First off I have a 97 sunfire 2.2 is it aluminum or iron block and head? I'd like to know what kind of quench distance you guys are running safely. Also what kind of quench distance could you expect to find stock, like stock head and gasket nothing ever touched. Anyone have any idea where TDC is, is the piston out of the hole or in the hole and how much? I was also wondering what makes the ecotec so much better than my engine, is that a pretty easy swap going to the ecotec? Thanx for any help
The 2.2L OHV is an iron block with an aluminum head.
I didn't write down the deck clearance before I rebuilt my motor(doh!). If my memory serves me right though, it was about .021". I sufaced the block .015", resulting in the .006" deckclearance I now have (should've just zero decked the block though). The stock head gasket is .045" compressed. Best bet is to keep the piston to head clearance at atleast .035" if you are using aftermarket rods (Eagle), and about .040" if using stock rods. Currently there are only copper head gaskets that can get that close, but you'll need to O-ring the block, for the best results.
If you a a cam degree kit, you can find the TDC easily. Let me know if you need instructions.
The Eco is a DOHC motor with 4 valves per cylinder. The air flow capabilities are much greater. No parts will interchage. There's alot of aftermarket and manufacture support for the Eco and is growing rapidly.
To do the swap you will need a doner engine, tranny, wiring harness and PCM. You will also need the fabricate the motor mounts. There are a number of posts dealing with this swap, just use the search button at the top.
Wait so after you sufaced your block your 0.006 in the hole still? I also forgot to ask what are the stock rods made out of? Hmm that ecotec sounds nice i really like that it has 4 valves per cylinder. wish someone made heads for my camaro with 4 valves then us LS1 guys would be able to run over 500whp NA pretty easy. They do make them for the older f-body though, the LT1 so i keep waiting. 1 question about the ecotec, anyone sell the wiring harness or do you need to pull everything from the doner car?
anything more than .040" of clearance is usless, you have to get less than that for the "quench" effect to happen. so that probably means domed pistons and all running some cool compression. and if you cant make 500hp from an LS1 there is something wrong... hahahaha
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** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
Matt Holmes wrote:Wait so after you sufaced your block your 0.006 in the hole still? I also forgot to ask what are the stock rods made out of? ............ 1 question about the ecotec, anyone sell the wiring harness or do you need to pull everything from the doner car?
Correct, I'm still .006" in the hole.
The stock rods are a one shot forged steel, not nearly as strong as the Eagle forgings. They good for a moderate N/A car thats still running the stock PCM with the 6000rpm limit. If you do stay with them Grind the stress risers(parting seam) from the beams, shoot peen them, resize them and balance them.
No one, that I know of, sells the a wiring harness, so you'ld have to get the harness from the doner car.
Manitoba- would a domed piston really help to create a shock wave through the combustion chamber? Thats why i want to lower the distance. I'm assuming it probably does since dished pistons really hurt this effect. Also nearly 500 whp with no forced induction and 1 intake and 1 exhaust valve with a displacement of 346 running pump gas is about maxed out. I'd like to see you make more than 500whp on a mustang dyno w/ an LS1. The engine needs to be bigger like lets say a 408 stroker or it needs 4 valves per cylinder to go over 500whp. You might be able to run a very larage cam like 250/250 but thats a lot more work fly cuting the pistons and most cams that big are meant for a bigger engine.
Madjack- I asked what they were made out of because I was wonder how much they would expand.
Matt, on the LS1 try 420hp @ 6000RPM 87 octane no nitrous or boost at the wheels
ran 11.80's in the 1/4 in a car with slicks bolted on thats all..
anyways yes a domed piston will help, however you'll have to have valve reliefs in the pistons, not sure if anything is out there for these cars like this so it will be a custom one off deal..
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** Flat Broke Racing Inc.**
