I got my 2000 cav with the LN2 about 3 months ago with 83,000 miles on her.  I assume it's the original clutch, but i have no way to be positive.  I learned to drive a stick, as my other cavy is auto, in this car. (needless to say, i imagine that added significant wear and tear)  I never hold the clutch in at lights or coasting, and never hold it in the middle on hills.  But, i noticed lately that it was been a smoother shifting vehicle, not as.....noticeable?....as it had been.  IT doesn't rev up and drop back when i start from a stop or in any gear, and if i come off the clutch slightly quicker on hills it grabs and doesn't rev up more than 200rpm's..... It slips in the 5th test.....From a dead stop put it in 5 floor it and let off the clutch it goes forward about 2 feet before dieing.  Its not terrible but it I am aware of the slippage.
Now, after that long boring story: How hard wouldn't it be to replace the clutch on my own?  I have a garage to use, no lifts, but plenty of jacks.  Are there any special tools?  I seen kits that have the alignment tool, and i will get one of those.  What will i most likely need?  Clutch, Slave cyl., Pressure plate, Throwout bearings, Flywheel?
Im starting school next week, so money is tight.  If this just isn't something i could do on my own (with help)   I will suffer the 1000 to have a garage do it.  Any links to parts would be great!  
 
 
Basic metric wrench's are about it.  Takes 3-5 hours.
Get a SPEC clutch kit, it INCLUDES the pressure plate, disc, TOB/Slave cylinder, and the alignment tool 
 
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com

Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
 
Where can i get a spal kit?  I only found them for the Eco?
