Ok, please don't flame me...I've done alot of searching and I just want to make sure i get everything right so i dont blow anything up lol

I want to run a 75 wet shot at most, I'll probably vary around with 35, 50 and 75 since I think 75 is alot of stress even though other people say it can handle it.
I know Ill need to get colder plugs, Ive read they work best gapped to .030ish(correct me if im wrong since that does seem small compared to the stock .060)
Ill also be running 93 octane.
Before i say anything, i will be getting a kit from craigslist, they say everything is there including a bottle heater which he never used.
Here's a few questions....

1. For 75 wet, do i need to retard the timing to use it or is that just a safety precaution, all honesty, i wont be running the 75 that much?
2. Mine is manual so i wont need a window switch, do all kits come with the WOT switch?
3. The WOT switch, how does that work, is it vaccum related or when the pedal touches the floor? if it is vaccum related, do most kits come with an activation switch so i can floor it without spraying?
4. Bottle heaters, is it absolutely needed? the guy i might buy from he said he never used it, maybe its broken idk, will it hurt any performance or make it unsafe?
5. All ive read is that nitrous stresses the bottom end, that includes the bearings too? or just pistons and rods? would it be a good idea to run a little thicker oil to be on the safe side?
6. I saw a kit on craigslist, the guy told me it has everything needed EXCEPT a fuel tap, Is that just a T fitting on the fuel line? im unsure what that is. where can i get one?
7. The sticky has pictures of the fuel line i need to tap into for the 2200 and I have the older 2.2, i know the fuel rail is different so would anyone have pics or give me a decent explaination to which one to tap into please
8. Is it a good idea for first try on spray to start with the 35 shot just to make sure everything works good?
9. I know i need to check my fuel pressure, and im gonna check compression too just to be safe, but what is a good Fuel pressure i should be shooting for?
10. Should i invest in a Nitrous Gauge? or is that not really worth it? is that just to tell how much is left in the bottle or the pressure in it?
11. Is a purge kit really needed for wet kit?
12. How hard does a 50 shot hit? Im asking this because of course everyone wants the most of everything, ive read my motor can handle the 75 shot but honestly i dont wanna blow anything and i just wanna be safe, so most sprays will probably be a 50, i just wanna know if ill be satisfied with it...its a personal question, but does it still make be like damn thats quick....(yeah its a ohv not fast but seriously, you understand what im asking, dont flame me)
13. Nitrous is cold, my intake is that cheap pepboys PLASTIC intake make it yourself Spectre thing...think it will crack?

I keep saying "most kits" becuase i see alot of kits on craigslist and they dont really have a description what's in them, i just wanna make sure im getting everything i need.
And now for the most important question, My motor is a 1995 2.2 OHV with 110k miles on it, yes i do beat on it quite a bit but it still runs perfect..only things done to it are intake and exhaust (performance wise)....how safe am i running nitrous? ive read the bottom ends on these motors are strong but it's my daily driver/only car...most likely ill be spraying more then i probably should, atleast for the first 10lb bottle(probably 75 shot whole bottle), then ill give it a break after ive had a little fun, do you guys think it's a totally bad idea to do or am i good? How much do you think this will shorten my motors life?

I think that's all my questions, if i have any others, ill post...thanks

Im sorry, i DO need a window switch for manual? How is that hooked up?

Ok, that last part just confused me a little...Wouldnt the nitrous shut off when i left off the gas? wit the WOT switch to activate it....so that would mean would not need a window switch?

Alright one more lol WOT switch, that would make me spray real early in the RPMs, i dont really wanna spray until about 3500ish rpms, the window switch controls that too? are all "window switches" controlled by rpms? if not, what should i get, ive googled some stuff and people say they have run wot switches without windows, and no problems...
my problem isnt gona be over revving, it's spraying too early, (thats if it does shut off when i let off the gas)...someone give me some knowledge lol

You of all people should not be dealing with nitrous and you really need to search. I have a fully functional wet kit and I figured out everything from reading the stickies and searching this forum. But since I'm feeling nice today...

