I'm trying to find someone who carries Melling part#3-370SA. The performance shop over here said they stopped carrying Melling timing sets, and Checker says it's special order, and then not availible. Partsamerica.com lists it, but their retarded site won't let me order anything (If anyone can get this to work, I'll paypal you the $60).
Anyway, I came across
these , which are listed for a 96 cav, but say for all 1300cc-1600cc engines...VW?
also
these for anyone that wants new rods for a rebuild
They have other weird stuff listed under the engine too, like LT1 shaft-mounted rockers and SBC valley pans
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Yea, it's for a Vw 1300-1600cc
My Car
Yeah the rods have the Bugpack Logo and the timing gear set looks just like the one for the VW engine I have . That seems like a good site to buy from when they don't even know what they are selling .
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You can try Northern Auto Parts. They don't list that # on the web page, but thye are a huge warehouse and can probably get it. www.naparts.com
What's that chain fit? Where did you find the number? I can't seem to confirm the listing.
I get all the way to "finish order" on partsamerica.com. Where are you having trouble?
-->Slow
slowolej wrote:You can try Northern Auto Parts. They don't list that # on the web page, but thye are a huge warehouse and can probably get it. www.naparts.com
What's that chain fit? Where did you find the number? I can't seem to confirm the listing.
I get all the way to "finish order" on partsamerica.com. Where are you having trouble?
-->Slow
It's for the LN2, I got the # from Adler, but I believe Chris K posted it in a forum way back when, but the post was deleted with the new formatting.
At first I had to sign in 3 or 4 times before it would let me shop (I wasn't getting a sign-in error or anything, just kept reloading the page and not signing me in). Then I would have to 'add item to cart' a few times before it would actually put it in there. And when it finally put it in there, it would automatically log me out. All messed up.
It was just doing the same thing again today, then I decided to clear my cookies for whatever reason, and it continued to do it for a little while, then...HOORAY, it finally let me through. All done now.
Dam-it Muffins (Event) wrote:check local shops
Believe me, I tried. Nobody seems to carry any Melling parts except oil pumps (which I already have
)
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Glad to hear the problem's solved. Old cookies are no fun at all.
No one around here carries that brand timing set, either. We have Advance Auto, another from the partsamerica.com group. They sell "SA Gear" rather than Melling.
-->Slow
Well, got an email from partsamerica.com...looks like they didn't have it after all...why list a part on your website that yoiu don't have?
Hopefully I'll find one somewhere else...
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OHV notec wrote:slowolej wrote:You can try Northern Auto Parts. They don't list that # on the web page, but thye are a huge warehouse and can probably get it. www.naparts.com
What's that chain fit? Where did you find the number? I can't seem to confirm the listing.
I get all the way to "finish order" on partsamerica.com. Where are you having trouble?
-->Slow
Dam-it Muffins (Event) wrote:check local shops
Believe me, I tried. Nobody seems to carry any Melling parts except oil pumps (which I already have )
you can try the shop i go to....
http://ahmperformance.com/pages/1/index.htm
tell chris art sent ya hell check all his resources.
Quote:
why list a part on your website that yoiu don't have?
That website's a bastard child. I think the web order division is separate from the parts stores. Employees of Advance Auto can't get an employee discount ordering parts through the partsamerica.com site. And the site lists certain parts as "in stock" at my local store all the time, even if I just bought the last one.
-->Slow
You don't want a melling tensioner or chain anyways. My melling chain is stretched and the tensioner was worn out after only like 5,000 miles. GM OEM tensioners are the best (I have tried several types).
I wonder if there's a way to install the 1.8L OHV Chain in the 2.2 without block modifications. The stock 1.8 chain is double roller.
-->Slow
damn parts store around here sold me the wrong melling timing set.
3-370SA
is just
3-370S
I believe the larger gear is the wrong one.
damn itt
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Thanks Event. Only, now it looks like that might not be the way to go..
Zach wrote:You don't want a melling tensioner or chain anyways. My melling chain is stretched and the tensioner was worn out after only like 5,000 miles. GM OEM tensioners are the best (I have tried several types).
Maybe that's why nobody is stocking them any more...but that really blows, as there have been so many stories of premature wear on the GM tensioners...
slowolej wrote:I wonder if there's a way to install the 1.8L OHV Chain in the 2.2 without block modifications. The stock 1.8 chain is double roller.
Hmmm, that could be interesting. Double-rollers don't use tensioners, correct?
stevefire wrote:damn parts store around here sold me the wrong melling timing set.
3-370SA is just 3-370S
I believe the larger gear is the wrong one.
So 3-370S is the correct number?
