Ive got the 2200 motor and I have a P & P head, performance plug wires, a fart can, and a cheapie CAI. My question is im wonderin what else i can do to get some more HP I know i could get a header also but after that where else can I go? ive read the forums and done some research. Any HP(even if it gives 2-3 hp) mod would help and btw Im stayin NA. A future thx to any input.
all your going to get from people here, is that engine is too hard to get HP staying NA, not to mention a ton of $$ when you can just slap a turbo on and save you alot of money. I had that motor in a 5 speed and it was a dog, im' so glad i got an eco now!
search for some of madjacks posts. I think one of his really good ones was in the 2200 power record thread. He figured out how to get real decent numbers using a desktop dyno. if you want to stay NA I highly reccomend you read that post.
This was taken directly from Mad Jack's thread. I saved it to my desktop for reference as I'm doing the same build.
Mad Jack wrote:
Okay, I've been playing with the Desktop Dyno Basic, again and I found some really good info! Remember these statements are as of yet untested on a real engine, but the Pro Racing Sim software is supposed to be the most accurate software available, presuming the tuning is done correctly.
Let's say you've got a 2.2L/2200 with the normal bolt-ons; intake, 56mm TB on 2200 (55mm bored over TB on 2.2L), Header and full 2 1/4" exhaust (including cat). You motor is in need of rebuild and you want some more torque and horsepower and you don't want the hassle some of us are going through for last bit of grunt.
1. Do a good rebuild of the block, this includes: bore and hone the block (+.5mm/+.020", +.75mm/.030" or +1mm/.040" as needed) using some good stock replacement pistons (hyperutectic if possible), good rings (molly preferably), good bearings (Clevite77), a '93 & older oil pump, new timing set, gaskets, etc.... Get the block surfaced to straighten the deck and/or for more compression, but not more than about .030" between the head and block. Get it balanced. This is what all basic builds should have done.
2. Get/build a good head. If you build your own, do a good P&P, get it surfaced (remember no more than .030" between head and block) get a good valve job (+1mm OS valves if you like) and make sure your springs are in spec or just get a set of new stock springs. If you don't want the work just get the Patriot Performance head (Stage II, preferably).
3. Get Crane Cams to regrind your cam. Here's the surprise I found on the dyno sim I ran: the Crane Powermax 2030 grind, the very same specs as their SBC grind. It's specs are 204int./214exh @ .050", .429" int/.452" exh w/ 1.5:1 rockers. Yes 2200s step down to this ratio, the stock rocker arms will probably work to, but will push the limits of your springs. 2.2L's you can get by with a 1.6:1 rocker, but you will push the springs really hard too. Either one of the previously mentioned will seriously risk valve float. Yes, the intake lift is less than stock, but don't worry you like the final results. What this cam does is, give you a little more intake duration and even more exhaust duration and lift, with a later intake opening. What does all this mean, more torque and horsepower across the board. These are some decent gains, even on a stock motor! If you do all the things listed above, you should be making more torque and horsepower than a stock Eco and with the peaks at lower rpms! (With the proper tuning, of course.) No need to raise the rev limiter here either, the power and torque take a nose dive right after the 6000rpm limit.
Those with a manual tranny should have no problems running this motor, automatic you will still need a torque converter(2560stock replacement/2600aftermarket-2795/2800 rpm stall) and/or lower gear ratio, depending on tranny model and set-up.
Note: this cam will work very well with nitrous, up to a 75 shot if you use the better parts listed above and the proper ignition upgrades.
All that above might read like a lot of work, but it's not that much for a rebuild using mostly stock replacement parts and some typical bolt-ons. If you do some shopping around you can get this done for less than the typical Eco swap. If you do your own work, you could just about put that nitrous system on there too!
Hell, this combo (w/o the nitrous) is supposed to make more torque and horsepower than my current set-up! That will change once I get my new head done. If I had this program before I needed to do my rebuild, I would have followed this set up.Now if I can get all the little things to stop wearing out on me, I'll get my new head done.
