So since I can't really afford to have my daily driver laid up all the time, or waiting on parts or time to install said parts, I'm going to the easy way out - I'm going to build my engine on a stand.
I need some advice though. First off, it's going to be just the block - I'll be swapping it into my car when the motor is completely finished.
First item of business is this: where can I find an engine stand? Is it something I can order online, is there a special type? I would like to keep it on something sturdy (besides the floor) and hanging it from a chain/cherry picker type thing just makes me uneasy.
Second item of business: junkyard motors. Is there something I need to watch out for (besides the obvious blown bottom end or damaged block? I'll be draining the block and cleaning it up, most of it sent to get polished, and completely reworking the valvetrain/pistons/cams. The only problem is I don't know if there's anything hidden a junk block might have in store...
...and has anyone done this before? Phlatcav did, I think, but I wanted to talk 1 on 1 with someone who's built their engine like this.
Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Yeah i got one from there, i beleve it was under 50 bux!
well if you do go with a junk yard block, after the tear down take it to a machine shop and have them go through it and clean it up really good. they can also hone the cylinders to asure a good seal, then you should be good to assemble and rip it down the road.
12.7@110MPH with 10PSI.
pep boys was having a sale on one not too long ago
Theres usually some good buys on ebay, look for low mileage if possible, and get whatever has not been sitting the longest
sitting around = not good for motors the fresher the better
You will need a variety of lubricants for the reassembly of the engine, as well as some heavy duty degreasers to clean everything out real good, so you dont make a mess of your house
You should be able to tell if theres major issues, like cracks in the block, bad crankshaft etc, check the oil pan for metal shavings, inspect the valve cover and under on the cams, and if you can rip off the head and that will give you a good look at the pistons and cylinder walls, really though taking off the oil pan and valve cover should reveal any major issues, even if the head is shot, they are pretty cheap to replace its the bottom end you want in good shape
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
I get my engine stands from local places, basically whoever is cheapest. Although make sure you get one rated for enough weight, I know a few guys who have tried to rebuild V8's on little stands and ended up dropping thier motor becasue the stand broke.
When I pick up junk engines there are a few things I look for. I try to find one with low milage obviously, but I also try to find automatics. Automatics are less likly to have been beaten on. I also pop off the valve cover when I can, to take a look at the head. What you want to avoid is an engine with brown discoloration in the head. On a low milage engine there should be little to no staining. I also avoid buy engines that have been sitting outside or for too long. I'm lucky that the local guy i buy most of my engines from pulls them right away and puts them in a big shed.
Ok, so a quick list on engine look-fors then:
1. Fresh motor
2. Automatic, if possible
3. Little to no staining on bottom (inside?) of head
4. No metal shavings in oil pan
5. No cracks in block (obviously...lol)
6. Something stored inside (or under a hood, at best?)
Good summary? I think this is some good information that could be really useful to people looking to pick up a junk block.
That Thing Got An Ecotec? wrote:Ok, so a quick list on engine look-fors then:
1. Fresh motor
2. Automatic, if possible
3. Little to no staining on bottom (inside?) of head
4. No metal shavings in oil pan
5. No cracks in block (obviously...lol)
6. Something stored inside (or under a hood, at best?)
Good summary? I think this is some good information that could be really useful to people looking to pick up a junk block.
Just to elaborate on a couple points.
3. The staining is on the top of the head under the valve cover, where the cams are. The inside of the valves cover will also be stained. An example of a nice block is like the last one I picked up, when I removed the valve cover it was so clean you almost couldn't tell it had ever had oil in it. This is a better then average example, but the other two I picked up at the same time had just a light staining. Oh and you can get rid of the staining by hot tanking the head. It's not a bad thing, just an indication of how much run time is on the engine.
4. Most yards drain the fluids but if you can drain the oil. Incase you've never seen metal shavings in oil, they look like tiny silver glitter in the oil. Instead of the oil being sold black/brown it will have silver (gold in the case of broze shavings) swirls in it.
The most important thing if it is a JY motor look at the car it is coming out of. If it is hit then good, means it was running good enough to get into the accident. If it is sitting looking pristene, look for holes or signs of damage. Also if possible bring a booster pack with you and start it up if everything is there. I do this with every JY motor I can do so I dont have to guess. Also very important make sure the hood is on and the oil cap, a friend of mine made this mistake and got a 3.1 filled with rust. Check the oil cap and if there is chocolate milk on the underside of the cap thats a sign of a blown HG, and naturally check the oil.
But since you are rebuilding it and having it machined IE (.020 clean up bore or better) you should be fine. We pull chevy 350 SBs at the yard here for 100$ and rebuild them, doesnt matter the mileage as long as it is getting machined and properly inspected to spec.
As for stands harbor freight has one for 29.99 I have 4 of them all with motors on them just sitting, never had a problem they can hold I believe 750-1000 lbs.
Have fun!
http://members.cardomain.com/vertz24 1998 Z24 Convertible
2.3-2.4 HO ADAPTER FLANGES 65$ shipped, Check GP Forum!