1. For 75 wet, do i need to retard the timing to use it or is that just a safety precaution, all honesty, i wont be running the 75 that much?
You don't have to retard the timing but it's a necessary precaution imo. I haven't ran a 75 shot but it just makes sense.
2. Mine is manual so i wont need a window switch, do all kits come with the WOT switch?
Most kits come with a WOT switch. I don't have a push button like you see in Fast and the Furious. I hit full throttle, flip my rocker switch and I'm spraying nitrous. You don't need a window switch but it couldn't hurt, I have one for sale
3. The WOT switch, how does that work, is it vaccum related or when the pedal touches the floor? if it is vaccum related, do most kits come with an activation switch so i can floor it without spraying?
It's a microswitch that you have to mount near the throttle arm. It needs to be positioned so that it's pressed when you hit full throttle. I don't have cruise so mine's mounted in that spot.
4. Bottle heaters, is it absolutely needed? the guy i might buy from he said he never used it, maybe its broken idk, will it hurt any performance or make it unsafe?
It's not a necessity but it's a good idea. It keeps the bottle at a constant, safe pressure which is better for consistency and the life of your engine. They're easy to wire up so you'll be able to tell if it's broken pretty quick.
5. All ive read is that nitrous stresses the bottom end, that includes the bearings too? or just pistons and rods? would it be a good idea to run a little thicker oil to be on the safe side?
You're gonna be running such a small shot that I wouldn't worry about it. Our bottom ends are stout enough to handle it.
6. I saw a kit on craigslist, the guy told me it has everything needed EXCEPT a fuel tap, Is that just a T fitting on the fuel line? im unsure what that is. where can i get one?
It's just a brass or aluminum T fitting. It's easy to find them on eBay or online in general.
7. The sticky has pictures of the fuel line i need to tap into for the 2200 and I have the older 2.2, i know the fuel rail is different so would anyone have pics or give me a decent explaination to which one to tap into please
Just compare your fuel lines and you'll figure it out pretty quickly
8. Is it a good idea for first try on spray to start with the 35 shot just to make sure everything works good?
Yes
9. I know i need to check my fuel pressure, and im gonna check compression too just to be safe, but what is a good Fuel pressure i should be shooting for?
Idle should be around 42 so as long as it's not dipping too much below that, you'll be fine. I have a fuel pressure gauge in my A pillar just so I can keep an eye on it.
10. Should i invest in a Nitrous Gauge? or is that not really worth it? is that just to tell how much is left in the bottle or the pressure in it?
They're only like $30, it tells you the pressure
11. Is a purge kit really needed for wet kit?
No but it gives you a better shot and it's a cool way to show off lol. I have mine mounted where the windshield washers would be on the cowl.
12. How hard does a 50 shot hit? Im asking this because of course everyone wants the most of everything, ive read my motor can handle the 75 shot but honestly i dont wanna blow anything and i just wanna be safe, so most sprays will probably be a 50, i just wanna know if ill be satisfied with it...its a personal question, but does it still make be like damn thats quick....(yeah its a ohv not fast but seriously, you understand what im asking, dont flame me)
I'm more than happy with a 50 shot, I don't want to retard my timing either so I think you'll be just fine.
13. Nitrous is cold, my intake is that cheap pepboys PLASTIC intake make it yourself Spectre thing...think it will crack?
The nozzle will be mounted about 6 inches from the throttle body so it shouldn't. Even if it does, just get a cheap eBay aluminum intake

Ok thanks! so most kits come with everything minimum needed to run, but the rpm activation switch ill need(unless i wanna spray too early which i dont) and window switch is just for safety if i miss shift (gonna be hooked up by the wot micro switch)

Sounds like you're going to be getting a used kit so make sure everything you need is included with it because small parts add up quick. I'd just go to the link in the thread below yours and get the brand new NOS kit I have, no hassle and you get piece of mind that everything works.

get a bottle heater, and you really should retard the timing if your'e going to run a 75, probly not necessary on a 35 or even 50. anything bigger and seriously do it.

how many miles on the engine/tranny?

little under 110k miles, maybe 108ish i havent looked in a while, but do all new kits come with window switch and rpm activate switches?

no not all kits come with a window switch. pretty much every new kit should have a wot switch though.