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The double roller 1.8 chain uses a tensioner. The tensioner needs to be attached to the block, which is where the block work comes into play. But it may be possible to come up with an alternate mounting procedure.
The 1.8L chain is the one GM recommended for racing. The complete instructions are in the 2.0L buildup on PJ's server. There's a link in the "ls1 rockers" thread in the performance forum.
-->Slow
We've been holding off on announcing something here on JBO, but after reading this thread AND having gone through similar hassles getting parts (gaskets, bearings, etc.) for a 2.4L DOHC we're rebuilding, this might be a good time to "pre-announced" that we (JTuners) will soon begin carrying premium engine rebuild parts for 2.2L/2200 OHV, 2.3L and 2.4L DOHC and Ecotec. This includes everything from full gasket sets, bearings, (stock) pistons/rods/cams/lifters, TIMING SETS, etc. etc.
Obviously there are MANY individual part numbers given the range of different engines, years, etc. and we haven't even begun to discuss how the heck we'd get all of these listed on our web site to make it easy for you to find & buy on-line, nor have we calculated pricing, but just a quick check on the equivalent of a Melling part #3-370SA shows it as in-stock (at factory) and that we could sell it for something less than $60.
Our pricing should be competitive with or better than retail auto parts outlets. Again because there are so many items, we won't keep them in inventory here, but can have them drop shipped to you within a few days. But at least you'd get service from someone dedicated exclusively to j-bodies (and maybe a little more knowledgeable than some retail parts store counter people) AND you'd be able to purchase on-line 24/7 (even in your underwear - try THAT at Advanced Auto and see what happens!).
We JUST got this deal done this week and need some time (a few weeks??) to get our act together before we're ready to serve you properly, but I just thought I'd let you know what's coming.
I didn't mean to thread-jack, but this is EXACTLY why we pursued this! We're here to help and think this is just one more way we can serve the j-body crowd - the ONLY market we're in!
OHV NOTEC - If you can't find what you need, shoot me an email and we will figure out how to get it for you. It may take a little longer than it would once we're in full swing with this, but we CAN get exactly what you need!
Thanks,
Leo
Formerly Cavalier Connection
Leo: It's good to see that the Jbody community might hve a worthwhile and respectable company supporting them, and one that produces quality parts at that.
I have a question for you now...would you happen to know the weight savings provided by your pulley set (now that I see it's up on your site)? I know it's mainly meant for power savings through underdriving the water pump, but there has to be some rotational weight savings as well with the billet aluminum composite right?
Now let's see those LN2 ARP main studs
slowolej wrote:The double roller 1.8 chain uses a tensioner. The tensioner needs to be attached to the block, which is where the block work comes into play. But it may be possible to come up with an alternate mounting procedure.
The 1.8L chain is the one GM recommended for racing. The complete instructions are in the 2.0L buildup on PJ's server. There's a link in the "ls1 rockers" thread in the performance forum.
-->Slow
I read the thread and downloaded the build manual. It doesn't look like the machining work would be very difficult, assuming the main caps are the same on the 2.2L as the 2.0L. Unfortunately, my block won't be to the machinist until December for all the other work, so I won't be able to have anything done and tested for a while.
Do you know if HotRodV6 got that set from NAPA? I'm going to head by Advance on my way home to check out their offerings.
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Sorry, I don't know if the NAPA parts ever appeared. I looked at what Advance sells... it's a single roller chain rather than double. I feel that it's better than the production chain for the 83+ engine, but it would be tough to say it's as good as the double roller it replaces.
I looked up the timing chain for the 1982 1.8 OHV on partsamerica.com when you first posted about problems, and it listed a new number for a timing set, for about $90. I don't know what's in that box, but for that price I wonder if it's the chain, gears, and tensioner? I'll have to ask a friend at Advanced to get more info.
Leo, it's good to see someone offering to get "regular" parts for the more common 2.2 / 2200 engine. I'm sure you know that the research and time which can be invested in finding the right parts (like a better than stock timing chain) can be overwhelming. Most of the time a hard to locate part number ends up discontinued or superceded to one which is less desirable. In a case like this, it would be nice to know a company specializing in J body performance parts understands that "equivalent parts" means more than "they both fit the same engine according to the book." I'm sure this is something you're well aware of, especially with so many no name parts on the market.
-->Slow
Yesterday I put down $72.xx for the A E Clevite pieces from Advance/Checker/Kragen/Schucks or whatever. The complete set w/ tensioner ($90) was unavailible, but the 3 piece set and a seperate tensioner was 20 bucks cheaper
The arrival date is listed as today. So when it gets here, I'll know for sure if it's single or double. If it's single I'm getting my money back and ordering the one from NAPA, as the picture even shows it as a double. The problem with the NAPA set, of course, is it lacks a tensioner, so something would have to be done about that.
