Well I'm getting alot of spitting and sputtering from my car when I really stomp on it now and I'm not sure what the issue is exactly. I recently changed my spark plugs, that did nothing. I also bought a fuel filter but haven't put it on yet so we'll see about that...
I was mainly wondering if my cat back could have anything to do with this since the pipe is bigger than the stock pipe was. If that shouldn't have anything to do with it what else could the problem be?
I know it could be the cat itself, or maybe if it's not the fuel filter could it be the fuel pump? I'm not exactly what you would call an expert when it comes to cars so I'm just guessing here...
But the stuttering is driving me crazy. It's not only embarassing but when I really need to take off to get out of the way of other cars and such it's killing the response time of my car moving. Oh and it only really happens when I get on it. If I'm shifting in the 2-3k range it's fine...
Any help would be great...
Its normal. You can a a resonator to quiet the poping sound down. Also by adding the catback your lossing a little of your low-end, but adding to the high end.
When its stuttering dose the engine lose power? Or dose it just make a raspy nose?
You shouldnt really lose any power with adding a cat back. you might move the power curve up more but that is it.
(whitch you really shouldn't notice)
Sounds to me like a ignition problem if the engine is hesitating.
the engine is losing power...
what kind of problem could it be with the ignition?
Could be many of things.. bad coil pack.. Couldnt tell you with out looking at the car my self..
When it was losing power did the engine light flash? Do you have a check engine light on? If so get that scaned and go from them
When was the last time you changed the o2 sensor?
If it only occurs during a "stomp", my first guess would be the fuel pump not giving enough when the demand is made. Do you get a stutter when trying to do a cold-start? What about a warm-start?
sometimes when i start it it will bog down almost to the point that it stalls. the only way i can describe it is that it feels like an air bubble trapped in the exhaust and i have to rev it up a couple times to get the air out then it idles fine....
and my check engine light started going on and off recently. it'll be on for a day or two then shut off for a day or two. the computer shows an 02 sensor, could that be the main cause of this whole issue? cause i really don't want to spend $100 on an 02 sensor if it's not going to fix my issue...
i have yet to put my fuel filter on...haven't had too much time...
i would say it the o2 sensor.
When mine was doing this i replaced my plugs and wires and cured the problem. Once in a while when I have the pedal pegged and i basically get to redline i get a pop and then shifts into the next gear. Its really rare and random. So its got me clueless. I now have Nology hotwires, MSD coil pacs and new plugs. Its prolly ignition related.
Read what i said ^^
Well if you got the ECU scaned and it says that the O2 is bad change it right away.. You will get improved gas mileage and make that 100 bucks back at the gas pump.
My first guess was your O2 sensor... replace that as its probably damaged.
my friend has a ford ranger with the same problem. when he is accelerating hard, the engine missed and the truck jersk, from about 3500 to 5000 rpm.
he changed his plus and wires and it didnt solve the problem either.
it could be the O2 sensor in your case. that is used to tell the computer how much fuel to dump in the motor.
but it could be anything involving fuel, or spark.
could be:
fuel pump
pressure regulator
injectors
fuel filter
dristributor
coil
plugs (you said you already changed)
wires ( you said you already changed)
id say change the o2 sensor since you are getting a code for it. it may be the cause. or you can take it somewhere to get it diagnosed or fixed. but once they see that code, they will change the o2 sensor and charge you markup price plus labor rate.
ahfunaki wrote:Well I'm getting alot of spitting and sputtering from my car when I really stomp on it now and I'm not sure what the issue is exactly. I recently changed my spark plugs, that did nothing. I also bought a fuel filter but haven't put it on yet so we'll see about that...
I was mainly wondering if my cat back could have anything to do with this since the pipe is bigger than the stock pipe was. If that shouldn't have anything to do with it what else could the problem be?
I know it could be the cat itself, or maybe if it's not the fuel filter could it be the fuel pump? I'm not exactly what you would call an expert when it comes to cars so I'm just guessing here...
But the stuttering is driving me crazy. It's not only embarassing but when I really need to take off to get out of the way of other cars and such it's killing the response time of my car moving. Oh and it only really happens when I get on it. If I'm shifting in the 2-3k range it's fine...