blucavvy wrote:no not all kits come with a window switch. pretty much every new kit should have a wot switch though.

do most of you guys atleast run the RPM activation switch? i dont want it to spray too early, or does it really not matter? im only gonna be at WOT at high rpms (if high gear) and 1st gear will prbably be like the lowest RPM ill be spraying...if u get what im saying

95LsCoupe wrote:

blucavvy wrote:no not all kits come with a window switch. pretty much every new kit should have a wot switch though.

do most of you guys atleast run the RPM activation switch? i dont want it to spray too early, or does it really not matter? im only gonna be at WOT at high rpms (if high gear) and 1st gear will prbably be like the lowest RPM ill be spraying...if u get what im saying

Ive been reading, mostly mustang forums cause that's what google has brought me too...most people say with minimum kits, dont go on the pedal enough to activate nitrous in 1st and second you just hammer it and traction wont be too much of a problem.. They also have their wot micro switch under the pedal and not at the throttle plate if that makes a difference.

ALSO the MSD Dis-II (tihng to retard timing) in the FAQ, the link doesnt work, can someone help me out where to find this? and its -2 degrees for 75 shot right?

http://www.jegs.com/p/MSD-Ignition/MSD-Retard-Module-Selector/747846/10002/-1

this is all you need to retard the timing, much more affordable than dis-2.

only car with 110K on it + nitrous..... good luck....

blucavvy wrote:http://www.jegs.com/p/MSD-Ignition/MSD-Retard-Module-Selector/747846/10002/-1

this is all you need to retard the timing, much more affordable than dis-2.

Thanks!

BuiltNBoosted wrote:only car with 110K on it + nitrous..... good luck....

is it really that bad? i was reading a post here where a guy here ran 50 on a 2.4 with 180k-ish....he also didnt care about the motor, but it didnt blow....all ive read here is that the ohvs have strong bottom ends

95LsCoupe wrote:

blucavvy wrote:http://www.jegs.com/p/MSD-Ignition/MSD-Retard-Module-Selector/747846/10002/-1

this is all you need to retard the timing, much more affordable than dis-2.

Thanks!

BuiltNBoosted wrote:only car with 110K on it + nitrous..... good luck....

is it really that bad? i was reading a post here where a guy here ran 50 on a 2.4 with 180k-ish....he also didnt care about the motor, but it didnt blow....all ive read here is that the ohvs have strong bottom ends

they do, but that doesn't mean it's invincible. i honestly think you'll be ok if you stick to a 50 shot or so. anymore than that and your'e kind of asking for it.

nitrous isn't like boost where power builds up gradually. nitrous is a sudden "hit" on your engine that it's not used to receiving. your'e putting alot of stress on rods that's are pretty much maxed out from the factory, add to that that they've seen more than a few days and it's just a matter of time before something literally blows up or out of the engine.

like i said, stick to a 50 shot and i personally think you're golden. anymore than that and MAYBE an occasional shot at 75 for track days, and your'e asking for it.

blucavvy wrote:

95LsCoupe wrote:

blucavvy wrote:http://www.jegs.com/p/MSD-Ignition/MSD-Retard-Module-Selector/747846/10002/-1

this is all you need to retard the timing, much more affordable than dis-2.

Thanks!

BuiltNBoosted wrote:only car with 110K on it + nitrous..... good luck....

is it really that bad? i was reading a post here where a guy here ran 50 on a 2.4 with 180k-ish....he also didnt care about the motor, but it didnt blow....all ive read here is that the ohvs have strong bottom ends

they do, but that doesn't mean it's invincible. i honestly think you'll be ok if you stick to a 50 shot or so. anymore than that and your'e kind of asking for it.

nitrous isn't like boost where power builds up gradually. nitrous is a sudden "hit" on your engine that it's not used to receiving. your'e putting alot of stress on rods that's are pretty much maxed out from the factory, add to that that they've seen more than a few days and it's just a matter of time before something literally blows up or out of the engine.

like i said, stick to a 50 shot and i personally think you're golden. anymore than that and MAYBE an occasional shot at 75 for track days, and your'e asking for it.

