I hopefully found a guy to fix my exterior. so that come first. but im going to go ahead and start saving a little cash now for my head i want built. The is for a 99 cav. im wanting to run a 75-125 shot of nitrous at the track. my plan so far:
port and polish (mild) i figured a mild port and polish would be good enough
surface the head about .025", to give compression i slight bump cause nitrous loves high compression engines.
Lifters:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D66915&N=400405+308262+115&autoview=sku
Stud:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D134%2D7201&N=115&autoview=sku
im also wanting to get valves the +1mm one. just not sure where to buy them at for a decent price.
and also im wondering about springs. also what kind of valve job should i go for 3 angle or 5 angle?
thanks all. and also will the lifters and studs i posted be fine? or are they junk. any comments and suggestions is appreciated.
Well for the valves you can get them from Karo at carcustoms.net
LINKY
http://www.carcustoms.net/product_info.php?cPath=265_22_32_596&products_id=429
as for your springs.....I remember a long discussion on springs for the 2200 with madjack and notec as well as slowolj. i tried finding it but I only took like 5 minutes ( taking off to go play pool ). Madjack also made a thred with lots of info on rockers and studs for the 2200 as well.
Have you thought of a patriot head by chance? might be a little bit cheaper in the long run since you wont have to wait to sell your spare rockers and studs.....just a thought.
good luck- Jeff
that could get a bit pricey... the custom work that is. i guess ill have too weigh the custom head against the patriot head. i just figure id get more performance if done customly other than a mass produced head. anymore inputs are welcomed.
I think you should do a full build. The machining for the springs really isn't all that bad, maybe $200 extra (well worth it though). Your final price will be about the same as the Patriot if you do the porting yourself (not that hard to do a street port), and you'll actually have a decent valvetrain (which you can't get from Patriot).
Also, don't deck the head, deck the block. And remember that you can only deck so far before you need new pushrods (Jack could probably give more insight as to the limits here).
I believe the only thing you asked that hasn't been touched on is the valve job. 3-angle for street, 5-angle for race. The reason is that the more cuts that are made (angles), the less surface area the valve actually contacts. As the contact area decreases, the stress increases, which requires a 'refresher' machining more often.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
this is my dd.... so i should prolly play it safe and go street. ohvnotec, do you have any info on how to street port the head. ive got the dremel tool, but figured if im porting ill get a dye grinder. ive read the tutorial on how to port and polish yourself im just veryveryafraid of ruining it.
Thanks everyone. please more.
I did my V6 heads with a dremel, just take it easy or you'll burn up the motors quick. The electric die grinder I have is WAY to powerful for aluminum heads, you would need one of those fancy-pants engraver's grinders, or a air compressor large enough to handle an air grinder (mine barely works and it's as powerful as they come in 115V). I've been wanting to do a step by step port job, but haven't had time (this summer hopefully).
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
i might go with that electric grinder i posted from harbor freight and try that speed control unit. it would be cheaper than the nice electric grinder, as always im going for the most bang for buck. whats the highest speed you want to do a p&p with.
i gotta give you credit for doing it with a dremel. sounds like that would take awhile.
[quote=DrÃkÉ]I hopefully found a guy to fix my exterior. so that come first. but im going to go ahead and start saving a little cash now for my head i want built. The is for a 99 cav. im wanting to run a 75-125 shot of nitrous at the track. my plan so far:
port and polish (mild) i figured a mild port and polish would be good enough
surface the head about .025", to give compression i slight bump cause nitrous loves high compression engines.
Lifters:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D66915&N=400405+308262+115&autoview=sku
Stud:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP%2D134%2D7201&N=115&autoview=sku
im also wanting to get valves the +1mm one. just not sure where to buy them at for a decent price.
and also im wondering about springs. also what kind of valve job should i go for 3 angle or 5 angle?
thanks all. and also will the lifters and studs i posted be fine? or are they junk. any comments and suggestions is appreciated.
Whoa whoa whoa, who says nitrous likes higher compression engines. NOT TRUE! Nitrous if you didnt know is like a turbo! Just shorter burst of compressed a N20 a.k.a PSI. Havent you heard that the lower the compression ratio the better the car is suited for a turbo. Well just like turbo, nitrous is being forced into the engine, only difference, turbo is air. So basically your doing good by doing port a polishing to built the head a bit, but when you get that done, try to invest in 9:1 or 8:1 ratio pistons to keep your compression ratio low with a built head.
Excuse my writing,
Correction
"Just shorter burst of air which in this case is N20"
Take out the "aka PSI" part. I had erase something there, but i guess that failed lol.
that slight bump in compression will be good for the nitrous actually. my friend is running
10:5 compression with a 150 shot of n2o. he runs an msd spark controller though to prevent detonation. but being our engines have aluminum heads and a low compression to start off with you will be ok just run some colder plugs ud pry only have to drop down one step
let me do another search and read but from what i hear a bump in compression on a 2200 with nitrous is a good thing.... brb
Never really thought a small bump up in compression could help. I guess i can understand a 10 ratio. Drake I believe having a ratio b/w from a 10 to an 8 is good for Nitrous. But since our cars bring 9 I guess what would be best is to get forged parts. and purchase the performance mods with the same ratio.
From KB pistons:
Quote:
The strongest engines have less compression ratio, less spark advance, and more nitrous
and
Quote:
High compression ratios can be used with nitrous but shifting the maximum pressure after top dead center becomes more and more difficult. I prefer to use street compression ratios and then just work with adding more nitrous to get desired Hp levels.
I think 10:1 would be a good point for our little 4-bangers.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
There you go. Problem solved lol. Good search Notec
with that being said wouldnt stock compression be better.. performance wise that is
I would have thought so, but maybe if all the upgrades compenents are forged or performance parts and they amount to a 10 ratio, maybe your better off that way. If you can find forged 9 ratio or performance parts with 9 ratio then BINGO! Thats what i would guess.
You have to remember that unlike lowering CR for boost, your nitrous isn't always running. So unless the car is track only, your off-the-bottle performance will fade off with a lower CR. Also, the "more nitrous" portion of that quote is not always a possibility for us, we have to deal with things like FWD traction and a stock crank. He is referring to 300+hp nitrous shots on V8s, we can't do that.
fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.
