After installing my a/f gauge and seeing the results, I came here to read up on what I did wrong. It became obvious that I did install it correctly and that the "light show" is normal.

So I got to thinking, if someone knew what type of signal was being sent from the sensor you could build a module to average the high and low values from the sensor. Then output that average to the gauge, providing a more stable result.

Obviously this isnt for tuning, as oh so many have stated. This would be for the people like myself who have the a/f gauge and are not impressed by the light show. Quite honestly If I could send a signal at the gauge that kept the gauge in one place I would do that.

Anyone know the feasibility of something like this?

Then what would be the point of having the gauge??

Just put a resistor on the signal lead and ground it. With the right resistor, I think you can get the result you want. It's stupid though.

The light show is telling you what the sensor is outputting. I'm not sure whether the voltage or the resistance changes on the sensor to give it's output, but it changes based on the oxygen level of your exhaust. The reason it's flipping back and forth all the time is because your engine is always adjusting the fuel.

The gauge becomes useful if something is wrong. If you're off the throttle and engine braking, the gauge will show you a steady lean condition. If it doesn't, then something is wrong. If you're at wide open throttle, or generally any time you're accelerating at more than just a leisurely pace, the gauge will show a steady rich signal. If it doesn't, then something is very wrong and you could be able to wreck your engine. If you're ever in that situation, be sure to let off the gas right away and limp to somewhere you can figure out what the problem is.

For general cruising, it should be flipping back and forth as the computer constantly adjusts.

If you don't want it to do all this... then take it out of your car.

I fully understand why the gauge acts as it does. There were plently of posts with that information.

I am fairly certain that if you could have a average value of the high and low signals sent to the sensor instead of the values as they change you could still use the gauge as intended. This was more the point of my post than the getting it to display a constant value.

I am not willing to simply take it out of the car. I am hoping that someone can shed some light on comparing the values electronically and out putting an average. Unfortuantly its been too many years since my electronics classes for me to figure this out on my own.

Perhaps slowing down the sample rate of the gauge would be effective.

I think what you're looking for is a wide band gauge. They've got a much bigger range of values so the reading tends to be more steady.

I know a wide band would do exaclty what I want. I wont spend that kind of money for a gauge on my car either. Still does not address my question though.

you prob could , but it would be kinda worthless

also from what i remember there was a company that was selling modded narrow widebands , that read slower


my thoughts are enjoy the light show and leave it be

or go wide band

Don Richardson wrote:I know a wide band would do exaclty what I want. I wont spend that kind of money for a gauge on my car either. Still does not address my question though.

Well truly you can get a wideband O2 sensor for the same price as a factory replacement Os sensors for our cars. Some VW have them stock, and you can hook up your gauge to it (so I'm told).

I think you are missing what the others were trying to say. The air/fuel gauge is not a very good tuning tool, but it can give you a idea on certain things. To do what you are wanting I believe would get rid of the little bit of usefullness the gauge gas. So why bother.



FU Tuning

Just look at your L trims.


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Yea, ummmm. I used to have a J-body...

It only reads between 0 and 1 volt so not much of a range there.

As stated before a wideband will read 0-5 volts.

If you wanted it to always display lean you could give the signal lead .050 - .249 volts, stoichiometric .250 - .745 volts, rich .750 - 1+ volts.

Below is a link to the website that modifies the gauges for a more steady reading but they will only read at WOT (wide open throttle) with this modification done.

Gadget Seller





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I use my narrow band autometer one way, IF the guage does not read rich at WOT then something is not right . That would be a bit helpfull when spraying cuz if the gauge comes out fo "rich" you might want to let off

now someone please make me feel stupid