So the only way to change the shot size is to go under the hood and change the jet, right? even if that, im honestly kind of scared to use nitrous that's why im asking alot of questions....i am going to buy that msd timing retarder for the 75 shot, with having that, should i use it for 35-50 shot also? maybe just retard it 1 degree since 75 shot needs 2 degrees...its there, might as well use it...if it will make it safer

i think ill keep the 35 in for daily driving, just incase i get the urge to floor it or something, mostly ill keep the switch off but knowing me its safer to have the smallest shot in there and race days ill put 50 in...and for the occasional honda garbage talkers, the 75...maybe money run to really make them cry hehe but yeah i understand its like "bang!" 50 hp in there not slowly building up although i think ive read something about there being a progressive shooter or something, im really not sure

Adding to that ^ (just trying to price things out) where can i find an RPM activated switch and a deactivation switch in one thing? like if i want to spray only between 3k and 6k(random numbers) i can only find modules that do one or the other

BuiltNBoosted wrote:only car with 110K on it + nitrous..... good luck....

Wow, I assumed some n00b said that. True he's an idiot but he should be fine with just a 35 or 50 shot.

Back on topic, save nitrous for the track. There's a reason you need 1 step colder plugs at least and you don't need to do any more stupid things on the street anyway.

95LsCoupe wrote:Adding to that ^ (just trying to price things out) where can i find an RPM activated switch and a deactivation switch in one thing? like if i want to spray only between 3k and 6k(random numbers) i can only find modules that do one or the other

that's what a window switch does. it allows the car to know to only spray in between a certain "window" of rpm's.

a progressive controller could be a good idea, but i have a feeling for your setup it's basically unnecessary. that's usually added in to gain traction. you have a 2200, i don't think your'e going to have so much torque off the line you can't gain traction by 2nd lol

blucavvy wrote:

95LsCoupe wrote:Adding to that ^ (just trying to price things out) where can i find an RPM activated switch and a deactivation switch in one thing? like if i want to spray only between 3k and 6k(random numbers) i can only find modules that do one or the other

that's what a window switch does. it allows the car to know to only spray in between a certain "window" of rpm's.

a progressive controller could be a good idea, but i have a feeling for your setup it's basically unnecessary. that's usually added in to gain traction. you have a 2200, i don't think your'e going to have so much torque off the line you can't gain traction by 2nd lol

oo i only found ones that can either Deactivate it at a certain Rpm or Activate it at certain Rpm, not both at same time.....id just use it to deactivate it so i save my motor incase misshift, but im just worried traction in 1st is going to be a problem and im sure 1st gear on 50 or 75 shot will go by real fast....im kind of confused with how to launch with only Wot switch...been reading alot spraying in 1st isnt a good idea for traction reasons and that the gear goes by really fast it's too easy to over rev

mine was geared toward putting spray on an only car you have. and where other kids were ok and safe, doesnt mean you will be, and at that point if yours does let go, whats your back up plan? not worth putting a dime into that car and motor imho....

well i mean my parents have a beater truck i could use to get around, so i wouldnt be stuck not getting to work and all, but its not like i dont care at all. Opinions are opinions, I honestly love the car, has some problems im not too fond of, but it's whatever...junkyards around me have my motor for around 400-600 dollars, i can do the swap myself with friends help so it wouldnt take too long for me to swap if i had to...not that i want to get involved in that...just saying its not a complete game over

but that's why im asking all these questions..to save me from blowing something up

95LsCoupe wrote:im kind of confused with how to launch with only Wot switch...been reading alot spraying in 1st isnt a good idea for traction reasons and that the gear goes by really fast it's too easy to over rev

It's easy, don't hit WOT in first

I dont know what is funnier.

This fact

BuiltNBoosted wrote:mine was geared toward putting spray on an only car you have. and where other kids were ok and safe, doesnt mean you will be, and at that point if yours does let go, whats your back up plan? not worth putting a dime into that car and motor imho....

Or that he thinks that a 75 shot on a tired OHV is the answer to his "honda problem".

35 shot = a tired eco power level
50 shot = stock/fresh eco/Ld9 with minor bolt ons
75 shot = decent/heavy bolt on eco/LD9 power level

My supercharged eco still feels slow and will still lose to hondas.




its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa