Well my goal is to get at least 200+ whp. Right now I have a stock engine with a header, cold air intake, cat back, and a 50 shot of nitrous. In a week or two I'm pulling an engine out of another cavalier that has a 2200 engine in it. What would be the top part for me to replace in the engine? I know I'm puttin new forged pistons and rings, port and polish, and most new rods. I know the first question "How big is ur wallet?", well money isn't really an issue
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if money isnt a issue. buy a faster car and start there.
"IF YOU PERSIST IN DOING WHAT YOU HAVE ALWAYS DONE .....
EXPECT RESULTS NO DIFFERENT FROM WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY ACHIEVED"
I thought about it but I've put way to much time and money into the electronics of the car to get rid of it
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If you want at least 200whp and plan on increasing the number later on - go turbo. Simply put, its the best way to gain high numbers (way better than an s/c). Keep in mind there will be LOTS of tuning involved with high numbers, even with 200whp. Since you're already upgrading internals, it would be wise to determine whether you'd prefer a kit or piece together a system yourself. You'll also want to think about fuel and timing mods.
Blown.
Quote:
If you want at least 200whp and plan on increasing the number later on - go turbo. Simply put, its the best way to gain high numbers (way better than an s/c). Keep in mind there will be LOTS of tuning involved with high numbers, even with 200whp. Since you're already upgrading internals, it would be wise to determine whether you'd prefer a kit or piece together a system yourself. You'll also want to think about fuel and timing mods.
X2
1997 Sunfire
WAI
pacesetter header
Underdrive pulley = STILL SLOW.
50 shot of NX
Filip (The Polish Kid) wrote:If you want at least 200whp and plan on increasing the number later on - go turbo. Simply put, its the best way to gain high numbers (way better than an s/c). Keep in mind there will be LOTS of tuning involved with high numbers, even with 200whp. Since you're already upgrading internals, it would be wise to determine whether you'd prefer a kit or piece together a system yourself. You'll also want to think about fuel and timing mods.
Timing might not be an issue if he stays at 9:1 compresion. Usually people retard timing so they are less likely to detonate but it also depends on how much PSI he's aiming for. Fuel runs into the same department as far as detonation, the higher octane, the less likely you are to detonate (of course this varies from car to car and there are things that play into effect of what octane you should use).
Suggestions:
- Stay at 9:1 compression for the 2200 if you're turboing
- Invest in either a good fuel management system (E-Manage, Megasquirt etc) or an actual FMU (Cartech is popular around here)
- Check out www.j-tuners.com for the new Cometic Multi-Layer Steel Head Gasket. This inexpensive part will save you lots of future headaches when it comes to forced induction and high horsepower.
- Jbody Performance is your friend when it comes to 2200 valvetrain parts (www.jbodyperformance.com)
- Turbo Matching is key if you're building your own turbo kit and picking out the parts yourself. Ask around to people who have 2200s that are turbo'd as well and see what they are running with. Also, check out compressor maps for more info on the actual turbo you're considering going with.
- Don't cheap anything out...if you're going to do it, do it right.
- Ask lots of questions and do lots of research before you buy anything. Don't rush buying parts.
- Make sure you understand what each and every part does, what it's purpose is and why you should buy this part over another part.
- Buy cheap priced quality parts, not cheap parts.
That's about it. If you have anymore questions, just ask.
Good Luck.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
NJHK (Sexual Chocolate) wrote:Filip (The Polish Kid) wrote:If you want at least 200whp and plan on increasing the number later on - go turbo. Simply put, its the best way to gain high numbers (way better than an s/c). Keep in mind there will be LOTS of tuning involved with high numbers, even with 200whp. Since you're already upgrading internals, it would be wise to determine whether you'd prefer a kit or piece together a system yourself. You'll also want to think about fuel and timing mods.
Timing might not be an issue if he stays at 9:1 compresion. Usually people retard timing so they are less likely to detonate but it also depends on how much PSI he's aiming for. Fuel runs into the same department as far as detonation, the higher octane, the less likely you are to detonate (of course this varies from car to car and there are things that play into effect of what octane you should use).
Suggestions:
- Stay at 9:1 compression for the 2200 if you're turboing
- Invest in either a good fuel management system (E-Manage, Megasquirt etc) or an actual FMU (Cartech is popular around here)
- Check out www.j-tuners.com for the new Cometic Multi-Layer Steel Head Gasket. This inexpensive part will save you lots of future headaches when it comes to forced induction and high horsepower.
- Jbody Performance is your friend when it comes to 2200 valvetrain parts (www.jbodyperformance.com)
- Turbo Matching is key if you're building your own turbo kit and picking out the parts yourself. Ask around to people who have 2200s that are turbo'd as well and see what they are running with. Also, check out compressor maps for more info on the actual turbo you're considering going with.
- Don't cheap anything out...if you're going to do it, do it right.
- Ask lots of questions and do lots of research before you buy anything. Don't rush buying parts.
- Make sure you understand what each and every part does, what it's purpose is and why you should buy this part over another part.
- Buy cheap priced quality parts, not cheap parts.
That's about it. If you have anymore questions, just ask.
Good Luck.
^^ in accordance with the prophecy. lol. he makes all good points.
I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.
There are a few routes to go to increase hp. The common route for an NA application is to increase the rpm at which the engine makes peak torque. By simple math, moving the torque peak higher makes greater horsepower. Here are the pros and cons for you to make your own decision.
1) As engine speed increases, the rods are subject to greater tension loads (stretching) during the intake stroke. More rods fail under tension than compression.
2) Engine balance becomes more critical. The forces created by an unbalanced rotating assembly increase exponentially.
3) Airflow becomes more critical. Moving more air quickly requires larger flow paths, leading to bigger ports, valves, manifolds, throttle body, etcetera.
4) Low rpm torque usually drops and takes off the line acceleration with it. The only real cure is changing the gears or the tire diameter, bringing the operating rpm up to match the power peaks.
5) Camshaft profiles move toward large duration, high overlap styles. These cams don't work with emissions equipment.
Street driven turbo cars have increased torque almost everywhere in the powerband. A well designed turbo car can be emissions friendly and can make substantial horsepower and torque. And they're good on gas (if you can remember to stay off the boost ).
I also vote for turbo.
-->Slow
Once again, I have been eclipsed by the great Adam, and rightly so! I humble myself before thee.
Great points, Adam. You hit practically everything, well done!
Blown.
Filip (The Polish Kid) wrote:Once again, I have been eclipsed by the great Adam, and rightly so! I humble myself before thee.
Great points, Adam. You hit practically everything, well done!
Thank You my humble peasant...bow to me!
j/k
You guys are so lucky I love the
and I'm bored at work lol
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Thank you, I'll keep these ideas in mind
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or you can take a leaf blower and spray nitrous near it.
"
boobs now with Riboflabin"
d356bud wrote:Thank you, I'll keep these ideas in mind
You're welcome
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