Hey,
The cams I put in work great, along of course with HPT. My question for you guys is that now that I have bigger injectors, better timing, more spark and fuel could I use an MSD? If I can create more spark with the extra fuel, sounds like I should get more HP once I re-tune as well? Makes sense to me, but not sure of how all this mechanics work. Appreciate the help. Help me get more HP please lol.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
I don't see it being worth it. I have a lot more hp and the stock ignition system is working very well. You're probably best off going with a ported head if you already have the I/E & cams.
12.770 @ 111.99 Intercooled Eaton M62
Thanks.. I thought as much..Trying to get your hp #'s man, but its gonna take a crap load of $ lol. Besides. Will look into P & P
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
Well, since your cammed and most likely running higher than stock redline, its definately time for the LE5 intake mani - larger runners and a huge plenum = high rpm fun!
Is that the 2.4L Cobalt intake? I really want to get that and its not expensive. I 'll have to get re-tuned though. Don't want to start with building the engine just yet, but the intake mani will give me some extra hp for now. Is it true on a stock eco it produces 11 hp and 9 lbs torque? Is that to the crank?
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
02ECOTECIMPORTKILLER wrote:Is that the 2.4L Cobalt intake? I really want to get that and its not expensive. I 'll have to get re-tuned though. Don't want to start with building the engine just yet, but the intake mani will give me some extra hp for now. Is it true on a stock eco it produces 11 hp and 9 lbs torque? Is that to the crank?
Yes it's the 2.4L cobalt intake. Crate engine depot has a dyno graph on their website. On an untuned cobalt 2.2 with an intake and cat back, it gained an additional 13 peak whp. Obviously I'd take that with a grain of salt, but the more telling tale is the shape of the graph - at the stock redline of ~6300rpm it gained nearly 25whp and it still appears to be climbing. Compare that to stock where power takes a noticeable dive after 5500 rpm.
This intake would compliment bigger cams very very well IMO.
Nice to know!!! I'm def. buying it then. I've only heard about having to drill in some hole to tap something into it. Otherwise, the install isn't too crazy. Anyone second this? I had issues with trying to keep high power after 6500. My power would take a dive right at 6500. I do have a 62 mm TB, its gonna fit on the 2.4 mani?
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
putting it on our car's is a task in itself, it is not an easy bolt on for the cavalier, there is some grinding of a bolt and the tb to make it fit.. it can be done but takes tedious work
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
Qwibby {T3H Old QBE} wrote:putting it on our car's is a task in itself, it is not an easy bolt on for the cavalier, there is some grinding of a bolt and the tb to make it fit.. it can be done but takes tedious work
Hmmm i got the kit from crate engine depot which includes an adapter plate. The only extra thing you will need is a vaccuum tee so that you can tee together the emmissions and FPR lines. PM me if/when you do this mod and I'll show you a pic of what I mean. Also you will need to drill a whole in the plate where the idle air control valve is. This is not an exact science unless you want the plate to look nice when you remove the TB.
The 62mm TB will not be a problem - I have it too.
I appreciate it oldskool. Will be doing this mod very soon. How much of a difference did you notice?
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
02ECOTECIMPORTKILLER wrote:I appreciate it oldskool. Will be doing this mod very soon. How much of a difference did you notice?
Well, my other mods are in my registry. I do not yet have a wideband or hpt, but i think I'm running quite lean at WOT especially in the upper rpm, because part throttle feels great, lots of punch. But if i floor it and take it up to redline it chokes out. Based on others experience, the stock injectors are slightly undersized even for a completely stock engine. I'm guessing my stock injectors are maxxed out by 4k rpm at WOT, just based on the feel of the car. If thats the case, I'll be ecstatic because I'm making significantly more power than stock
see roofy ran into a long problem with this and it took him a decent amount of time to get it to work... maybe I just needed a second opinion... thanks!
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
Qwibby {T3H Old QBE} wrote:see roofy ran into a long problem with this and it took him a decent amount of time to get it to work... maybe I just needed a second opinion... thanks!
Hmmm did he just get the manifold and not the entire kit? That would make life quite difficult, especially without the throttle body adapter plate...
We are both talking about the LE5 eco manifold right? Not the HO manifold for the LD9? lol
i just rocked 3 bolts in my throttle body and it was fine no leakage I promise
MSD wouldnt do much. ur theory is a bit off. your better off doing more bolt ons or engine work. Id go for a LW Aluminum flywheel next. maybe a P&P job after. if you drag race shrothrow shift kit would make u faster. perofmance clutch. you could start ditching weight too. passenger seat and spare tire are easy ways to dtich a lot of weight. bascially think more about way to make HP or HP:Weight
Working on obtainting an M-Class license... ?? Hint: 2 wheels.
I used 3 different ignition systems and got mixed results.
On my 1987 Fiero 2m4, the DIS-2 with Accel coil packs and Magnecor wires did absolute wonders for it on the high end.
There was almost no affect on the low end, but I almost could not believe what it did for the freeway.
In fact I never had a mod of any kind make this much difference.
But this was for a 2.5 liter TBI Iron Duke engine, and it probably woke up because the crutch on this particular engine's high end was the ignition system.
On my 1989 Dodge Daytona ES 2.5 TBI I installed an Omni Torquer ignition with KV-85 ignition wires and it made a big difference on the lows and mids and some on the high end. The response, and excelleration was much better. But what I like the most, was there was like a spot at 35mph where the transmission would shift and it took awhile to excellerate, it smoothed that out. I also had the phenomenon of when this car would floor it, there were run-away rpms, lots of noise, but you went nowhere. The ignition helped this a bit, but what eliminated it totally was when I ported the TB, and intake manifold. The TBI system has that injector right in the path of air flow, and I dremilled it all around significantly to make it breath.
On my 1988 Fiero Formula 2.8 liter V-6, I installed the Pro Street ignition, KV-85 wires and it came with it's own high output coil. I seriously could not tell that it did a thing to lows, mids or highs. I spent $350 on this kit and was charged $100 to install, what a rip-off.
I will say this, the cars that responded greatly to the ignition kits were old 4 bangers using TBI motors. New cars use much better ignitions, but I do not know if they are better than the MSD DIS-2 or the Jacob's Electronics Omni Torquer. But if the new ignition is inferior, it probably is not by much. The difference would probably be like what happened to my Fiero Formula, no noticeable difference at all.
2003 Sunfire with 2 1/4 inch turbo muffler, 2 1/4 piping, 2 1/2 inch resonator, a 2 1/4 inch catalytic converter, 2 1/2 inch down-pipe, a 4:2:1 RK Sports 'clone' header, E-bay strut brace, ground wire kit and an AEM true cold air intake NOPI edition.