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Yep... I see the damper but no tensioner.
But I did find cam specs for different year cars. Too kewl for a numbers guy like me.
-->Slow
sorry, just to clarify my post:
I believe that 3-370SA is the correct PN from melling
and that 3-370S is the one that was sold to me. (that being the wrong one!)
sorry about the confusion
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OHV notec wrote:Yesterday I put down $72.xx for the A E Clevite pieces from Advance/Checker/Kragen/Schucks or whatever. The complete set w/ tensioner ($90) was unavailible, but the 3 piece set and a seperate tensioner was 20 bucks cheaper
The arrival date is listed as today. So when it gets here, I'll know for sure if it's single or double. If it's single I'm getting my money back and ordering the one from NAPA, as the picture even shows it as a double. The problem with the NAPA set, of course, is it lacks a tensioner, so something would have to be done about that.
Let us know how that goes. I'm tired of having to replace the chain/tensioner every year.
Because of my curse (the weekend before every Spring semester I lose a car, this time was due to a blown head gasket on my Audi) and classes starting up, I haven't had much time for the Cav. But, this morning I managed to make it over to Checker Auto to see if my parts had come in. Sure enough, they were sitting on a shelf in the back (the guy apologized for nobody having called me like they're supposed to...it's been a month...but their customer service has always been horrendous). Looked in the boxes, double-rollers, score.
Oddly enough, the gears and chain that were listed as Clevite pieces came in a Melling box...go figure. Here they are:
More pics:
The crank gear was put on backwards in the picture (hence the spokes not matching up), but the purpose of the picture was to point out the difference in sizes:
new cam OD: 4.553"
old cam OD: 4.332"
new crank OD: 2.169"
old crank OD: 1.995"
new cam ID: 0.624"
old cam ID: 0.879"
I don't think the difference in OD will cause any trouble, assuming the cam sprocket is phased correctly with our cams.
The chain seems to be the same length, apparently the same number of links of the same length.
The ID of the cam gear will need to be opened up quite a bit, but I believe that was mentioned in the GM build guide.
The crank gear on the other hand slid right on to the crank snout, which kind of frightens me...isn't it supposed to be press-fit?
The tensioner looks like it will work with the addition of the new tapped hole mentioned in the build guide (I'll have to take another pic now that the crank is mounted back up and you can see how the tensioner will bolt on). However, the hole where the tensioner mounts to the main cap will need to be opened up, because the newer bolt isn't even close to fitting through.
FINAL PROBLEM (that I can see at least) is that I don't have the other half of the tensioner. The build guide shows a 'damper assembly' which looks like it bolts up to our factory tensioner mounts. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get this aftermarket, I'll make some calls tomorrow.
Overall, I don't see any reason why this can't be made to work fairly easily. It all seems like minor machining, of which I don't see a reason not to incorporate into any rebuild, considering all the reported factory tensioner failures.
My engine won't be into the machinist until winter break, so I won't know for sure until then.
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Awesome work!
The crank gear should be held by the press fit and bolt retaining the front hub. If there's a concern, some bearing and sleeve retainer loc-tite applied to the crank gear would probably keep it in place permanently.
I am also wondering about the damper. Maybe a modified stock tensioner will work for this job?
Thanks again for the followup. By the time I get to building another engine, there will be no more 1.8L timing chains left in the country.
-->Slow
slowolej wrote:Awesome work!
The crank gear should be held by the press fit and bolt retaining the front hub. If there's a concern, some bearing and sleeve retainer loc-tite applied to the crank gear would probably keep it in place permanently.
I am also wondering about the damper. Maybe a modified stock tensioner will work for this job?
I'm not sure if I'd want it on there permanently...but it's a thought. Is it possible the heat cycling of the engine would expand it enough to hold it on?
I also thought about using the stock tensioner, but after it's run-in with a cut-off wheel and grinder, it looks to be a little too short. I think this is where the larger diameter of the gears has a negative impact. This is just from eyeballing it though, as I can't mount the cam gear until it's bored out. Just from what I see, it doesn't look like the 'damper' would make contact, but it's close.
However, if it's only job is to make sure the chain doesn't flail around excessively (seeing as there's already a tensioner), it may work out okay.
slowolej wrote:By the time I get to building another engine, there will be no more 1.8L timing chains left in the country.
-->Slow
Tell me about it. I was considering buying a few more sets for future use
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