Well ive read the older threads about the cams. And most of them are just ecotec related about the CEL problems and so on for the ecotecs. Anyways can anyone who has these cams on there 2.4L tell me any problems they had, and just some feedback about these.
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People I have talked to say their JBP cams throw no codes.
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Yeah,
I think anything over .400 on the lift will cause the computer to toss out some codes.
Right now i"m running LO .375/.375 cams, no problems.
You should be alright with jbp.
I plan on getting them next yr.
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
I think one of them originally screwed up on lobe separation and the idle was way off so people were getting misfire codes... if my memory serves me right, but don't quote me on it.
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In some of the post, people where saying the 2.4's slowed down after installing these cams.
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i just stuck with the seceret cams , i suggest them to anyone.
good luck with what ever route you go.
It is very possible to accualy become slower after a cam swap. If you do not tune the cams properly that is exactally what happens.
2002 Z28: Slp coldair Pac, Corsa Catback, 3200 stall
Mastin wrote:Yeah,
I think anything over .400 on the lift will cause the computer to toss out some codes.
My cams are over .400 lift and the PCM has no problems with them.
- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.
I have the LZMs (identical to the JBP stuff, they're ground by Colt Cams)
They work great... I ran a 14.996 with 'em.
Hit me up via email since my set are for sale since I'm switchin to an Ecotec.
Quote:
My cams are over .400 lift and the PCM has no problems with them.
Don't say that, because I'm missing out on some HO cams in the classifieds.
All good though,
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
Skilz10179 wrote:Mastin wrote:Yeah,
I think anything over .400 on the lift will cause the computer to toss out some codes.
My cams are over .400 lift and the PCM has no problems with them.
you have custom grind cams don't you? i still think the code being thrown on some of the earlier release cams was due to a lobe separation issue
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fats02z28 wrote:It is very possible to accualy become slower after a cam swap. If you do not tune the cams properly that is exactally what happens.
Exactly, when it comes to changing the amount of air enters your motor and then also dealing with how your computer reacts to it, tuning is a must. I don't have a 2.4 but I know when I threw in cams on my motor, my computer made my car run Rich and had no top end power untill I finally got an SAFC-2 and took it for a dyno tuning. Bam! Problem solved.
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What would be a good way to tune a car after installing cams?
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Actually, alot of people slow down in the 1/4 with cams because it moves their powerband around. Alot of guys locally I see this happening too. Nathan (a local guy) has these cams in an auto, and slowed down nearly half a second just because it moved the power out of his useful range.
I personally launch at 3500rpm, so unless you have tires that hook decently with higher RPM launches, you're screwed.
Oh yeah, I think an SAFC and AFPR would help tons with cams, so would HP tuners... really maximize the gains but it also means an extra level of complexity.
that's why you make sure you are using a cam that will help you, not just claim a gain in a useless RPM range
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Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:that's why you make sure you are using a cam that will help you, not just claim a gain in a useless RPM range
BINGO!
You can't always think that a Stage 2 is better than a Stage 1 because it's higher in levels. A stage 2 camshaft brings your powerband upwards and might be uncomfortably higher than some would want as well.
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NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:that's why you make sure you are using a cam that will help you, not just claim a gain in a useless RPM range
BINGO!
You can't always think that a Stage 2 is better than a Stage 1 because it's higher in levels. A stage 2 camshaft brings your powerband upwards and might be uncomfortably higher than some would want as well.
That was my thought too. But i dont think i have ever heard of someone with the stage 1 cams
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urweak wrote:NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:that's why you make sure you are using a cam that will help you, not just claim a gain in a useless RPM range
BINGO!
You can't always think that a Stage 2 is better than a Stage 1 because it's higher in levels. A stage 2 camshaft brings your powerband upwards and might be uncomfortably higher than some would want as well.
That was my thought too. But i dont think i have ever heard of someone with the stage 1 cams
Yeah, I have the stage 1s for the ECOTECs and I knew someone with the Stage 2s and his powerband was way up in the RPMs...mine was right at 3000 RPMs.
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sure, lift and duration are most important. but yes you need to make sure you find out where the cams shift your powerband to. if they move all your power above 4000 RPM's then what's the point?
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Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:sure, lift and duration are most important. but yes you need to make sure you find out where the cams shift your powerband to. if they move all your power above 4000 RPM's then what's the point?
Thats pretty funny.
Lift and duration are not the most important, they are the only consideration.
Its the increased duration that will alter your powerband.
4V/cyl. motors (with the large relative valve area) are much more duration sensitive than the old 2V motors, so its best to keep duration changes to a minimum. Adding computers into the mix makes it evn more difficult. With airflow being far greater than it is supposed to be in certain situations, the computer can no longer make the apropriate adjustments for fuel, and timing.
The end result is less power, not more.
I mistyped there. You should be able to tell in context by the rest of my post there that I know lift and duration aren't everything.
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Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:I mistyped there. You should be able to tell in context by the rest of my post there that I know lift and duration aren't everything.
Thats what is so funny.
Lift and duration ARE EVERYTHING.
There is nothing else to consider
NOSfly wrote:Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:I mistyped there. You should be able to tell in context by the rest of my post there that I know lift and duration aren't everything.
Thats what is so funny.
Lift and duration ARE EVERYTHING.
There is nothing else to consider
wrong. you forget lobe separation. if you judged cams by lift and duration only and not by idle quality or where it shifts your powerband to, the cam upgrade is worthless
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Wrong again, my friend.
Lobe separation is not an issue when choosing cams.There are 2 cams. Lobe separation is determined at instalation, and has nothing to do with the cams.
Idle quality is determined by duration, as is the powerband. Lobe separation can have a small affect on powerband, but as I said, that has nothing to do with the cams. Cam phasing is determined at instalation.
Lift and duration are the only two considerations.
BTW, just as an FYI, the JBP stage 2 cams are listed as 260/268 duration at .050". Its either a misprint, or they don't actually know what they are. I asked them, and they said that the number was correct. Its not. No 4V/cyl. street motor would be even remotely useful under 6-7k RPM with a duration like that. Stock is 200. HO cams are 212, and thats probably a little much duration for most people.
I would guess that they are actually in the 204-210 range.
Let me know how that works. I have LO intake cam that i want to get a cam postion senor pu on and the power steerting frive put on it as wel.
2004 Grand Prix GTP (Competition Group)
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