I am looking at purchasing a SS OBX header for my 2200....I was wondering if this is a involved project. I have the knowledge to complete this as long as I have complete instructions...Can anyone shed light on this for me please
it's not really difficult man. make sure the engine bay is completely cooled down when you begin the project. so you will just have to leave your car in the garage for an afternoon. you MAY have to remove the starter to get the header out / fit the new one in. Refer to a Hayne's / Chilton's manual for instructions on removing your starter if that step is necessary. First unbolt your factory manifold from the factory B pipe underneath the car. There will be 2 compression springs, you do not need them. Unbolt the b pipe from the catalytic converter. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT, the bolts will break off inside your cat. That will completely drop the factory B pipe down. Set it aside, throw it away, hang it on your wall, whatever. Unbolt the factory exhaust manifold from the head. DO NOT REUSE your stock exhaust manifold gasket OR the one OBX will send you. Just make a trip the day before up to your parts store and purchase a brand new Felpro gasket (should be around $11). Replace the gasket. Position new header onto the head (like said above, you MAY have to remove the starter to get it to fit). The best way to get it is from the bottom. Now once the header is secure, bolt up the collector to the B pipe. Make sure the bolts ARE SECURE. Bolt the B pipe back to the catalytic converter flange. After you start the car, it may smoke a little bit, that will just be the shiny coat smoking away a tad. The header will turn goldish after it gets good and hot the first day or two of having it on the car. And then it will get those pretty discolorations and purpleish spots that make stainless steel headers so cool. Keep an open ear for exhaust leaks, because exhaust bolts are prone to working themselves loose, especially after a fresh install. Hope that helps you out and good luck with your project.
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nice write up
i know when did mine i had to take a small hose going to the radiator off and let it drain cause we i couldnt get the header mounted in all the way ....stupid lil things in the way
but other then that i would follow wat he said
if the lower radiator hose for some reason gets in the way, and just pushing it aside won't help than i guess you could remove it. that's too much work for me though. i'm sure i would find away to go without having to drain the damn radiator.
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thanks a bunch guys...exactly the help that I needed
Luis Lozoya wrote:nice write up
i know when did mine i had to take a small hose going to the radiator off and let it drain cause we i couldnt get the header mounted in all the way ....stupid lil things in the way
but other then that i would follow wat he said
Actually from what it sound like, you are talking about the heater cross-over tube. If this is the case, just undo the one bolt that holds the oil fill/dip stick tube in place and pull it out. The rubber gasket at the bottom of the tube, is above the oil level in the pan, so no oil will leak out. Just dont pinch the gasket taking it out or putting it in. Then remove the nut that holds the heater cross-over tube and push it out of the way. This way you won't have to drain the cooling system to get the header in place.
Also, when putting in the header, i would disconnect the battery when putting the header in or removing the old one because if the header hits both the positive and negative connections on the starter, it will spark and could cause some problems (blow a fuse, etc) so just disconnect the negative battery terminal on the battery for the job, and you should be good.
that doesnt sound like a very complicated job. now im not so sure this is true or if my stepdad was trying to make me not want to get a new header but he said that u need to tune the car after u install the header, and its not just a bolt on. i thought it was just a bolt on. not to steal the thread but i figured jake might be interested anyways.
The PCM will correct for any changes. This doesn't mean the PCM will tune for best performance, just adjust the A/F ratio for what it was mapped to do.
the PCM does compensate for changes, which is why i reset the PCM before installing the header. Before beginning the project, unplug the battery.
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but what about with the gm charger? still unplug the battery?
2000 Camaro V6.
| SLP Loudmouth | CAI Intake | HID's |
Well, with the charger, usually you have a new reflash on it anyways, and should have unplugged the battery before removing the ECU. but either way, the ecu has been without power, so its already forgot anything. And will start from scratch when the car is started for the first time.
VTLoki wrote:Well, with the charger, usually you have a new reflash on it anyways, and should have unplugged the battery before removing the ECU. but either way, the ecu has been without power, so its already forgot anything. And will start from scratch when the car is started for the first time.
the reflash from GM changes the ECU flash memory, so when the PCM loses power, it reverts back to the REFLASH settings, not stock. They do this because people have to unplug their batteries for more reasons than just resetting the PCM.
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