions wouldnt help, its just after you get the pan off, you really gotta know what your doing, All of the parts are matched sets, the nuts shouldnt be flipped or moved, rod caps cannot be mixed, main caps cannot be mixed, and all parts marked accordingly and assembled by the book. period.
If you mix the parts, and have to have a machine shop work on it, Its going to cost double to fix the original problem and to undo the mixed up parts.
01 cav w/01 3400 gam gt 4t45e
I was refering to a 2.4 (wifes car). I don't have the 2.2 Eco anymore. I traded it for a WRX.
Anyways I was just asking for some advice on, if the engine had to be removed or other tips from people who have removed them before. Every car is different so maybe someone had a tip that would be helpful before I got under there. I can tell this isn't the same jbody.org that it was 4 years ago.
dvader wrote:I can tell this isn't the same jbody.org that it was 4 years ago.
I disagree... if you'd posted this same question 4 years ago, we probably would have said the same thing. In fact, you could have searched instead of posting about it...
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=11&i=65731&t=65731&arch=1#65731
So it looks like the place hasn't changed much
I'm with Joe on this one... if you've got rod knock, just pulling the pan in the car isn't going to help. You're going to end up pulling that motor like it or not.
...j
Lenko, I have to say the cavy looks good. I did search. Just didn't find what I was looking for.
I remember long time ago we tried to replace the rod bearings of a 1980something buick park avenue, from the oil pan because it was knocking.
it did not work! we drove it after replacing it and it was still knocking and later it had a hole on the engine block
junk yard it went. We kind of knew it was not going to work, but it was worth the shot!
I wish it was that simple.
drain oil/ remove Oil pan/replace bearings/install pan/add oil/done.... not really
