umm pretty simple... what are the best ways to get most gains at low rpms without nos and turbo,.....??
thnx guys
Matt
Quote:
What day is it again?.... I don't sleep enough.....
small diameter, long intake manifold runners. a stroker kit, long duration cam lobes, small diameter short exhaust header runners, small diameter exhaust pipe.
just remember that you won't have much of a powerband in the upper RPM range--everything is a comprimise. P.S. this is not backpressure.
why would smaller exahst pipe give you more tq/hp dosent make sence
Matt
Quote:
What day is it again?.... I don't sleep enough.....
actually, you would want a shorter duration cam for more low end power.
you would use a smaller diameter exhaust pipe because its smaller area would keep the exhaust velocity high. once you get into mid and high rpms though, that smaller pipe would cause more of a restriction and sap hp, but at the low rpms, you could make more torque.
everything is basically smaller cause you are trying to keep velocity high at your low revs, not at redline.
.
<a href="http://www.j-body.org/members/speedvisioncavalier"><img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/speedvisioncavalier/new%20sig.jpg"> </a><img src="http://www.precizion.org/animatedz.gif">
"What are we going to do tonight?"
"The same thing we do every night, try to make the SVC go faster!"
ok... how about with just bolt ons..??
btw if you gain the hp/tq from the smaler dim exahst then you would loose the top end right??
Matt
Quote:
What day is it again?.... I don't sleep enough.....
I would say best way would be to take weight off the crank to get it into the power band faster... so that means lightened crank pulley and flywheel.
<br><img src="http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/8/web/728000-728999/728095_1.jpg">
Yes officer I knew the speed limit was 50
that would increase power though just let it get to the higher rpms faster where the power already is..
Matt
Quote:
What day is it again?.... I don't sleep enough.....
Wouldn't a WAI, and 4-2-1 header be good for low rpm hp/tq power?
As well as a gasket matching, p&p, mounts or torque dampener, pullies, etc.
Fact 1:
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.
yea LMR but i have a CAI and 4-1 already i dont wanna jst take those off im talking about leaving those and adding other bolt ons to get more low end...?
Matt
Quote:
What day is it again?.... I don't sleep enough.....
STROKER KIT
displacement=torque
I ain't callin u a gold digga,but you ain't messin wit a broke cracka
where can i get a stroker kit for the 2200 98'???
Matt
Quote:
What day is it again?.... I don't sleep enough.....
increase displacment and gain low end hp/tq......
Matt
Quote:
What day is it again?.... I don't sleep enough.....
eCOfIRE .cOM wrote:STROKER KIT
displacement=torque
i like to think more stroke=trq
cause u can have a big bore with a short stroke make alot of hp and lower trq.
bolts ons, solid motor mounts would give u more trq.
-Borsty
How about hyper gorunding, and upgraded ignition? I dont know.
Fact 1:
“Facts are meaningless. You could use facts to prove anything that’s even remotely
true.
You're done with bolt ons. Actual engine work is the only other option. I put my 96 2.2 .040 over bore with an 8:1 compression (for turbo) and p/p and I have alot more bottom torque. I can grab third with all this extra torque. No top end hardly at all, but lots of bottom end power and torque. If I was building an all motor car, I would over bore, p/p, 10:1 compression (severe bottom end torque but more top end), urathane mounts (all of them), s-afc2 and a hotter ignition. The bolt ons will take you only so far. Torque only comes from displacement like everyone has mentioned. You can transfer more of your existing torque by replacing all your rubber mounts with the urethane mounts. Everyone has the motor mounts and aplusperformance.com has the tranny mounts for a real good price. I have all of these and my motor hardly moves. I can sit there and light-up in first and not go any where while smoking the tires a bit before it starts to catch and actually roll to a shifting speed. (Douglas tires. not capable with my hankooks). This is what I know from my research and actual building.
Your best bet is like mentioned above, a cam with a lower duration number.
Don't forget even if you want low end power, replacing the cam also requires a new timing chain, and valve springs to match that cam.
Don't think you'll see a cam for $75, and that's it.
You need gaskets to put everything back together, a couple of special tools (HB puller, VS compressor, etc......),the chain set or belt only, and the springs.... and alot of patience. And getting a new chip will probably be required to maximize the cam's performance, I don't know with newer cars, but most cars don't simply adjust to the cam.
I think for the amount of power and work you would get out of a cam, it's not worth it. It's not like the stock cam for your car is horrible or anything, but it's not perfect either.
hey adam, wanna get slapped about that little throttle body spacer coment? j/k, but put on ur flaming suit
what if someone were to put a 1.8in pipe on their cat-back instead of going larger with a 2.25 or 2.5.....would you get better low end power? or are you just gonna kill performance in general
the exhaust and intake lengths and cross-sections, as well as the camshaft, are tuning issues that can be specifically tuned for certain rpm bands. promption of velocity in the airflow is critical in an engine, be it high or low rpm. but at low rpm, you have to artificially create it.
larger stroke optimizes the angles of the connecting rod to the crank, adding torque. imagine the triangle created with the centerline of the bore, the connecting rod, and the crank during the downstroke, with the crank throw at the zero or 180deg position (horizontal). if the crank is longer and the conn rod is shorter, better mechanical advantage is given to the crank from the conn rod.
i would say that your 2.2 is already placed nicely for low-end. just making sure that the head can efficiently swallow that air is probably a good place to start. try a cam with about the same lobe separation and duration angles, but more lift. and try a p&p, that head is a cast piece of crap, virtually no consideration toward performance.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
my new favorite quote, up from franklin roosevelt's mistake/modification quote:
"Dan thanks for the entertainment... but I think someone is going to own you.... "
--CarbonFire (i think he's getting a little ticked over this one............)
'03 eco coupe
'02 z24 wheels
buzzwerdz are conjecture, mathematical certainty defines mechanical results.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
im gonna do the p&p anyways but to add stroke would i just need connecting rods? where could i get a stroker kit for the 2200..?? what about compression?
Matt
Quote:
What day is it again?.... I don't sleep enough.....
