Well I am finally starting to delve down into the 2200 and I was wondering if you guys would be able to estimate or guesstimate how much hp I will be running to the crank or to the wheels either or. I just like crank hp because its what production cars go by so at times it is more relevant for comparison.
As of june this is what I have done or will have done to my car:
Fully machined head 5 angle valve job, stage 2 port and polish, oversized stainless steel valves
Crane Cams 1.6 ratior roller rocker arms
Crane cams chromoly pushrods
Cometic head gasket n/a
JBP custom grind cam ( higher lift and longer duration than there stage 2 )
10:1 comp pistons
Eagle connecting rods
Pacesetter 4-1 header
59mm throttle body
2.5" catback exhaust w/highflow cat
Injen cold air intake
Underdrive superlight pullies for crank and alt
MSD coils
NGK IX iridium plugs
Magnecor 8.5mm wires
JBP PCM reflash or full standalone engine management

I want to know what kind of numbers I could expect to put down on all motor, then I was thinking of some nitrous for the 1/4, 100 shot or so.

Thanks for the help

150





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With the right tune youu might - might - see 170 at the crank, but when you put the car on a dyno it'll measure at the wheels, I'm guessing 150 at the wheels tops. But don't wast time on the reflash. You're better off tuning with a stand alone or a piggyback.


Opfer benotigt. Keine Erfahrung notwendig.

Victims needed. No experience necessary.

why not go 8.5:1 compression and then put a turbo on it. Then you'll see the power pickup. If you have a solid long block and turbo it you can run a lot more than 6 psi boost. I'd bet you could get around 300 hp maybe more from a fully forged rotating assembly, heads that will flow well (yours look like they will) and then a cam that would be matched for the turbo.

No matter how strong you build it, and even up the compression a bit like you're doing you are never going to get a ton of hp out of a naturally aspirated four cylinder without either nitrous or forced induction.

Now if you go the forced induction route you can make very respectable power for only having four cyliders. If you could put down 275 at the wheels in a car this light and get tires that would hook and a tranny w/ axles that can take the power. That would be a very fast street car.

If you do go the nitrous route you can run the higher compression. Just remember to always always always run premium fuel with that kind of compression.


Scott
2002 Audi S4, black
1996 Z24 auto, red

I was planning on doing nitrous, I want to have something different and I love the purge also the instant power is nice. I'm just not sure how much I want to spray, but hell that is a far time away anyway so I might as well not worry about it now.

Like was already said, make sure to run premium fuel, but even more importantly, make sure that fuel actually gets into the motor. It doesn't matter if you run an octane of 90 or 190, if it doesn't get into the chamber, it won't do anything to help you. Isay that because I saw no mention of fuel upgrades. Boost or bottle, you're going to need more fuel. Bigger injectors, pump, regulator, all of that needs to be considered or your motor will become a very large, very expensive boat anchor. Good luck, bro.


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I didnt do any fuel upgrades yet because I am still on n/a

True, but you've added a more aggressive cam, opened the head, added a bigger throttlebody, rockers, and on top of that you're running a lot higher compression. You still need to keep the fuel in check, even on an N/A build. You're getting a lot more air in there now, and you need to make sure you don't run lean.


Opfer benotigt. Keine Erfahrung notwendig.

Victims needed. No experience necessary.

yeah 150-160 at the wheels. with a 100 shot around 250 at the crank, maybe 225 at the wheels? that would be fast too....you dont need a turbo to run fast 1/4 miles.


AkA joe m.

Ricer ELIMINATOR!

blackNAcavie wrote:yeah 150-160 at the wheels. with a 100 shot around 250 at the crank, maybe 225 at the wheels? that would be fast too....you dont need a turbo to run fast 1/4 miles.

True, but turbo = always there w/sweet power gains (and cool BOV noise ), N20 = useful for a few seconds (w/ cool purge effect )... until you run out... bummer... now you get to be slow as hell until you get more...

It's like getting a lot of sleep and being full of healthy energy all day (like turbo), as opposed to getting no sleep drinking lots of coffee... you're totally wired for a few minutes then immediately lose your buzz and crash unless you keep getting more and more coffee (like N20)... bummer again. Personally, I don't believe in nitrous, but that's just me, and I'm not looking to start and aguement with all the die-hard N20 fans, just giving my educated opinion, so do what you want with that.

the 150-160BHP estimate seems reasonable. As for what you listed, that's a lot of work and money just get you on par with a significantly less modified 2.4's and Ecos (not including the nitrous of course), so I think you're looking more for boost to be more competitive. Still, that's a very good N/A build (with a couple changes) if you decide that's what you want.

Not sure which of the things you listed have already been done and which are yet to be done (it would be nice if you filled out your profile) so I'll just say what I would do with a 2200 to get serious power. This is basically what I'm looking to do to my LD9, with a few differences since it's not an OHV:

Valvetrain:
-Upgrade cam, but not as extreme as what you listed to avoid excessive overlap... better for FI
-Fairly agressive P&P head with 3/5-angle valve job
-Oversized SS valves w/ tougher springs
-Rocker arms + pushrods

Engine:
-Bore cylinders out maybe .02 nad have the block machined true
-8.5:1 Forged Pistons for .02 overbore
-Eagle con. rods
-Forged/lightened/balanced crank
-Replace bearings (main, rod, etc.)

Boost & Boost-related
-Bigper throttle body
-Custom 2.5-3" exhaust
-Piece together a custom Garrett / Mitusbishi turbocharger setup w/ a nice coated manifold
-Intercooler!!!!
-Injectors, pump, regulator, and all other gadgets, elctronics, & controllers that go with that.
-Make sure your cooling and oil systems are in good shape to handle boost and the motor mods
-Wideband!!!!
-Start on 5-6psi and dyno-tune that mother real good

Other:
-Make sure your brakes are in good shape LOL

Johnathan (Der Schlafwanderer) wrote:True, but you've added a more aggressive cam, opened the head, added a bigger throttlebody, rockers, and on top of that you're running a lot higher compression. You still need to keep the fuel in check, even on an N/A build. You're getting a lot more air in there now, and you need to make sure you don't run lean.

Very good point right there. The only point I'd like to add would be that even with increased air, the ECU may be able to compensate. NJHK, although he has an Ecotec, had some internal work done to his car. He purchased an SAFC to control fuel but it wound up being unnecessary; the ECU compensated for alot of the changes.



Blown.