Hey guys, Im trying to figure out the best way to go in tuning my car. Im having a guy tune for me, but he is a big Honda guy so its a world of diffrent... 
So far we have just changed the injector constant so im not running lean, it seemed to make the car run better, but now im running to rich, and its just not running right.  We have been to the HPT website looking at tunes for similar setups but still kinda lost... 
Im running a t3 turbo at 8 psi on my 2.2 ecotec. the wideband reads around 11.7 WOT, but when im sitting at idle low 10s, its backfiring like crazy because its running so rich..  I went to the track weds night and my 60 ft is horrible around 2.5 because the car takes off, and then bogs down real bad but then picks up great in full boost through the rest of the gears..please help me to get this straitend out... If anyone has had experience with tuning these motors, help is very much appreciated.. thanks 
SuNnY-T
 
forgot spell check... oops
SuNnY-T
 
why would you change your injector constant rather than your VE values if you didnt change injectors..

12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP  333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
 
i did change injectors 440s... just dont understand how to do the  VE tables... 
SuNnY-T
 
I would adjust your injector constant in small increments back toward stock until you get a decent idle.  Then work the VE tables as decribed in shifted's FAQ in this section.  
There are two big issues with tuning a turbo'ed eco - no boost referenced spark retard, and no boost referenced enrichment.  
Running only 8 psi out of a relatively small turbo, this is not as much of an issue.  You can adjust your highest MAP column on the spark tables for the max boost and deal with lower part throttle timing.  As far as fuel, I've read it's nice to install an FMU to get a boost referenced enrichment, and tune the VE tables from there.
 
 
oldskool wrote:I would adjust your injector constant in small increments back toward stock until you get a decent idle.  Then work the VE tables as decribed in shifted's FAQ in this section.  
There are two big issues with tuning a turbo'ed eco - no boost referenced spark retard, and no boost referenced enrichment.  
Running only 8 psi out of a relatively small turbo, this is not as much of an issue.  You can adjust your highest MAP column on the spark tables for the max boost and deal with lower part throttle timing.  As far as fuel, I've read it's nice to install an FMU to get a boost referenced enrichment, and tune the VE tables from there.
So if you're running a bigger turbo and more PSI what do you do to resolve those two issued you noted.
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2002 Cavalier LS Sport Sedan (RIP)
2005 Chevy Equinox LT AWD
2011 Chevy Equinox LT1 AWD
Fatalthoughtz (Xbox Live & PSN Tag)
 
 
Thats and option, but i dont know much about standalone. the guy whos working on the car with me is trying to trick the 2 bar so it reads boost.. iono im just so confused and annoyed of this car... lol
SuNnY-T
 
forget faking a 2 bar.  we do not have enough access to properly configure the fake.  in addition, you loose 2x resolution so either low end or in boost drivabilty suffers.
 
 
oldskool wrote:forget faking a 2 bar.  we do not have enough access to properly configure the fake.  in addition, you loose 2x resolution so either low end or in boost drivabilty suffers.
why forget the fake 2 bar. im running a fake 2.5 bar just fine with 14psi + spray, which brings it up near 18psi
if you changed your injectors, you do need to change your constant. use the injector constant formula found in this forum, i dont recall it off hand.  VE tables are the easiest thing to tune. all you need to do is set up histograms in vcm scanner if you have HP Tuners for % AFR error and copy and paste -> add, smooth once or twice. do that until you get it running smooth with whatever AFRs you are shooting for.
the fake 2 bar is easy, your 50 kpa column will be used for 100kpa in pressure, 60 = 120, etc. there is a good FAQ on faking a 2.5 bar, read that and use 2 instead of 2.5 in your calculations

12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP  333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
 
 
That,s exactly what he started on today lol.  the guy im tuning it with is using the two bar... awesome! i was kinda sceptical to see if it would work properly, but exactly what you said is what he is doing... thanks for the help man, I really appreciate it! 
 
SuNnY-T
 
evilmonkitar wrote:oldskool wrote:forget faking a 2 bar.  we do not have enough access to properly configure the fake.  in addition, you loose 2x resolution so either low end or in boost drivabilty suffers.
why forget the fake 2 bar. im running a fake 2.5 bar just fine with 14psi + spray, which brings it up near 18psi
if you changed your injectors, you do need to change your constant. use the injector constant formula found in this forum, i dont recall it off hand.  VE tables are the easiest thing to tune. all you need to do is set up histograms in vcm scanner if you have HP Tuners for % AFR error and copy and paste -> add, smooth once or twice. do that until you get it running smooth with whatever AFRs you are shooting for.
the fake 2 bar is easy, your 50 kpa column will be used for 100kpa in pressure, 60 = 120, etc. there is a good FAQ on faking a 2.5 bar, read that and use 2 instead of 2.5 in your calculations
  Faking a 2 or 2.5 bar with a supercharger is easier than with a turbo because you have RPM dependant boost.  It should be the same in every gear, which is not necessarily true of a turbo.  That said, the OP is running 8 pounds on a small-ish T3 (more specs would help), so the response should be quick...