Any help would be great...
check your O2 Sensors!!!!
and o2 sensors do NOT cost no $100!!!!
Kardain wrote:Tonite on Fox:
When X's attack
I forgot why i dont post here anymore.
ok fine $80...
When I got a quote for my downstream sensor it was something along the lines of $80...I didn't realize that $80 was too far off from $100. Ass.
REPLACE YOUR o2 SENSOR THE ONE IN THE MANIFOLD if you replace that it should cure your problem if it does not then replace the rear one you can pick up an o2 sensor for about 35 bucks max at an auto parts store connect it to the stock wire and clip and be done with it just fix the dam o2 sensor thats it...
Might be too late, but I had this problem, and it was my injectors... I had a faulty one leaking...
i helped my buddy swap his ignition coil and MAF sensor last night with the ones off his girlfriends truck.
he has already hollowed out the catalytic converter
and changed all the plugs and wires.
anyone here ever hear of an o2 reading improperly and not throwing a code?
cause now its either his fuel system
transmission
or possibly the o2 sensor.
Well I wen't and had a computer hooked up today and it came back with the downstream o2 sensor bad. So I bought one and came home to put it in...and just my luck the thing is pretty much welded into the cat. So it's going to have to hold off for another day...
I changed the fuel filter too, I guess my flow wasn't too great...so we'll see if that helps at all before I get the sensor changed...
The downstream O2 is only for emissions, to check the efficiency of the catalytic converter. It will not affect the way the car runs, only throw a CEL. The best way to change it is to spray the threads of the sensor with some PB Blaster and let it soak for about 10 minutes. Then, start the car and let it warm up to operating temperature and shut it off (the hot exhaust will expand slightly, loosening the hold on the sensor). Spray the threads of the sensor with the PB Blaster again, then try to remove it. It will probably still require some grunt to get it off, but that should do it. When working with the hot exhaust, be careful not to burn yourself, a pair of Mechanix Wear Gloves and/or Hot Sleeves will help allot.
Go ahead and replace the fuel filter. Check to make sure the vacuum line from the TB to the fuel pressure regulator is connected and doesn't have any leaks. If you haven't already done so, run a bottle of super concentrated fuel injector cleaner, to help ensure the injectors aren't having a flow problem from being too dirty. This should be done with each oil change, to ensure proper injector flow.
If you didn't do so when you replaced the exhaust, disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. This will clear the operating parameters of the PCM and it will relearn the it's fuel and spark adjustments for needed for any changes to the powertrain. This is not the same as reprogramming with the HP Tuners, but just resets the adjustments for the motor, for the best operation within the stock programming. Typically it will take about two to three days of normal driving for the PCM to relearn the new parameters.
Thanks for the info Jack
I actually sprayed PB Blaster on it yesterday and let it sit for a while and it still didn't come off. I ended up getting it off today though. I had to use a breaker bar with an extremely long handle to get enough leverage to bust it loose.
And just like you said that the O2 sensor wouldn't change the way the car ran, it still runs like crap.
So to recap I have:
Changed my plugs
Changed my downstream O2 sensor
Changed my fuel filter
And it still runs like crap.
Now where do I go? It looks like I'm going to have check the vaccum line to the TB like you said. I'm probably going to change the the coil packs very very soon. What about the injectors? Could something dealing with those be bad? If so would it throw a CEL or not?
Any help is awesome...
the problem with my friends truck ended up being the camshaft position sensor shaft. not the sensor itself, the shaft it reads from. he changed the sensor alone but that did no good.
have you changed your o2 sensor up front yet? check that out and looing into the camshaft sensor. if it has one.
This issue just sucks cause there are so many different things that could be wrong...
I don't want to go fixing all these random things just to find out it's not the issue...
I had the same problem with the sputter and hesitation of a hard acceleration. The compuer showed O2 but that didnt work. We boiled it down the the fuel pump. I changed it, put in a high flow venom fuel pump. Solved my problems, but might not yours. That fuel pump cost me $200 (just pump.). A OEM pump (with sending unit) is $300. If your gas gauge works fine, just get a pump. But they dont sell an OEM pump only.
Brad
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