I wouldn't go with standard sized bearings unless you know your crank does not need a regrind. Get the regrind and get the shop to order the correct sized bearings.
I paid less then $600CDN for a crank grind/balance, balanced rotating assembly, align hone, overbore, cam bearing change, pin fit, ring gap, 3 angle, head decking, and prep wash.
Forgive me for not being on top of the 2.4s like I am the ECOTECs but I will say this...9:1 compression is low enough, I'd keep the stock sized head gasket.
Also, if you did get your cylinders bored, wouldn't you need your gaskets to be made to the new bore of the cylinder?
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
generally for .020" overbore you wouldn't need a new headgasket, its only 1/10th of an inch on each opposing side of the cylinder
stevefire wrote:sorry 1/100th of an inch
Ok thanks, i was always curious of that.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
LD9 Fury that's not necessarrily true because JBP may have had to turn the crank undersize in order to get clean round journals, so call them and ask them if the crank was turned or not. By the way I'm gathering the exact same parts as you for my turbo buildup and I'm going to just pay JBP's 86$ core charge along with the $250 charge for knife edging and lightening and not have to worry about sending them a crank. That's what the core charge is for once you pay that you're done, and if you send them a crank first then you don't pay the $86 core charge just pay for the knife edge and lightening.
Also TurboTechRacing.com has the LD9 Eagle rods on sale right now for $289.99, I just ordered mine, and in two weeks when I get paid I'm gonna order my crank.
What head are you going to use, make sure to use ARP head & main studs.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
one....... if going for High HP.... dont grind the crank down..... makes it weaker (just what I have been told over the years of working on these engines.... both the quad 4 and twin cam)
two..... if you dont have spun bearings, more then likely you wont need oversized bearings. The bearings are made of softer meterial then the crank and block, so all the wearing done should be in them, not the crank and block. But its always best to check bearing clearences when installing them (which is REALY easy to do).
three..... most machine shops dont work on cars, they only work on engines/transmissions. More then likely you will have to pull your own engine and bring it to them.
four...... order standered bearings, right before you need them..... that way if it turns out you need oversized (which I doubt) you can still return them..... NAPA carries the Clevite bearings.
and five..... if not going for huge power, go with the N/A Cometic Gasket..... should put you at about 9.2:! compression I believe (cant say for sure, cause dont have the measurments of your pistons) which is fine for boost. I have 9.4:1 in my current setup (9.5:1 pistons, .074" head gasket, head shaved .010")........
hope some of that helps.
oh yea..... my Cometic head gasket is EXACTLY the same diameter as my cylinders, and I bored mine .040" over.....
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
turning the crank down .010" you would think that it'd hardly be weakened at all, its only .010". however I do understand your point
Thanks LD9 Fury I haven't been on their site in awhile and that's good info to know but still won't deter me because I have another complete core engine from a 99 Malibu that a friend is giving me for $50. That will give me the crank I need for the core, I just wish some of these friggin crank companies like Scat and egale etc would build us a 4340 forged crank then we wouldn't have to go through this.
2000 Z24 5spd header & catback for now.
for the jvp crank, i called them before christmas and wanted a knife edge crank.
they told me to send them my crank and would do the work to the crank i send them, but as i cant have my car down for too much time, i sended them a junkyard crank. when they received the crank, they told me it was no good and has to pay 289$ JUST FOR FIXING THE CRANK, then pay another 290$ to get it knife edge... i said srcew that!!!! then they ask me 40$ for having checked the crank for me, and be told its no good!!!!!!
i thought that if it was no good i could probably just buy a core from them which would have been 89$.... i guess no!!!!!
i finally called around and find a local place that charge 70$ for polishing the crank!
Dale Young wrote:Also TurboTechRacing.com has the LD9 Eagle rods on sale right now for $289.99, I just ordered mine, and in two weeks when I get paid I'm gonna order my crank.
What head are you going to use, make sure to use ARP head & main studs.
those rods are ECOTEC only and there's only one set remaining
LD9 Fury wrote:I'm don't think I'm going for crazy-high HP, just looking for maybe 230-250 @ crank turbocharged if I can pull it off. But you never know, everyone says boost is addicting so there's no telling where my HP will be once all is said and done
HAHAHA yeah right!
Trust me, when you have a fully rebuilt motor that can handle probably more than you'd be able to handle on street tires, you're not going to be just looking for "mid 200s crank". That would be a total waste.
So in other words...
Build Motor, Add Boost & TURN IT UP!
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
250 crank? thats only about what 225ish wheels? i say go for about 250 whp, you gotta turbo man, turn that boost up, im goin for about 250whp in my gm charged and nitroused rebuilt engine.
LD9 Fury! wrote:NJHK (The Turbo Negro) wrote:LD9 Fury wrote:I'm don't think I'm going for crazy-high HP, just looking for maybe 230-250 @ crank turbocharged if I can pull it off. But you never know, everyone says boost is addicting so there's no telling where my HP will be once all is said and done
HAHAHA yeah right!
Trust me, when you have a fully rebuilt motor that can handle probably more than you'd be able to handle on street tires, you're not going to be just looking for "mid 200s crank". That would be a total waste.
So in other words...
Build Motor, Add Boost & TURN IT UP!
BOOSTED wrote:250 crank? thats only about what 225ish wheels? i say go for about 250 whp, you gotta turbo man, turn that boost up, im goin for about 250whp in my gm charged and nitroused rebuilt engine.
LOL great point guys. Now I'm really getting enthusiastic 
I'm sure my engine project will go fine no matter what I have to do, and it should allow me to run some fairly intense power... I'm more worried about this retarded-ass Isuzu 5-spd tranny taking a giant crap as soon as I feed lots of power.
It's times like this you wish you had the wonderful 4T40E 4-speed transmission, huh?
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
Good info on here.. Ill be going with the stock crank size but Im going to try to get it forged. I also have a set up 'standard' rod and main bearings.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
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WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