Oh lord!!!! Please get this done, ITBs would be nuts on your car.
Much props to the Skwirl, love the hardcore sleeper action dude. I'll be keeping an eye on this for sure!
edit: what size are those? They look massive in that pic. That could be fun to control the idle on.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:33 AM
Keeping my eye on this one.
push that envelope son!!!!
I had a sneaking suspicion when I read what you posted in one of the other threads about map signals and ITB's defintaley watching this!! Nice work!
Cadwz24 wrote:push that envelope son!!!!
thats for damn sure....wow I love what your doing for the J community.
about damn time a JBody tried this!!! im keeping my eye on this thread......
Really not sure how usable this will be... my big concern was pushing peak past 8200.
Good luck bro
Built, bottled, ready for 11s. 14.446@93.74mph, 1.848 60' N/A.
I need to pay the Skwirl to build my motor
Can't wait to see the outcome and keep the track vids comin!
15.2@89mph 2.171 60ft. 9.830 1/8 R.I.P. "LULU"
Sweet. Do you have a orbital attachment for the mill? Then you can do the rounds perfect. Also a "fly cutter" would also work great for the rounds.
Can not remember the proper name of the tool.... sorry. Also what material are you making this flange out of. Phenolic is fairly cheap and easy enough to obtain...
Where are the ITB's from?
Good job!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, January 30, 2007 10:47 AM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
youll want to have a tube running from each port to the map sensor , kinda similar to the fuel rail
also the length from the port to the throttle blade , as well as injector placement , will change the effective power range
as well as the inlet into the itb set up will alter the effective range also
GOOD LUCK !!! and have fun and post lots more pics and info
Very cool, are you doing the math to get everything where it should be for optimal performance/power band, or just making it fit and see what you can get out of it for now?
15.3 @ 89.97mph, 14's on the way?
i love it. you're crazy man
HURRY AND GET THAT DONE hahaha cant wait to see it in action
N/A ECOTEC FTW!!!!!!!!!!!
The one, the only, ME.
thanks for the support guys!! to answer some Qs...
[quote=97trd(???™)]
youll want to have a tube running from each port to the map sensor , kinda similar to the fuel rail
also the length from the port to the throttle blade , as well as injector placement , will change the effective power range
as well as the inlet into the itb set up will alter the effective range also
GOOD LUCK !!! and have fun and post lots more pics and info
I'm going to use the factory vacuum ports on the throttles for my MAP signal.. hopefully its strong enough as this is a common prob with ITBs but i'll let you guys know how it works out...
injectors are gonna be in the factory location
Ian Brydon wrote:
Very cool, are you doing the math to get everything where it should be for optimal performance/power band, or just making it fit and see what you can get out of it for now?
I'm using an online calculator for RPM power band and overall runner length (top of valve to back of butterfly) its at this webpage:
Bowling & Grippo ITB runner length calculator
for an 18" overall runner.. this is what I'm looking at for power:
# Input length is 18 inches
# For 2nd harmonic, RPM range is from 6527 to 7920 with a pulse strength of 10 percent
# For 3rd harmonic, RPM range is from 4904 to 5604 with a pulse strength of 7 percent
# For 4th harmonic, RPM range is from 3823 to 4276 with a pulse strength of 4 percent
this means I need 15" of clearance from the surface of the head to the end of the velocity stack on the throttles.
its not going to fit very well, but I'm going to try my hardest to make it as clean as possible and to work properly!
the throttles are from a suzuki 1300R hayabusa and they're 44mm taper throttle bodies
great thing about them is you can seperate them for proper port spacing (held together by 3 really long screws)
this is the prototype manifold and is being made out of steel. if it performs the way I want, I'm going to make a duplicate in aluminum and see how it does.
I'm going to try my hardest to get this to work guys! I'll be posting updates as I go
also 97trd,
if I do find lack of sufficient vacuum, I was goign to use the stock hayabusa fuel rail as a vacuum manifold and hook up the map sensors and what not from there.. hopefully the volume in the rail would boost the map signal slightly.. its a problem that will have to be addressed with trial and error
