is there something on the end of the downpipe that gets rid of the flex pipe? if so how does it work?
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Dillon Zellmer wrote:is there something on the end of the downpipe that gets rid of the flex pipe? if so how does it work?
If your talking about the 4-1 design then the header attaches to the down pipe by a ball and socket method with the use of springs and spring bolts. The end of the down pipe that attaches to the cat needs to be welded on.
Hope it helped out.
the stock flex pipe is on the down pipe at the manifold
on the pacesetter header there is a ball and socket style flex joint that is part of the header , and the down pipe
you have to cut and clamp or weld(recomended)
you can kinda see the ball end in that pic of the eco tec header
<img src="http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/478000-478999/478869_10_full.jpg">
Whats the chances of this ball and socket breaking without engine mounts.?
Has it accually happen to anyone or is it just a story?
i wouldn't worry to much bout the ball and socket breaking ... but if u run the header without mounts definitly get a flex pipe welded in ... i have just the upper mount insert with the pacesetter header and a flex pipe welded in ... works just fine for me .. i had to take the bottom mount out cause the vibrations were to much for me for some reason .
anyone else have any input?
I have a lower motor mount with my 4-1 header and it's perfectly fine.
I have the lower mount and no problems.With my pacesetter 4 to 1.
Thats Him Officer The WICKED One.
so i should have the flex pipe put back in? also is the stock exhaust 2 1/4? i have a muffler put on and its got 2 1/1 goin in to it and it looks like it matches up perfectly with the stock exhaust size.
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You shouldnt have to have a flex pipe for the 2.4 should you? There isnt one stock in my Sunfire atleast.. Ive got the upper mount, but no header yet, just the stock ex. manifold, and it doesnt move much at all, just a thought.
so without mounts and flex pipe theres a chance that it will break?
Chris wrote:so without mounts and flex pipe theres a chance that it will break?
yup. you're better off getting mounts anyway. it should be one of the first things you do in all honesty.
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i have a 2200 not a 2.4 how long until stuff will start to break will it be fine for about a month or so?
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Dillon Zellmer wrote:i have a 2200 not a 2.4 how long until stuff will start to break will it be fine for about a month or so?
i know you are new to this, but you gotta remember....
theres no set time limit on how long it will take to wear out...struts, headers, or otherwise...
it could be instantly or it could be years....
Dam-it Muffins (Event) wrote:Dillon Zellmer wrote:i have a 2200 not a 2.4 how long until stuff will start to break will it be fine for about a month or so?
i know you are new to this, but you gotta remember....
theres no set time limit on how long it will take to wear out...struts, headers, or otherwise...
it could be instantly or it could be years....
yup. it really depends on your driving habits and the weather conditions in your area.
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the mounts are easy to change arent they? just support the motor n then you can take the old mount out n put the new one in?
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very easy. teamforwardmotion.com
lower one? 5 minutes start to finish with air tools. top one? 10 minutes job with dish soap.
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so flex tubing and mounts then... or are u fine with just the mounts?
Also upper and lower or can u just do one... i heard the lower is really bad for rattles
Sasuke wrote:Ender, like the books? 
I've read them all.
Yep, thats where the name came from..
Quote:
so flex tubing and mounts then... or are u fine with just the mounts?
Also upper and lower or can u just do one... i heard the lower is really bad for rattles
To be honest man, the vibrations the lower motor mount creates can irritate some, and not others. It took me a day to get used to it, and after that everything was fine. I intend to purchase a upper motor mount to maximize power transfer efficiency tho. From what I see, the upper motor mount shouldn't be hard at all with just some dish soap and a jack to keep the engine up while I'm replacing the mount. Give it a try, man! You'll never learn until you put forth effort to do things yourself.
Peace
DON'T BE SKEERD!
we did have a discussion on this a while back, about which mount causes the worse vibrations. it's not really one or the other. the vibes get the strongest when both mounts are put on, because with one or the other you still have one "weak" mouting point. it is even worse at that point, if you have an automatic because of the torque at idle. when i sit at a stoplight, i can literally watch my entire dash vibrating and it has even been known to make a CD skip. but solid mounts are definitely one of the first things i would recommend to anyone who wants to further modify a j-body.
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