Just wondering if there is any true way to say mold body parts without them cracking? I see people like doublezed do all that work to his and hate to see it all cracked up.
http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
i know a friend of mine has a zx2 escort with the evo kit all molded and he used body glue and its held up for 2 years now
Use the proper body adhesives
Dont drive like a @!#$ing moron
That about covers it.
My kit is just about being done molded. Like everyone's saying, use the proper panel adhesives. Use GOOD (not bondo) fiberglass or body putty. Use a GOOD glazing on top.
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they way i did mine was
body glue the 2 peices together.
bolt them up like stock with glue batween them
long stran fiberglass body filler to even the crack out.
add some finishing putty and its all good and done
it will last longer then your bumper.
i could push on my bumpers and it would move the car and no cracks.
i would say if u did end up hitting your bumper the bumper would crack before the molding cracks. thats how strong mine was
2000 cavalier z24 (show) -------------------- www.cardomain.com/id/krazycav
1997 cavalier z24 (track) --------------------- www.cardomain.com/id/krazycav
1996 cavalier 2.2 (beater) -------------------- www.cardomain.com/id/krazycav
ok, what about urethane?? i've been told to use either fusor 147, or 3M body panel adhesive(Flip, you told me this one). but the question i have is, after that, do you then fiberglass, or can you use those body panel adhesives to build up and then sand down to make things even??
sorry to thread jack
Fred Ohlson "The people that devised this cruel attempt
at acceptance and fame burn in there honda civics"
Well depending on how many bodylines you want to get rid of, yes you would use fiberglass over the molded pieces. Or if you just molding something small, you'd use just bodyfiller over it.
Say for instance my rear bumper in my sig. Fusor was used, then the whole area was grinded and then glassed over that, then filler. I would drill holes in the urethane so the fiberglass resin seeps thru and creates a more permanent bond.
When I molded my stuff, I test fit everything, screwing it to the car. Grinded both pieces, applied Fusor and then put it on the car and rescrewed the part to the car. After the Fusor cures for 24 hours the screws can be taken out and fiberglass or bodyfiller is then used.
Z2FLIP4 wrote:
When I molded my stuff, I test fit everything, screwing it to the car. Grinded both pieces, applied Fusor and then put it on the car and rescrewed the part to the car. After the Fusor cures for 24 hours the screws can be taken out and fiberglass or bodyfiller is then used.
this is exacly how i did mine. its turned out amazing
check my car domain page for pics of the progress on my cavfire
2000 cavalier z24 (show) -------------------- www.cardomain.com/id/krazycav
1997 cavalier z24 (track) --------------------- www.cardomain.com/id/krazycav
1996 cavalier 2.2 (beater) -------------------- www.cardomain.com/id/krazycav
Z2FLIP4
Your rear bumper is urethane right ?
And you mix fiberglass and urethane ?
Location: Montreal, Quebec
^^^i was curious too, cuz i always heard not to mix fiberglass with urethane, but i guess if you drill holes in the urethane, to let it seap thru, it will hold. Im gonna take Flip's word on it, cuz he definately knows his $hit!
Fred Ohlson "The people that devised this cruel attempt
at acceptance and fame burn in there honda civics"
after you bond it to the car w/ fusor or whatever you choose, then yes fiberglass over it. fiberglass wont stick well to urethane thats why you drill holes. the same way when you glass a dash your drill holes all in the dash. this way the glass will get in the dash and cure causing a strong bond
chris fontana
tryin to bond plastic to metal is like tryin to get oil to stick with water it will not work and it will not stick
fiberglass is not meant to be use a bonding agent, please chris do not use f/b as this
drillin holes will do absolutly nothin all it will do is come back and you will see the holes where you drilled
bonding f/b to metal will work
can i haz bondo
big daddy wrote:chris fontana
tryin to bond plastic to metal is like tryin to get oil to stick with water it will not work and it will not stick
fiberglass is not meant to be use a bonding agent, please chris do not use f/b as this
drillin holes will do absolutly nothin all it will do is come back and you will see the holes where you drilled
bonding f/b to metal will work
so it sisnt a good idea to try and mould urethane? if thats the case, im gonna sell my urethane kit and get something in fiberglass, cuz i wanna do moulded kit pretty bad. although i love my streetfire skirts. it would be tough to get rid of them.
Fred Ohlson "The people that devised this cruel attempt
at acceptance and fame burn in there honda civics"
i am sayin is molding plastic to metal will not work no matter what products you use it will not work bottom line
now everyone says on here that the plastic body kits are urathene.....well does it have a code on the inside of the bumper sayin it`s polyurathene??? to deterimne what kind of plastic you are dealin with cut off a small piece of plastic from inside the bumper or some where you can cut a real small sliver to do this test
get a cup of water and try to sink the piece in the water if it does sink you have a non-offlien plastic can can use any method in repairing or moldin plastic to plastic
if it floats you have a offlien plastci and need to use a adeshion promotor on the plastic before you repair/mold a bumper
my experince with the sem products and fusor i am not impressed at all and are a @!#$ty product to work with
duramix was bought out by 3m so all i use is 3m plastic repair material and 3m adhesives
to answer your question molding plastic to metal no it will not work
can i haz bondo
