On the 2.2 OHV in stock form, there is no valve adjustment needed, or at least this is what GM says. The hydraulic lifters adjust valve lash automatically. All you need to do is torque your top nuts on your rocker arms down to 22 ft/lbs.

However, when using the 1.6 roller rockers on either engine with adjustable rocker studs (that are needed when doing the roller rockers on the 2.2 or 2200). Below is a chart that I decided to put together to avoid confusion when adjusting valve lash. You will spin the motor over a total of 4 revolutions. Make sure it is at TDC when you start.

IMAGE REMOVED

I hope this makes sense to everyone. The alternate method column is shown after 2 revolutions because you have already completed one cycle.

And personally I think this should be stickied.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, July 29, 2006 6:02 PM

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Sorry man, you're not going to get a sticky just for this However, anyone making an OHV build-up guide (or something similar) should put this into it.
You may want to specify exactly what 1/2 turn means (with respect to what?) though.





fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

1/2 turn means basically with your socket on the top nut of the rocker arm stud, a half turn is about what it works out to be before it's tight. i forgot to mention, this is typically a 2 person job. one person rotates the motor by hand with a socket on the crank pulley




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Haha, I have to give a 'duh' to the turning the nut 1/2 turn *lol
I meant you need to specify '1/2 turn after the rocker makes contact with both the pushrod and the valve stem'. I believe this should work out to about the same as how I was told to do it way back when. They should be tightened as much as possible while still being able to rotate the pushrod in the rocker bowl with your forefingers.



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

OHV notec wrote:Haha, I have to give a 'duh' to the turning the nut 1/2 turn *lol
I meant you need to specify '1/2 turn after the rocker makes contact with both the pushrod and the valve stem'.

Yup you got it. I figured that'd be pretty self explanitory but... then again, yea nevermind.




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you guys crack me up

Don't the 2200s have 1.6 full roller rockers from the factory? I thought I read that somewhere on here.


"Silly cluth, glazing is for donuts!"

they have roller rockers but not a roller end. and the stock lift is said to be 1:6 but more something like 1:54 i think

Phlatcav wrote:they have roller rockers but not a roller end. and the stock lift is said to be 1:6 but more something like 1:54 i think

that's correct. i haven't looked at the factory 2200 rocker arms, but I also believe the rocker studs are similar to the 95-97 OHV and are not adjustable




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Yup, the 2200 has a cast steel roller fulcrum, the tip still rubs on the valve stem. Alot better than the old pivot ball fulcrum, but not as good as the full roller rockers that Crane makes. The Comp Magnum rockers are an improvement over the stockers, because they are ratio accurate (the stocker are far from it) and have almost no flex under load, but their downfall is they use the pivot ball fulcrum.

I see. I was wondering, I have the 1.6 conversion on my LN2 turbo motor, and since it's blown up, I'm going to pull some of the useable parts and put them on my other Cavalier. So the question I have now, is what would the advantage of going full roller instead of the pivot ball type I have now? Is there any more power from upgrading even further? I'm going to go all motor this time around, so what do you think? I don't mean to jack the thread but since we're pretty much on the same topic...


"Silly cluth, glazing is for donuts!"

friction is the answer, you get much much les friction with the full roller sets.

Most of the gains (on the 2200) come from the ratio accuracy, when using the Comp rockers. On the 2.2s, most of the gains come from the ratio accuracy and the elimination of flex (stamped rockers flex allot). The roller fulcrums on the Crane rockers, reduce the frictional losses and run much cooler that the pivot balls. The roller tip helps very little, the fulcrum is the most important part. Read Did You Know at the bottom of this newsletter.

ooo my first sticky I'm so happy. Phlatcav, do you have the ARP numbers for the 2200 rocker studs to add to this?




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I also should add, that the 1/2 turn for adjustment is after you reach ZERO LASH. Which is basically when the roller makes contact with the valve stem and the pushrod




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Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:ooo my first sticky I'm so happy. Phlatcav, do you have the ARP numbers for the 2200 rocker studs to add to this?

Sadly no but i do know the the top and base thread so finding a set at summitracing.com or jegs.com is easy.

98 2200 = 10mm base with 3/8 top
99+ 2200 = 8mm base with 3/8 top

Here are the ARP part numbers I found.

8mm base with 3/8 top 99+2200
ARP-134-7201 = Rocker Arm Studs, High Performance, 3/ 8-24 in. Thread, 1.75 in. Effective Stud Length, Chevy, Vortec, Kit

10mm base with 3/8 top 98 2200
ARP-100-7201 = Rocker Arm Studs, High Performance, 3/ 8-24 in. Thread, 1.595 in. Effective Stud Length, GM, V6, Kit


There ya are

Part numbers for ARP main and head studs....

Main studs...
ATP4.400-1LB x8 these will be for main caps 1-4
ATP4.650-1LB x2 these are for the rear main cap where the oil pump mounts, they ned to be slitghly longer.
APW1316 x 10 these are the hardended steel flat washers
APN12-1 x 10 these are the 12 pt hardedned steel nuts.

head studs....
ATP4.650-1lb x 5 these are the shorter studs by the exhast ports retail price 6.93 each
ATP5.950-1 X 5 these are the custom length needed for the other studs retail price 10.50 each
APW1316N x 10 these are the washers retail price .75 each
APN12-2 x 10 these are the 12pt nuts retail price 1.73 each

hey just wondering which are the best roller rockers for performance on the 2200 and whether replacement of the springs pushrods lifters and studs are necessary in the process... later

I would say the Crane 1:6 rockers would be about the best performer. If you deside to upgrave the valvetrain be sure to do your home work or it will be headaches later on, god knows im having one trying to get my springs, keepers, and retainers right

wooops, just realized this sticky was for the rockers and not a full build guide

Phlatcav wrote:wooops, just realized this sticky was for the rockers and not a full build guide

I'm sure once we get a build guide done, Dave can integrate it with my chart and explanation, and rename the thread




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You should probably mention what cylinder needs to be at TDC when you start. Those of us that have done this beofre know, but for someone just doing it now, it would be helpful.

Cylinder 1 needs to be at TDC.




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Correction on ARP part numbers for head and main studs!!!

For the head studs the final part numbers are:

5 x ATP4.510L M11x1.5 STUD x 4.510"
5 x ATP5.950-1 Custom M11x1.5 STUD
10 x APN12-2 12 Point Nuts
10 x APW1316N Washers

For the Main Studs the Final Part numbers are:

10 x ATP4.400-1LB M11x1.5 & 7/16-20 STUD
10 x APN12-1 7/16-20 12PT Nut
10 x ARW1316 Washer 7/16ID 13/16OD Chamfe