O.K. I've read the threads about checking the fluid on a 4T40E tranny. Some people say the check bolt is on the drivers side and some say it is on the passenger side. Who is correct. I tried to check mine yesterday and pulled a plug near the front of the car near tranny cooler lines and a little came out. I thought maybe the car should be running.......So next thing I know there is about six quarts of fluid on the garage floor....I replaced the fluid with seven new quarts and checked it again at the same hole (car not running this time) and just a little came out. I need to check again today and I want to make sure I am using the CORRECT plug and also if the engine should be RUNNING or not? Thanks for any help.....

Fluid level screw

This link should work, scroll down to Figure 5. It looks to be on the passenger side below and front of output shaft.

Thanks for the link......Is this done with car idling?

Copied from the site
The fluid level should be checked when the transaxle is near room temperature or at 104°F (40°C). To acquire this, left the car idle for 3-5 minutes with all of the accessories off.

Apply the brake, then move the gear shift selector through all gear ranges, pausing three seconds in each range. Shift the lever into P.

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Place a suitable drain pan under the check plug to catch any fluid that may drip out.

Remove the oil check plug. The oil level should be at the bottom of the oil check hole. Because the transaxle operates correctly over a range of fluid levels, fluid may or may not drain out of the screw hole when the screw is removed.

If fluid drains through the screw hole, the transaxle may have been overfilled. When fluid stops draining, then fluid level is correct and the check plug may be installed. If fluid does not drain through the screw hole, the transaxle fluid may have been low. Add fluid at the vent cap location in 1 pint increments until the oil level is at the bottom of the oil check hole.

Install the oil check plug/fluid level screw and tighten to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).

Carefully lower the vehicle.

So there is the answer, the fluid/tranny should be warm, but NOT on.
Thanks Reiland for the link, I saw that once but couldn't find it again.

^^Exactly, I just checked mine.. I need to add a little more though.











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O.K. then.. feldma8a says engine is NOT running during check.....WHITECAVY are you agreeing that it is NOT running during the check or are you agreeing with the car IS idling? I really don't want to lose all the fluid again....BTW feldma8a I alrady read the post you copied from here but to me it sounds like it should be running beacuse it never says to shut the engine off (supposedly after shifting through all gears? The link at Autozone never says to shut the engine off either.....

Tom Burnett wrote:I thought maybe the car should be running.......So next thing I know there is about six quarts of fluid on the garage floor.

lol you started the car with the bolt out? To answer your question, no, it should not be done that way.

Rob





Sold 2/2/05

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There are 2 critical components to getting a correct level reading –
1) The vehicle must be level. Since you must be under the car to remove it, this means either having your car on a hoist, or having the rear axle sitting on jackstands set at the same height as the ones holding up the front.

2) The fluid must be within a specific temperature range. At least 104 degrees F, but not yet at full operating temperature. This can be achieved by letting the engine idle for 3-5 minutes. Over 8-10 minutes, and it’s gotten too hot.

In preparation for checking the level, have a drain pan under the car and a few rags handy to clean up any spills. Using your 11mm wrench, unscrew the bolt a couple turns to loosen it up. Now you can turn it by hand to remove when you do the actual check.


The following steps outline the entire fluid level check process.
• Place the car on a hoist or place both front and rear on jackstands, keeping the car level.
• Start the car and let it idle for 3-5 minutes.
• Leaving the engine running, remove the check bolt.
• If fluid exits the hole where the bolt was, but just barely dribbles out, replace the bolt and know that your fluid level is correct.
• If more than a dribble comes out, the transaxle was overfull. When it stops draining, replace the bolt. Your fluid level is now set correctly.
• If no fluid comes out, you might be low. Remove the vent hose and the cap. Using a long-necked funnel, add fluid in .5 quart increments until it starts to drain from the check bolt hole. This process must be done rather quickly, or else the fluid will exceed the temperature range and you must start the process over.
• After setting the fluid level, replace the bolt.




I see posts even on other sites that say this engine should be running. Makes sense beacuse automatics that have a dipstick are running when you check them so a check bolt would obviosly be running too. I think mine all pumped out wehn it was running because I was near the cooler lines and torque converter where there is pressure.....

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it sounds like more of a hassle to check it then it is to change it just drop the pan and add 7.4 quarts and be good to go..

Jonathan.... If I cannot get a for sure answer I will do that....good thinking

The Library has it as well I found out.
http://www.j-body.org/faq//123/

Here is a link in the Transmission forum, could search that forum.
4t40e trans service

However not fully clear if the engine is idling after shifting it through the gears. I think it says the engine is off in the Haynes manual.