That resistor is really hard to get at. Took me about 45 minutes to get the old out and put the new in (mind you it was my first time). In Canada you can get a replacement at NAPA or PartSource for about $50. Only had to replace it once on my 2002 Cavalier. Hopefully I won't have to do it again soon.
Would the resistor be burned out if only the highest speed works the bottom three do nothing.
mine did that, I replaced it been working ever since
Just became an expert at doing this- replaced it in about 20 minutes using the wisdom that Weasel et al have provided. Someone had replaced it before, as it was missing the PITA screw. My heat wouldn't work last night when it was -15 on RealFeel last night, speeds 1-3 were entirely dead, 4 was practically dead. Cleaned the blower motor out and found about 15 helicopter noseys clogging the fan up. Bought a new resistor at NAPA for $38 and it was black coated instead of green "electronic print" that you'd find on most other resistors. THANK YOU to everyone who has posted in here regarding this topic- you are lifesavers
Michaelo wrote:Would the resistor be burned out if only the highest speed works the bottom three do nothing.
Most likely. That would be the first thing I would try.
Had to pop in for a thumbs up. Awesome thread guys. 45 mins and I am back to some normal fan speeds:
1/4" drive ratchet
1/4" drive extension
1/4" drive - 7/32" sockets (short & long)
13mm socket (for the passenger seat)
Hands down....remove the seat and cut yourself a patch in the firewall insulation just under the resister to flap it down. Didn't use a universal joint either. Thanks guys!
I need some help from the experts! The blower on my 2002 Cav would stop working at random intervals over the past few months. It would come back on when I hit a bump or go over railroad tracks. Last night it stopped working and would not come back on no matter what I tried. So today I replaced the blower motor resistor (curse that PITA rear screw), since I've had to replace it three times since I bought the car in '02. But still no airflow from the blower! So would the blower motor itself be the likely problem at this point? There is warm air seeping out of the defroster vent on the dash, so I believe the heater core is okay. Any ideas?
Did this last summer. Worked like a charm. Thanks!
Just finished replacing said resister. Found that the three screws holding the fan housing are not #6 metric but #5.5, was able to buy one @ O'Reilys. 7/32" will work as well. Yes, to get at the last screw holding the resister you must cut away the insulation after pulling back the carpet. USED 7/32 box wrench to remove last screw WORKED GREAT!! Got the small box wrench in SAE set bought at Menards. Good luck, hope this helps.
I did the replacement of my resistor pack a while ago but when I was reinstalling the blower motor I messed up. I put the back two s crews in fine and then when I was putting the front screw back in the blower motor I was just mindlessly turning and turning the screw and the head of the screw popped right off and now the shaft of the screw is stuck in there and it doesn't hold the blower motor as well as it should.
2002 cavalier 4 door, automatic with 2200 SFI motor, custom carputer installed.
I replaced the resistor on both of my 1996 Cavaliers, thanks to this sticky post. But I think there's a faster, easier way to do it because you do not have to remove the blower-motor.
To replace the resistor, I first removed the sound insulator panel located under the glove compartment. It is held on by two screws just below the hinge line of the glove compartment. (The screws have a combination torx & hex head.)
Then I could easily see the round blower motor base. I removed the relatively small black plug from the blower-motor. Some of the wires from that plug led to a bigger plug which is located toward the front of the car. That bigger plug connects to the blower resistor. I removed that plug from the blower resistor. Then I had to remove the two (7/32") hex-head screws that held in the (off-white colored) blower resistor. Because of the close quarters, at first I had a very difficult time removing those two screws. But then I used a swiveling (universal joint) ratchet attachment on a socket wrench and it wasn't very hard to remove the screws.
BTW: It was GM replacement part # 52476725, which was different from the original part #524T2420.