I found out last week when taking my car in to get the wheel alignment checked that I need some work done.
-I need new control arm busings b/c there totally worn out(the mechanic could almost put his finger through the rear bushings on each side.
-Also need sway bar end link bushings(might replace D bushings as well) b/c the sway bar ends arent even being held tight against the control arm (gaps in bushings and not tight up against the control arm)
So last week I called the dealer to find out about how much the parts would be. GM does off a complete replacement with bushings and lower ball joint but there like $300/side.
I was like NO WAY. So I asked him if the lower control arms were all the same and he said that there a couple different ones. I was like "WHAT?" from what I found online (gm parts direct) they look to be all the same with just different bushings pending suspension.
So here are the questions that I need answered.
1.)Are all 95-02 or even up to 05 lower control arms all the same? (what my plans were to go get a set from the wreckers for cheap. Get poly bushings and put in a new ball joint and then install myself then take in for a wheel alignment)
2.)I checked multiple performance shops on the weekend and no one can find the poly control arm bushings. (even prothane which I thought made them, did not even list them on there website.)
3.)Local performance shops can order prothane and energy suspension(i think it was energy suspension) but they couldnt find anything regarding sunfire or even cavalier in any catalogue so people I need some parts numbers.
4.)If I can order energy suspension end links for the sway bar what do I need and if there are any part numbers or should I just replace with OEM swap bar end link bushings.
**I thought that I would be a good idea to get a used set of control arms pending there the same. Then I can get new lower ball joints installed(do those need pressed in?) in them and the new bushings pressed in. Only problem I would think is If I replace the end link bushings I would like to replace the D bushings as well. Are they accessible easily?**
Any help would be appriciated.
you need to drill out the three pins that hold the ball joint on the a-arm. the new ball joints will have bolts.
air hammer + chisel bit is far easier to remove those rivets than a drill.....TONS faster.
just FYI, but yes, thats how you change the BJ.
My bad... Posted in wrong forum. Can someone move this post to Suspension & break?
Ok so all lower control arms are the same (that is what I wanted to hear). I'ver ordered from karo many times, but I was hoping maybe pending on stock if I could find them locally to get this job done faster.
Any idea on the sway bar bushings what I should do for the end links and D-bushings?
I just talked with my parts guy at GM. He said there is a difference in the FE1 and FE2 control arms. Not the bushings just the control arms. How is that possible?
This is really getting on my nerves.
probably locations/size of the holes for the sway bar.
The metal part of the control arm is the same for all years, all suspensions, all models. The difference is the bushings for the different suspension levels. GM does not sell the metal part by itself, thus the different part numbers.
I'm using Grand Am control arms... they are the same as well from 99+... (except for the 99 aluminum ones, but that's another story...)
Get the Prothane bushings from Karo or another J-body supporting supplier... you'll be much happier with them over the stock crap (that rear bushing is crap... never lasts... my girlfriend's Neon is the same way... Prothane bushings = way better now!).
Quote:
my girlfriend's Neon is the same way
Neons have a major problem with tier bushings....WAY worse than J-bodies. I make lots of $$ changing out those neon bushings....over and over again. Did the prothane actually correct the problem they have with them??
It seems their rubber bushings would separate from the metal sleeve extremely easy....does this not happen with the urethane ones?? If so, I will start giving people the option to install those instead.
Last I checked, there was not a urethane bushing made for the neon, presumably because of this problem.
Prothane and Energy both make 'em for the Neon... Prothane is a 2 piece, Energy is a 3 piece and harder to install (allegedly...). There is also a full metal replacement from Rage but that was a little overkill for her daily driver
While neons tear the inside part away from the metal... J-cars tear the outer edge. I've seen lots come out in pieces when you take the control arm out.
Thanks for the input lenko, YOU DA MAN!
I'll call the wreckers to get a set of lower control arms since there all the same. I'm in contact with karo about the bushings. But I have another question. What should I do about the sway bar end links.?
Doing some searching on other posts I found one saying "energy suspension 9.8120R" is the proper part number for the end links.
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=125937&t=76721&p=2
**Note but look at the last two posts in the link above. Do they say I should use 9.8122? or the 9.8120R. Like the guy put the wrong kit on his car.
It makes me wonder since the end links are trash what about the D-bushings on the rear of the sway bar. I heard you have to drop sub frame to get at them?
Should I replace the ball joints while I get the ones from the wreckers?
go to an advance auto, get the trw swaybar links. they are urethane just like the energy suspension, at 1/2 the cost. same with the sway bar mounting D bushings.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, June 23, 2008 5:04 PM
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In canada we dont have advance auto.
whatever local store you have that sells auto parts. if they sell a "heavy duty" version of the sway bar links, then thats them. look at them before you buy them. if they're red, they're urethane, if they're black, they're rubber.
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